April 2013
Hi,... Read more
A definative answer please, will an inopperative air bag light fail the MOT test? I've asked two MOT testers in the last 12 hours, one said a lit light OR a missing light (bulb taken out) is a fail, the other said a lit light is a fail but a missing light is an advisory only. Does that mean I can take the bulb out and pass the MOT with an advisory? Thanks Read more
The airbag light is only a fail after March, up till now it's just an advisory, so I'd get your car in for MOT before March then you have a whole 12 months to sort it!
And according to the rules the airbag light must briefly illuminate (when it does the system check) and then go out, If it doesn't come on at all and it's present or it comes on and stays on then it's a fail....
Hi, I have a ticking noise coming from my engine especially when cold but gets less as it warms up. Further there are terrible fumes in the car if the heater blower is switched on and I am not moving.
I have an idea it could be an injector seal or seals failing (111,000 miles).... Read more
Hi did you ever find out what the problem was? I have a 1.4 diesel mazda 2 (ford diesel engine) just had the injector seals replaced & now the car seems to have lost all performance as if the turbo is not kicking in.
Sorry for the long post - I'm trying to solve a problem that has been on-going for more than 2 years and has not been solved by 3 garages in different parts of Britain! Any help appreciated. Nothing I can find on various forums has answered the problem.
2 years ago my daughter's 206 became difficult to put into gear. A new clutch was fitted and the problem seemed to be solved. The clutch bearing had disintegrated but the whole clutch was changed to save going back in to replace the clutch at a later date. The mechanic who fitted the clutch checked the auto adjust clutch cable and said it was fully serviceable.
Within a year, the same problem arose - couldn't get the car into gear so the AA towed the car to a garage in Uxbridge who replaced the clutch cable - problem seemed to be solved.
A month or so ago (a year after the clutch cable had last been replaced) the same problem arose - breakdown service towed the car to a garage in Glasgow who replaced the clutch, guide, fork and clutch cable. Problem seemed to be solved but as she drove the car from Glasgow to my home in Hereford, the problem came back. She managed to get the car onto my driveway where it has sat for the past few weeks.
The gear linkages seemed to be a bit loose so I bought a new set and put them on - no improvement. I took every part of the gear linkage system from the gear stick to the gear box apart, cleaned the joints, added lots of new grease - the gear stick is much less floppy, but it can still be difficult to get into gear. I bought another clutch cable from the local Peugeot dealer (which was different to the one the Glasgow mechanic had put on) and put that on the car - no difference.
It is difficult (sometimes impossible) to select some gears - it doesn't seem to make any difference if the engine is running or not. With the engine not running - clutch up or down doesn't make any difference. I'm a reasonably competent DIY mechanic and I'm reluctant to take it to another mechanic who will blame the last 3 and replace all of the new parts (again).
To me the problem seems to logically lie with the gear box - the only part of the chain that has not been changed since the problem started, but several people, including those I have bought parts from say this is unlikely to be the cause.
Apart from this problem this is a nice 206 that the original owner bought with all bells and whistles. It's too nice a car to scrap, and I'd like to get it back on the road soon if possible. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Read more
I'm new here. Hello to everyone.
Sorry to hear of the problem you've had. I wonder if this has come too late for you....
Hi,
My car has a bad fuel pump and I dont want to pay Ford for a new fuel pump. Can anyone tell me what part number I need for a replacement part or have any pictures of the one I need? Does this car need one for inside the tank?... Read more
The Ford Focus TDCI fuel pump runs off the timing chains that are connected to the crankshaft! I've replaced several of these units and take a good two days, parts needed for this replacement are Fuel Pump, Water Pump ( be naughty not to replace), Fuel pump oil seal, oil pump seal and front crankshaft seal, the new pump does not need to be coded in to the car as this is done via the electronis injectors. The problem you may experience; damage to the injectors especially if you have metal fragments in the filter. These will cost approx £500 to have rebuilt, on top of the £800 - £900 for the pump and seals.
It will be hard to find a second hand engine with all of these parts on them as they are well sought after....
This "Engine Systems Fault" has come up on my Focus and it lost power, on investigation a fault code P0380 came up with my local garage which indicated a glow plug or related fault.
I then got a set of glow plugs and a glow plug relay, part number 1 252 609, which today I tried to fit, well I tried to find the relay first, thinking it would be easier to do that than tackle the glow plugs, was told it was behind the ns headlight and inner arch, but i couldn't find it, the Ford dealers I phoned did try to help but said it was there as well.... Read more
Hi,
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Why do people still buy Renault Meganes my daughter purchased a 58 reg with 46000 miles on the clock she got it home day after cd player packed up garage sourced her another one 4 months later drivers side window packs up a month after that passenger window packs up Renault say they will pay up to 70% of the cost but she will still have to pay £150 now both headlights have gone and a brake light , i suppose she should be glad it still starts well i'm glad thats off my chest when she can get rid of this motor i know what she won't be looking to buy . Read more
Glenn - welcome to the forum, but if you really want to cheer us up please put some paragraphs in next time you post.
Hi,
I am new to this and as a ford owner so please stay with me!!
I have recently purchased a ford S Max on a 56 plate (2.0 TDCI) and it has just started with a rough start and white smoke. I have noticed on a cold day it's harder to start, it's rough and has white smoke for a longer (2-3 mins) period than when warmer like today when it started on first turn and was rough and white smoke for circa 1 min. On all occasions, the rough idling stops first and then the white smoke and once this has happened the car runs absolutely fine with no pulling/jerking. The water levels are not moving, oil is clean and doesn't over heat. The engine does sound louder until it has warmed also.
Any ideas/pointer would be gratefully received. Read more
You stated that you had just bought this car, was it from a dealer or private. If from a dealer in the last 6 months it's time to take it back. This could become expensive if it turns out to be a bent conrod or the head has to come off.
Hello there, any helpful ideas are gratefully appreciated.
Bought this car just over a year ago, 1 previous company driver, little over 80k at the time with full Ford service history, showing average MPG of just under 50mpg back then.... Read more
Dirty camshaft position sensor , cleaned and worked on Mazda 3 with the same 1.6 engine
i asked a brakedown recovery mechanic on 22/04/13 when the best time to change the timing belt was, as ford recommend 100,000 miles or ten years. His reply was, he would recommend changing at around 80,000 miles, but he thought that all fiestas from 2002 onwards did not have a cambelt anymore, they were chain driven? is this the case, or do they still have cambelts. thanks to everyone out there who can help me with dillema. Read more
Recent Ford engines get very confusing since Ford have rebranded older engines as Duratecs for marketing reasons.
The original Zetec in 1600, 1800 and 2000 as used in the Mondeo from inception to about 2000 were all belt driven....
True Japanese engines do not have timing chain issues at all. Japanese cars made in Japan do not have significant engineering or design issues.
Japanese cars made from Japanese components such as some Honda Accords for instance 'manufactured' in a European factory at some time in the past are not the same as the Japanese cars described above....