August 2009
I am in the market to by a new car but put off by ther fact that most of the big manufacturera are not supplying a spare wheel but instead some sort of emergency kit for making a temporary repair.
My question is, once this temporary repair is made, does this make the tyre useless or can it be repaired in the normal manner.
Signed
Confused ? Read more
My Vectra 2.0dti estate (2002) recently developed this problem. When the engine is hot and you slow down or stop (eg traffic lights, junction, traffic, etc) the engine management light comes on - whilst on there is a degree of power loss. Once I'm up to 3rd or 4th gear, the light goes out, and power returns.
I've had the car 4 years and the light has always come on when first starting from cold, but always went out after a few seconds. I thought this was normal behaviour.
But this recent behaviour is definitely not normal.
I did 1000 miles last week, around Scotland and the light came on every time I stopped or slowed.
Yesterday I took it to a local garage, to hook up to his computer. He said it gave 2 fault readings. One was the glow plugs and the other he described as 'catastrophic'. But did not know the cause, so he didn't charge me.
I am driving to London tomorrow (from Hull) and ideally would like to fix it myself today if I get some sound advice - that's if it's just something that needs cleaning???
Any advice greatly appreciated. Read more
glad that you fixed it ,you could edit the post to say fixed, its always worth doing a search before posting,Regards TB
Hi,
I have a 1999 Ford Focus with a central locking problem.
If I press the "lock" button on the key fob - all doors will attempt to lock, but then ping open again (lock and then unlock). And if I press the unlock button on the key fob, only the driver's door unlocks opens.
If I try locking the car from the driver's door lock, the same happens (all try to lock, but then immediately unlock again).
If I lock the car from the passenger door, all locks execute fine - and likewise if I unlock from the passenger door, all doors unlock fine.
If I unlock the car from the driver's door, only the driver's door opens - no others.
Sounds strange, eh?
Any ideas? I'm not *that* bothered, as it's a 10 year old car I'm learning in, so central locking isn't really important for learning to drive... but it's a niggle that if it can be easily or cheaply fixed, I'd like to resolve.
Thanks in advance. Read more
On the focus you can disconnect each door electrics individually, if you open door you will see large trunking from door pillar to door, undo one at a time while checking locking system if system works when say passenger door is undone suspect that is the door at fault. If the system stops working suspect fuse which is located behind main fuse box, you have to remove the whole fusebox to get at it, fuse is on the back on its own
My 2.0 TDI Golf Mk V is coming up to 4.5 years old, and 73k.
Recently, the engine fan has started kicking in on a regular basis, far more regularly than it used to, and at times when you wouldnt expect, such as when the engine is cold after being sat for a couple of days (amoungst others). I know it is summer and therefore the fan will kick in when sat in traffic etc, but this is far more regular than that.
I have checked the coolant level, which is all fine. The car was only serviced last month and has a full VW history.
Any ideas what this might be? Something to do with the control module, or something more sinister?
I appreciate nobody can really diagnose over the internet, but wondered if this was a common fault........ or the starts of soemthing more serious (HG failure?)..........
Thanks in advance. Read more
I've recently done "Big Als" fan fix to my MK4 golf v5 estate and alls good again, it bypasses the damaged internal resistors using a pair of RS Components sourced external resistors mounted on a heat sink connected to the fast side of the fans to give slow and fast speed twin fans again.
website.lineone.net/~alan.james.lorely/fan%20mod/R...l
;o)
I have a 1999 V-Reg Toyota Corolla 1.3 which I have owned for 3 years and has now done 92k. It has been perfectly reliable and I'm very happy with it, but in the last couple of months, it has lost power in the higher gears. It doesn't seem to be continuously deteriorating, rather a noticable change.
Previously for example, I would approach a big roundaboat slowing to 30mph in 4th gear. Then I would accelerate gently if there is a gap. Now, when I try to accelarate in the same situation, the car seems to loose power and lurch foward several times. I can either change down into third, or after a few seconds of lurching, the car gets a grip and gains speed. This has upset a few drivers when I've pulled out safely and then dawdled in front of them. I get the same problem trying to pull away from 20mph in 3rd gear which previously was fine.
So it seems the car is now less forgiving and has a smaller range of speeds in which it is comfortable in each gear. I have changed my driving style and drop down gears much more frequently when I need acceleration but I am wondering if this problem needs fixing (urgently or at some point) and what are the likely possible explanations (and how much each of these would cost to investigate and fix). I would really appreciate your advice. Read more
Corolla update: In the end we decided to book an early service, and also replaced the HT leads. The garage checked out the coil packs, which seemed ok still, and the car is now running beautifully again, so I think we can put the power problem down to the HT leads. The clutch certainly is quite worn, but I'm hoping it will keep going for a bit longer.
Thank you everybody very much for your advice!
I've just helped my son to buy his 1st car. Peugeot 106 independence 1.1 2000 W reg 43k miles (private sale), paid £1200.
The seller owned it 4-5 years from 25kmiles - 43k miles and said it had been taken care of etc, but has since said the cam belt was not changed (it might have been by the previous owner). Considering the low milage do you think it's vital I get it replaced ASAP
Posted on behalf of an e-mailed question Read more
My two sons have owned 3 106s between them and clocked up over 100k miles in 5 years in them.
One did 90k miles.
One is on 40k miles and is 8 years old.
One is on 45k miles and is 10 years old.
All are on or original cambelts except the last which has had a new hg fitted.
The recommendation is change every 72k miles.
I don't like rear carriers because they are awkward to fit and obscure number plates and lights, and I find the towbar options too expensive. Carrying on the roof seeems to be the best option. Are there any disadvantages with this apart from having to lift the bike on to the roof? One concern is high speed stability. Are they safe when driving at say 75mph with crosswinds?
Do you need to attach roof bars first and then the bike carrier? I've seen a thule 530 and they cost about £35 on ebay - is this a good product? How much should I pay for roof bars on a mk1 focus hatch? Read more
Indeed it is, but if I live in Brighton and I'm spending the weekend mountain biking in Wales or in the forests south of Paris it might take a little too long to ride it there.
as a professional coach driver i am frustrated by countless idiots towing at illegal and dangerous speeds. my coach is limited to 62mph by law and i am forever being over AND UNDERTAKEN by eejets towing. the law changed in 1997 to give newly qualified drivers a total trailer limit of 750 Kgs. how many people who passed their test in '97 at the age of 18 are now 30 with a wife and a couple of kids and a caravan. i don't know of many caravans that way less than 750 Kgs.
sorry i started to rant. what can i do? i can't ram them off the road as they are gone past to fast and if i phone the police they aren't bothered.
Read more
A counter allegation of "driving without due consideration....." would help in warding off a prosecution.
hi new here, just noticed a coolant leak , puddle under car after doing a 60 mile run, and another running drizzle from under car after 60 mile return journey, the temp guage hasnt been above mid way, no rough idel or running as yet, it did seem a little under powered after about 90 miles struggled a little up hill at 60mph it a zetec engine, auto gearbox cant see where leaking from but seems to be from rear of engine bay, havnt been able to get under it yet co i got a dodgy neck and cant move too well, any ideas? Read more
cheers will have a look at that, i managed to have a quick look today theree is a 50mm drop of coolant in the filler tank no water in the oil but seems to have no pressure at the filler cap even after running it up to temperature and funny enough i couldnt see any leakage , if there is a leaky pipe or something like that would that be the cause of system not pressurizing? just a guess, and hoping for a cheap fix !!!
i'm thinking of buying a second hand lpg transit from about 2005.
i can't find much information related to these.
does anyone out there have one?
what are they like?
anything i should be wary of?
Read more
AARRRAGH
NO
Never
We got one in work and it has given endless bother
And Doh the Ford folk know furry all about them
I tink we were down for literally months on one occassion
Browse
.jpg)
>>
Just followed a new Bently Continental R and noticed two things.
The spare was dangling in its cage underneath the boot. I cannot imagine the owner, in person, dealing with a wheel change :-(
The other thing was the centre brake light was not working ( or is it some clever job that only works at 1 G braking ?)