May 2009
Hi folks,
Have had intimitent what I would call "stutters" on my Focus occasionally during the 13 months I have had it. (one previous owner, bought at 2.5 year old, 25,000 on clock, now done 42,000). Power loss is similar to someone lightly dabbing the brake, hardly detectable to a passenger but detectable and annoying to the driver. Loss is not quite enought to visibly move the rev counter down.
Yesterday evening this stuttering was getting worse making me think it could be an ignition problem (was going to check plugs when I got home), then doing about 70mph just about to leave the M42 it came up with an "engine system failure" light on the dash and then when I pressed the acknowledge button on the end of the indicator wand it said it was in "Speed Limited Mode".
Engine then stalled setting off from lights at motorway island and after restarting appeared to return to normal. I have done around 35 miles in 3 seperate trips since this problem without the "Engine System Failure" warning re-occuring.
From what I have researched am I correct in thinking the "Engine System Failure" will have logged an error code somewhere on the system that connecting it to diagnostics will reveal.
Can anyone suggest what my be the root of this problem. I have heard it could be a speed senor, lambda senor, engine coolant senor or problem with ECU itself.
I also understand that a main dealer can charge £100 or more just to plug car into diagnostics machine without actually fixing problem.
What is my best plan of action?.
Can someone other and/or cheaper than a main dealer access the diagnostic codes ?.
Could any on these sensors be a likely cause and be replaced myself for less than the cost of £100 worth of diagnostics?
Strangely this problem appeared to disappear from the point the car had its first oil and filter change since I bought the car and then re-appeared coinciding with having it's second oil and filter change. Is this just fluke or could there be some logic to this?.
Thanks in advance for any help and advise.
Phil.
Read more
Hi
Hopefully my first post will yield some decent results.
I drive an 04 Fusion 2 which has done just over 60k
Last week i was driving from nottingham to southampton and going down the A34 at about 70 when the engine seemed to die - no response on revving, no power etc. The display said EAC fail.
Pulled over, turned off the engine and then restarted the car. Came on and drove fine for a bit, until it went again.
This time i got the AA to come out and they looked at it, chucked the diagnostic computer in and it came up with code P2135 (i think)
The code pointed to the throttle position sensor failing.
GOt back to southampton ok, and the next day we started out going back.
It went 30 times between southampton and oxford.
Got the AA to tow from Oxford to nottingham
Being a bank holiday i then had a day when i couldn't do anything.
Got it to a garage, explained the fault and they replaced the tps/accelerator pedal.
£150
Got the car back and due to a wedding had to drive all the way back to southampton again.
Filled up and got back no problems.
Went to the wedding, and then today on the way home we got to about birmingham and it started doing it again.
20 times so far.
Not sure what to do next??
i'm assuming it can't be that switch, as surely replacing it should have fixed the problem??
so..
anyone got any ideas?? Read more
I now have this fault on a 04 plate 83k miles a quick restart of the engine seems to resolve but is getting more regular, seems to always fail in second gear on roundabouts or hills, my cousin runs a garage and untill stays on he can not run diagnostics ????? But today it cut out twice and now I have an engine management light on, any ideas and I am not technical about cars so in the least technical terms so I can understand would be great thanks ????
Hi,
I'm driving a Nissan Micra 1.2 2006 "E" and on my way to work this morning, the yellow engine light appeared on the display.
It is currently with a local garage who are running a diagnostic test, but I'm really worried it could be something serious. The sickening part of all is that the 3 year warranty only ran out 4 days ago (!!!)
On my way home last night the engine seemed to be slightly less nippy than usual, and at one or two points, without applying any extra pressure to the accelerator, the car sped up slightly on its own. I noticed that the rev needle at some points was "quivering" a bit. It was very windy outside though, so perhaps I was imagining things. But this morning, the car drove fine to work but the engine light came on the display.
Any thoughts? I'm terrified it could be something serious - I don't even need it after next month and was planning on selling it.
Just for info - 2 days ago I put some oil in as it was getting low. I put quite a bit in, and the oil was purcharsed about 4/5 years ago. It is Tesco oil for all petrol engines. I also wiped around the top of the engine with a wet wipe, as it seemed to be covered in ash. Not sure if this could shed light on the matter.
Thanks in advance
Robert
{edited to remove make/model/year/engine info from header as this automatically gets included from the mandatory boxes that you have to fill in} Read more
...I'm now expecting the garage to say that it's the downstream sensor!
To follow up from my earlier post, the main dealer did indeed say that the other oxygen sensor needed changing. Apparently this was 'completely unrelated' to the upstream sensor fault, but as an engineer I do find this hard to believe....
Does anybody know the correct legal position regarding old green paper driving licences? My licence is of this type however recently somebody told me that this is no longer legal (I am not sure if this is for ID purposes or for driving legal purposes) and that I need to get a card type which is what is issued now, however, to do this I will have to pay a fee! Any comments on this? Read more
Old style licence is perfectly legal in the UK.
Hiring a car abroad is OK if you have a supporting passport (which you must have to get there in the first place).
Only problem I see is a traffic violation in Europe. The new type licence has letters on which are standard across Europe for the type of vehicle driven. If you do not have the new licence with these codes how does the local Police know what you are authorised to drive ?
Sorry if this has already been raised and I missed it.
I see that Tesco is selling 'Fully Synthetic', 5W - 40, oil in 2 litre quantities for £12. 'Suited to cars using infrequent oil changes' and it states the specifications it meets. Presently I pay £30 for four and half litres (+P&P) so it looks about the right price for a good quality synthetic oil in small quantities. Anyone know more?
Please, let's not get into a discussion of oil changing.
Read more
Here's what oilman said on the subject of oil specifications and labelling some time ago. www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=42671&...f
i have a 2005 1.3 cdti combo van and my timing belt?chain?? has snapped.
is this a 'safe' engine or am i looking at internal carnage??
cheers in advance
Moved over from Discussion Read more
we have one of these in the workshop at the moment 90k on the clock and it has absolutly wrecked the engine so no they are not a safe engine, Regards TB
Following some links (there's a lot of reading if you follow them) it seems many are using Two Stroke oil mixed with their diesel fuel.
tinyurl.com/nd5ap8
tinyurl.com/43psh3
tinyurl.com/mwosjn
Can't remember 2T oil in the various fuel additive discussions but feel free to delete this if it's already been covered Mods.
Could we have a nice discussion please, everyone's opinion is valid.
Read more
Lucas-CAV DPA pumps were always very noisy - the rollers rattled about going on and off the cam ring, even worse if they were specced for a three or two cylinder motor, the Bosch EPVE series was always a lot quieter.
Astra 1.6 8v 2001 petrol. The car runs perfect until sometimes usually in traffic or pulling up to a junction the engine fault light with the spanner symbol comes on, and the engine goes into limp home mode.
Turn the engine off and restart back to normal operation and engine light goes out. Recently the wife reported that light was reluctant to reset after several starts. I have had a diagnostic check and no codes found.
Only work done so far is to clean throttle body and all connections are sound. Any other ideas please. Read more
In the last two days this has started happening to me car and spanner light coming on but what I have noticed is when temp gauge rises to half way when fan should operate after being in traffic the light appears and put car into limp mode soon as car cools and gauge returns to normal or left overnight light stays off
so throttle side of things and Ecu you might be looking in the wrong area might be more simple than first thought just observation
Hi
Apologies for basic questions following. Not familiar at all with MK4 Polo, its my gfs. Mines a MK2 Golf .... much simpler :-))
Any gotchas to be aware of when changing main head light bulb, small light bulbs, parking light bulbs, brake light bulbs ?
How do I change the plugs ? How od I access the plugs ? I cannot see how the plastic engine cover is removed ?
Thanks
Peter Read more
In case someone might find it useful, here is how to change the following bulbs on this car
In all cases it is a quick easy fix. Its useful to have a small hand mirror and a long nosed pliers but not necessary. Mirror allows a look at the fittings which are in a tube in the light housing.
Notes assume rubber cover removed in each case.
For all bulbs I found it easier to look from front of lights when replacing bulb
HeadLamp
Pull off wiring connector. Its a 2 pin connection. Pull straight off.
Bulb is held in place by a black plastic ring, with 2 lugs you can press against to twist the ring. Ring twists about 10mm, but does not come off. Twist ring, remove bulb. Reverse to replace
Parking light
This is a capless bulb in a black sleve which clicks into place in the light housing. Thumb and fore finger is all you need to get a grip on the sleve. Wiggle to remove, pull bulb out of sleeve to replace.
Small Full beam - Mirror and pliers useful here
Pull off wiring connector. Its a 1 pin connection. Pull straight off.
Held in place by a wire clip mechanism, which has a handle at the top. Push handle to side to unclip wire. Fold down. Remove bulb.
Bulb slots into place in one direction with two locating studs on bulb body.
I have a 335i with just over 40k miles on the clock and in its 2nd year of warranty. It has not been involved in any accident or impact and yet the REAR alloys are cracked and in need of replacement.
BMW are blaming the state of the UK roads and wont do anything about it. My point is that they should build a car that can cope with local conditions; or modify it as they change.
I am astonished at the (polite) couldnt care less attitude of BMW, but I wondered - has anyone else had to arge this with BMW UK? If so what was the outcome?
ps: The local dealer has quoted a mind blowing £2k for 4 tyres and 2 wheels!!! Read more
As many others have said, the combination of big wheels low profile tyres is a bad mix. Our road system in the uk is a disgrace, so the combination of the two is very very bad news. Just drive westbound into cardiff on the a48m and then the a48 and see the pitiful state of a dual carriageway/motorway, main trunk road going into the welsh capital. Good for the tourists ehhhhh! just had 4 days of driving in silkysmooth roads in france and belgium. what an advert for the uk our roads are.
I had the same problem. The mechanic garages could not find the reason. They said it is electricity related issue. I banged on the dash a few times and I realised the lights/engine fault messages come on/off so I knew it was the cluster. I took the cluster to one of the guys who said they can fix online near Portsmouth. They found the problem with the cluster and fixed it. The car has been running perfectly fine for a month now. I have ford focus 2006 automatic....