December 2016
hello.
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Can anyone explain the if any problems can arise by using different viscosity oils.
The car neded a top up and for reasons too long to explain, I checked with two Audi dealers which oil to use and one said Castrol Edge 5W/40 and the other said Shell Helix Ultra 5W/30.... Read more
Try the "driver's manual";5W/20 and has stated it for at least three years.Yes,I know 5W/30 is stated elsewhere-my dealer always tells me I should use 5W/30 till I show him the manual.
Don't have a drivers manual since I don't currently own a Ford....
My Honda Civic 2006 - found the Boot was locked and couldn't open it with my remote - having been able to open it on the inside (had to open it from boot release on inside of boot lid) i sprayed WD40 on it... but still wouldn't open via remote.
Found a quick fix: start engine and open/close drivers door lock a couple of times.... Read more
Check this out, it may help, appears to be a common fault years ago.
http://www.civinfo.com/forum/bugs-faults-irritations/10910-boot-lock-stuck.html ...
Hi all
I have posted previously regarding my Hyundai i40 and the issues I was having with the clutch.
My last post on this was in February 2015 when a modification was made to this as I had been having problems. I have learned since then, that the clutch can be an issue with this car.
All has been well since my last post, until last week when this failed completely. The car was only serviced the week previous to this at 80,000 miles, most of which has been motorway driving. The car will be three years old next February.
I have had many cars over the years, all from new, and most have covered this mileage and more, with no problems with the clutch whatsoever.
Can't help but say I am disappointed, shame really, as I feel this has spoilt what has otherwise been a good car. Read more
We began experiencing clutch judder on our 2012 i20 when it was 2 years 9 months old. Had it booked into the dealer, and an oil seal was leaking. Clutch was replaced with a modified clutch and oil seal replaced - all under warranty.
Hi, I'm looking for some advice about a issue I had with my auxiliary belt. So a couple of weeks ago my auxiliary belt snapped. My car has only done 38000 miles and according to Ford engineer and the service book the belt should last 100000 miles or 96 months. I got the car recovered to a Ford garage and the issue was investigated and no fault could be found and a new belt was fitted.
I raised the issue with Ford UK, I sent images of the belt which shows no wear and tear it has just torn in half and asked for compensation. I explained that I felt the belt wasn't fit for purpose and that I expected the belt to last nearer the 100000 miles. The engineer at Ford said that he had never seen a belt tear like it had. Ford won't compensate me at all said the car is outside of warranty (5 years old) and said that the 100000 mile is a guide and they can snap at any time. ... Read more
I've traded hundreds over the same timespan, I'm just listing my personal motors. I never buy at auction. Aside from fleet disposal the auctions are full of junk no one else wanted. No dealer would send a perfectly serviceable fault free car through the ring, they'd sell it themselves for a far greater return unless it's too old for them then the fact there's no ability to test the car before committing raises the risk beyond acceptance. Even main dealers are holding on to cars that are more than 10-12yrs old now if they're decent.
Both as a trader and personally i mostly buy privately often via word of mouth with the only three occasions in the last 12yrs I've bought from a dealer were the CRV and Polo we currently have and both were reluctant purchases on my part plus a Caddy van I got cheap as an ex NHS fleet disposal. Management had commanded a need for newer and safer but shopping around did secure the Polo at trade money and the CRV at huge discount.
We do always keep a third cheap runner for local running and abandoning at the station/pub and I get a buzz from running it depreciation free. The current 55plate Mazda 3 has proven faultless and will still be worth more than I paid for it in a year without much effort.
Your suggestion that oil doesn't need to be changed annually on an old low value car would be fair enough (though it's cheap to do so why scrimp) if you weren't on here regularly advocating people with younger more complex and valuable cars did the same. They'd risk expensive repairs and higher depreciation as a result you should think again about giving this advice to people who come on here looking for help because they maybe have little mechanical knowledge. Oil does deteriorate as it ages as do rubber components such as tyres and timing belts.
I've often bought cars from elderly owners in the past, some still running the origional tyres after more than ten years and you can see the cracks clear as day. In fact the tyres on a Vauxhall Omega I was offered last year were literally crumbling. Not a negative in my mind, it simply backs up the low mileage but no way I'd run it on crumbling rubber. Same goes for the engine.
What do you guys think of BMW F30 316i? is the engine powerful enough? bearing in mind that I'm not the kind of driver that tends to push the car towards its limits really. Just for normal town driving and on motorways, do you feel that your car is crippled when overtaking with the heat or AC on for example?
Should I consider 316i or completely avoid it?... Read more
Out of interest, BMW_fan, what sort of budget are you looking at, and roughly where are you in the country ?
I know of a car for sale through a owner's forum - it's a 2012/62 328i F31 but loaded with spec, and (I think) pretty decently priced.
2005 307 SW estate, 1.6 16v petrol.
Turns over but won't start.... Read more
A cheap scan tool is a bad decision for a Mk1 307, for the simple fact they've given out incorrect information, don't pick up all faults, cannot display live data or check components.
I've done some tests with various scanners on my car with a known EGR, diesel heater sensor, and glow plug faults and only Peugeot Planet picked up these fault codes and read the live data to show that the parts were indeed faulty. ...
Hi,
I'm having trouble with my corsa and hoping someone has been through something similar or can help in anyway through their experience and opinion.
I've had the car 6 months, it's only 3 years old, 33k miles on the clock,it was serviced on April 2016 and I recently had an MOT in September. Obviously it being a 1 litre there's literally no power etc but at the weekend I was parked on a slight hill facing downwards and I had it reverse once parked. When I started the car I didn't put my foot on the cluch and it stalled. When I started the engine I instantly knew something was wrong. It shuddered once it started and when I pushed the accelerator I heard a slight whirring noise. I had to drive he car back from Dundee to Glasgow and it literally just got there. Wouldn't get passed 60/70 just felt completely
Different. The next day it wouldn't start.
Breakdown came out tested battery etc didn't really know what was wrong with it. He did say something about the timing chain and it could be choked/missed a tooth? Took it to a garage and they changed the coil pack, spark plugs and camshaft sensor. That didn't fix the issue and they put my old parts back in (I thought I had an exetended warranty but it ran out last week)
So went to pick my car up and get the keys to get it moved back home and the guy said it could be the ecu or timing chain. The guy that came out to take it back home did a diagnosis and nothing was showing, the ecu was showing as fine. He also reckons it's skipped a tooth or something and reckons it's needs a new timing chain or if not that new head cylinder.
I've read a few forums on the internet and it could be a list of things, I just think if the car was running fine before I stalled it, wouldn't it be more likey be a wiring or pump issue rather than replacing the timing chain?
I know literally nothing about cars, but just having the car 6 months and then something as big as this going wrong because I stalled the car seems a little much for me. If it's correct fair enough.
Does anyone else have any ideas before I get the timing chain replaced?
Thanks for any feedback. Read more
Hi I know this is old but I need help I recently fitted a new chain and gears, when I checked the timing all seemed ok but when I had finished I tried to start the car and at first it was having none of it but eventually after a few turns of the key it runs with no codes present. After turning the car off it still doesn’t want to start any help would be really appreciated.
Hi All
Wondering if any of you out there can help identify the possible cause with a noise I get when starting my 2006 Focus 1.6 TDCI.... Read more
And thanks for the update, an example to those who never return once advice has been given to say whether any of it worked.
The dreaded mis fire on cylinder 3 1.2 polo engine rears its head again, I'm against replacing the head completly however Iam considering having it taken off replacing the valves and refitting just to get another year or two out of the car. I have been quoted £350 plus parts so I'm assuming around the £450 mark I don't want to spend any more than £500 in total do you think changing just the valves will do the trick?
Thanks for looking and all advice welcomed
Geoff Read more
Hi
Left this decision until now ( new year ) still not sure if all the expenditure of parts plus the labour cheap I know is worth spending on a 54 played car, even a replacement head would still need an element of new parts inc timing chain etc.
I'm thinking just to continue running it around local until I get fed up and scrap it.
Thanks for all your advice on this much appreciated,
Geoff
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No, they must settle without delay. I'd call and ask them to do so immediately or you'll be taking it up with trading standards. The last thing any dodgy dealer like this wants is a couple of TSO's having an excuse to drop by for a visit. Keep it polite but firm and don't let them fob you off, they don't have the right to hold off on payment.
What they're attempting to do is simply hold on to the money as long as possible but at the end of the day they can't sell the car on with outstanding finance but might be hoping to have it sold on paper before paying for it... money for nothing.