December 2015

lucklesspedestrian

Hi

It's time to retire the Mondeo (2.0 TDCi) which at 8 years old and 120K miles is probably getting to 'that' point.... Read more

Oli rag

I'd definitely pick the civic, the peugeot is too much of a shot in the dark as a long term keeper. It all boils down to what is more important to YOU, a bit less room in the back and total reliability or potentially ruinous bills and frustration on the other hand. Best of luck with your choice.

scot22

I have seen a car I like on the Evans Halshaw website. It would need to be brought 'closer to me' by the £200 deposit scheme.

All I have ever read about the Dealership has been negative. Is that because generally people are quicker to complain than praise ?... Read more

MCM57

I bought a 2017 Fiesta from EH about 18 months ago, price was fair, and moved from Lancashire to Ipswich within 3 days. Had a couple of issues with the car, but all fixed under warranty at the local Ford dealer

Ed_Reid

Hi, for about the last 12-15 Months my 508 Sw has had a weird issue, intermittent stalling when stopping at traffic light the rev counter gives a small blip and then the engine just dies. No faults are showed on the display no warning lights etc., Car restarts first turn of the key and stalls again unless I give it some revs and hold it above 1000rpm, idle does sit at 900 cold or about 750 hot. It is totally random when it will do it, but if it does it once it will do it 4 or 5 times, restart fine on the key. just Weird, I have had a full service done inc fuel filter still does it. The car is a 2012 508 Sw Active 2.0 Hdi. My Vin is VF38ERHF8CL033315

I have bought the download tool with pp2000/diagbox checked. couple of codes store. Maybe some one can explain the last one.

B1825: Oil level information fault. Level too low (now top up to max mark on dip stick was in-between min and max)
B1418: Fault in status of seat belt fastening information for determining the presence of the driver. (I was now wearing the seat belt at the time)
B1816: Fault loss of the hybrid drive train status information (Then again its not a hybrid)

U1F00: Fault event not stored in the fault log.

I cleared 4 codes which where in it. Changed the filters again and starting using BP ultimate Diesel and it was fine for a while. You could still see the revs drop every now and again but the computer would catch it. but this morning it stalled about 6 times in a row. the only code stored is in the BSI module code is B162C 12 Fault Accessories Positive Relay Control & Status not coherent. If you clear it and retest (with out starting the engine ) code stays cleared same with starting and stopping the engine on the key. but if you let it stall/cut out the same error code appears again.

After doing some google research, I came across some C5 owners (same engine) who were having stalling issues, like mine no engine management lights/weird error codes etc..Mines only had (BSI or body system codes apart from the U1F00 code still don't know what that is) Turned out for some of them, the air control units were dirty (also called by some sites and you tube the throttle body), So I stripped mine off, really easy 2 electrical connection, two T30 screws one T30 that you don't take right out and disconnect the air duct and a small vacuum tube. Inside my air control unit was very dirty. thickly coated in oil and dirt/carbon from the EGR and Breather tubes. The Air Temp Sensor you could not even see due to the Grime. So I cleaned everything out and reassembled. Used the Peugeot Planet tool to reset everything and did the actuator tests etc.. Car is running fine at the moment but only time will tell..

I did notice when its at idle every 30 secs or so you can hear and feel the air flap open and close does this exactly 5 times in a row like open close wait a sec open close wait a sec 5 times then idles perfect for approx. 30 secs then does the 5 open close cycle again. suspect this is the EGR Valve

Left the car at idle for about 30 with the Peugeot planet connect. No issues.

guess what still stalling. Unplugged each sensor on the air side from maf right up to air pressure sensor one at a time. Each one gave a P???? error code and made no difference. so cleared codes, unplugged EGR valve plug again no difference. and again cleared the codes. HELP...

Regards
Ed. Read more

Michael Tarpey

OP did you get this sorted, if so, what was the issue

Avant

I've had my eye on the BMW 2.0 petrol engine in a 2-series Active Tourer, and this week at last have had a test drive. The dealers seem far keener to sell diesels, but after five noisy diesel cars in a row I love my current petrol Octavia vRS, and I really don't want another diesel.

The signs were very good in the automatic 220i I tried: the transmission didn't seem to sap the performance, and the strong torque that is such a feature of the Octavia seemed to be there too, although a 225i might be even better. And it was beautifully quiet and refined.... Read more

meldrew

We have two 2.0i BMWs in our household 90k and 30k miles. both engines are a joy to drive and would certainly not want the potential extra cost of a high tech diesel.

bassplayer88

Bought this car on wednesday 2nd. 81,000 miles, 1 owner. Had been serviced by dealer prior to sale. 1 month warranty.

Seemed to be running lovely and I clocked up about 200 miles or so till friday night when the oil light came on. Luckily I was close (300yrd) from my destination so I didnt drive it for long after this.... Read more

galileo

My brothers Seat Ibiza was suffering this same phenomenon, unfortunately the problem is down to the vw engineers when the 3 cylinder 1.2 engine was designed, most cars nearly all have both a cam breather as well as a crankcase breather, all routed through a PCV system (positive crankcase ventilation) this is positive crankcase and cam cover mechanical pressure caused by build up and blow by, this vents and is drawn into the air intake recycling it via a valve, the 1.2 has a cam cover breather but does not have a crank breather, I’ve looked extensively.. this causes a major problem, at low speed the problem is not so severe but at higher revs the pressure cannot vent, the pressure will then escape one of a few ways, out of leaks in the sump gasket or seals or pushed up past the pistons taking oil with it burning it in the combustion chamber, fully synthetic oil doesn’t visually smoke very much so goes largely unnoticed, these engines all suffer with oil loss symtoms but VW won’t ever admit why, this is why.. To solve the issue I have removed the dipstick and fitted a pipe onto it teed into the cam cover ventilation system, to test pull the dip stick out and start the car, when you turn off the engine you will hear the gurgle of pressure equalising. Not one of VW’s most amazing technically designed marvels this engine. Jim

So the return oilways from the cam cover to the sump don't let crankcase blowby up into the cam cover to be vented? Or does the blowby force oil from the camshaft out of the cam vent instead of letting it drain to the sump?

jeff80

Can I drive a SORN vehicle on trade plates? Read more

pd

You can't use trade plates on a car which is permanently in your posession unless you are a manufacturer.

However, if you are a trader who has owned a car or maybe been a demo and you SORN it with the intention of selling it then it is no longer a car which is intended to be in your permanent posession and you can then use them strictly for trade related activities related to that sale....

notquiteclueless

Last year, my 2009 Note's heater blower started only working occasionally. The problem turned out to be the blower, rather than the resistor, and it was replaced with a recon. The new one has stopped 18 months on, and when the garage examined it they found a plug (presumably the one into the resistor pack) had come out. The replaced it, and it worked for one week before stopping again.

I assume the same thing has happened again. Does anyone have any idea why, and what repair might be needed? Paid a hefty diagnostic fee for very little, so keen to be a little clued up before pursuing.... Read more

elekie&a/c doctor

It depends what heater system is installed.If it is similar to a Clio or a Micra (very possible),then the resistor is behind the glove box.Not too difficult to access.About an hour labour.

Haydn24

Recently I've started hearing this noise that only occurs at certain revs/speed, usually in 3rd/4th gear around 20-30mph, and generally becomes more noticeable the more I push the throttle. But generally after a couple of seconds it disappears.

Hard to determine where it's coming from though. From where I'm sitting it sounds like it's driver's side and underneath, but it could be the engine, I don't know. I've done a bit of research and the closest thing I can think of is engine pinking (whatever you call it). There's no other issues with it as far as I can tell (no lack of power etc).... Read more

1litregolfeater

Now I think about it, I bet the previous owner never changed the oil!

"the last owner had it from 2003 until last year and only did 33k in it"...

Evo_101

I have been having some on going issues with my Volvo powered by the new 2.0l D4.

It's pretty lengthy but I will try to keep it short.

I bought my Volvo V40 last year and received it in October, I was aware there had been issues with the egr through this website though this was with the XC60 as it was the first to recieve this new engine. These reports also seemed to imply Volvo had a fix.

So after 8 months (June) and 11000 miles my issues started to happen with engine management light then after a few days reduced performance, my dealer was unhelpful and gave me a 2 week lead time before he could look at it.

So I contacted Volvo assist to attend my vehicle at my home, which they did within an hour, and after 20minutes diagnosed the egr as at fault and booked it in with my prefered local dealer (Not the dealer I purchased from) the next day with a hire car arranged for me to use as a courtesy car.
It took three days to repair my car when I went to collect it I was told by the service manager that my egr was fine and in actual fact it was my oil level to high, I slight comment about how I should be more careful topping up oil, before I cut him off and explained I did not top up my oil.
He had no explanation for the high oil level, obviously I as annoyed that the service technician did not call me to investigate. Anyway I had a trip organised that weekend to accepted the car back and drove the 30 minutes 20 miles back home.

I arrived home to a low oil light (it has recently transpired my oil level was fine and they actually removed to much) slightly annoyed I called for Volvo assist to attend again, promptly he arrived tested my car and confirmed it was to low, he proceeded to top up a process that took more than an hour of running testing and topping up. Eventually he told me all was fine but it took 1.5 litres to get the oil gauge half way.

So I set of on my trip to Birmingham some 90 miles with my wife in the pouring rain, about half way it became hard to clear my windscreen not thinking any ting of it other than contamination from passing traffic I pushed on, about 20miles out my engine light came on again. I completed my journey said hello to the family, went out to check my car via electronic dipstick and had an overfill message.
At that point I popped the bonnet and understood why I struggled to clear the windscreen, oil had forced its way past the filler cap sprayed inside the engine bay and up the windscreen, it was not dramatic more a fine mist and small splatter.
So again call to Volvo assist and recovery to the local dealer, which also happened to be the purchasing dealer, now I tried hard to reject the vehicle on grounds of there is no way to know if permanent damage has been caused by the overfill, but after a weekend of diagnostics and testing they fitted a new egr valve and cooler plug new software and said my car is fine and should now perform as intended.

I had also been in contact with Volvo UK as intially I wanted an extended warranty as a show of good faith from Volvo that my car would be fine. They refused, although provided me with written assurance that they would take into account this episode outside of warranty period.
I accepted the car back in good faith providing the assurances given by Volvo UK and my dealer that my car "will" perform normally and not fail me again after this latest egr valve,cooler and software update.

Well 4 months and 5000miles and my egr has has blocked again, went straight to Volvo assist this time, they promptly arrived only this time looked genuine Volvo and not a 3rd party contractor, after 10 minutes he cheerfully told me it's my egr nothing to worry about, gave me a long talk on the new updated design software etc that completely resolves all issues and makes it 100 percent reliable.
"Just like the last one installed a few months ago?" I asked him, his body language instantly changed he looked uncomfortable could not make eye contact with me, eventually he admitted they are working hard to fix the issue but as yet have no definitive fix and cannot understand why they are failing.

So off it went last week for a new cooler (the 4th revision this year perhaps and my 3rd now) the egr valve is the latest do they just cleaned that up and new software.


Okay sorry for the long winded post hope your with me. Read more

focussed

It's happened before with Volvo products. Don't ask me how I know.

Why not? Would you have to kill us? (just asking...)...

Sue207

Would be grateful for any advice on this problem, put a litre of top up oil in my car as selected by member of staff in halfords. After one short journey had a top end rattle in the engine. Manager at Halfords checked it over, didn't think it connected to the top up oil and suggested going to my garage, who said it needed a new engine! I sought a second opinion who said their is a small injector or pump to fire the oil to the top of the engine and the wrong oil will seize it hence the rattle, tho can't be sure until he get the car and checks. He would change the timing chain etc at the same time as well as the damaged part. Does this ring any bells with anyone? Oil recommended was 0W-40 synthetic by Mobile which I have never used usually get 5W-30. Oil is not overfilled, car running as normal apart from the loud rattle, oil pressure etc okay. Engine is the VW/Seat one with timing chain. Admit it is a long time since it was serviced well over two years but still nowhere near service based on millage. Thanks Read more

Gibbo_Wirral

Admit it is a long time since it was serviced well over two years but still nowhere near service based on millage. Thanks

Make sure you read the intervals correctly. Its generally two years or 20,000 miles, but more importantly - whichever comes first.