April 2009
Evening all
Injector cleaner - can anyone recommend a good one? there are so many to chose from
Do they actually work - is it worth adding some every month or buying a more expensive one that you use every 4K?
Finally do i need to take the car for a good blast once i have put the cleaner in?
Car Laguna II 88000 miles
Thanks guys
H Read more
What does a single white line along the edge of a two lane road in a rural area actually mean, does it have any legal meaning or is it as I think only to mark the edge of a road where there is no street lighting,sometimes called a fog line. I have been all over the Highway Code and various web sites and can't seem to find a definative answer. Your replies appreciated. Read more
The solid white line that indicates that you should not block an entrance is different from a normal edge line. It is offset a minimum of 500mm from the edge of the carriageway and has cross bars at the end (Diagram 1026.1). See :-
www.opsi.gov.uk/si/si2002/023113bg.gif
Hi there,
Hope someone can help - we've started getting an 'Insufficient Oil Pressure' at low revs usually when the car is warm.
We've double checked we have the correct grade oil in the car and we have - car has done around 69k miles.
any ideas?
thanks,
John.
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I had the same problem. after reading the coments on here I ended up taking the oil sump off to find the pickup pipe was blocked.
A previous owner of the car had had the sump off and used bathroom sealent as a gasket but they had used too much.
This here Corsa 1.3 CDTi 90 has done this twice now.
Set off from home, 7C, about 3 miles down the road in a 30 zone, doing 30 in 4th the engine stutters, both times this has happened it does this 3 or 4 times over the course of half a mile or so, then the yellow spanner light comes on.
The rest of the journey is a small amount more 30MPH, then up onto a dual carriageway and 70MPH all the way.
Both times, it's never murmured at the 70MPH bit, and if I park up and restart, the yellow light has gone.
First time it did this it was due a service, garage didn't find a fault code, or if they did, they didn't report it to me.
It's been fine for 4 months since then, but happened again this morning, exactly the same circumstances. First time I thought it might have been the fuel filter or something but that was replaced in the service. It's at 31K miles now.
Any thoughts? Read more
er yes a code reader will tell you where the problem generally lies but the skill is interpreting what you are being told by the live data, thats the difference between a good garage and shall we say a not so good garage !
I'm seriously contimplating buying an 05 Transit with a main dealer service history and 37000 miles on the clock. its up for £5500 + Vat which is top book, but its in unmarked condition. I will have to pay the VAT !
Concerned about the huge potential repair costs of this Common Rail engine which won't be covered by a warranty as it is a private sale.
Is this the same engine that is fitted to the Mondeo and has been the subject of extensive discussion following the appearance of warning lights on the dashboard? Its had a new clutch at 10,000 miles which I understand was fitted following a modification to the design.
Grateful for any advice on this purchase as a wrong decision may have a potentially disasterous effect on my small business. I currently run a 99 Transit 80 which is proving tiring to drive all day, but is mechanically sound albeit a little rusty.
Most grateful to hear from anyone who has experience of this van. Read more
Stevie,
Think you might be taking too much notice of the common rail doom mongerers.
As DP says, if they are as bad as people say, you would see them littering the nation's hard shoulders.
I've just put 80k trouble free-miles on a 2002 common rail Focus and am about to do much the same to a new one.
Another of the regular riders on here has put about 150k on a common rail Mondeo and would swear by them, if the forum filter didn't block him.
The newer engine addresses the problems of harshness you have identified with your older one and you say the rest of the van suits you well.
That's my view, but it's your decision, obviously.
Does anyone out there have any tips on cleaning the inside of a windscreen without leaving streaks, especially on a sunny day? I tend to use a cream cleaner for the outside but this can drip down and stain the top of the dashboard when doing the inside. Spray glass cleaners just streak.
Any tips/suggestions most welcome. Thanks.
PS Apologies if this issue has been raised in the past. Read more
Thanks to all you good folks who have taken the trouble to reply. Will just have to try some of them out and see how I get on.
Thank you all.
Good evening,
What is the best way to keep a car looking good? There seem to be a lot of waxes, polishes, sealants (whatever they are?) etc. out there, ranging from under a fiver to £40+ - how do others on this list keep their motors spick and span? I wash my motor with a bucket of water and sponge with a cap full of car shampoo in it, rinse and dry with a chamois, and have used turtle wax in the past, but this has now run out.
Cheers,
B01 Read more
The best car polish, wax in the world & other care care products are Made in Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Scandinavia, Italy, France, UK.
In EU regulation doesn't allow to write ex. Made in Germany if the product was Made in China, this is what happens when you buy an American Made in USA products, many of them are produced from cheapest chemical formula's used for polish or wax, all in China, then US company packages it at home & put a sticker Made in USA. It's lies. Many famous US, UK brands ex. Meguiar's (which belongs to 3M), Turtle Wax etc. they produce ineffective products that sit inside a beautiful packed bottle with nice & shiny (Chiny) label but inside is "cat in the bag" old technology, cheapest ingredients....
I've got a 2000 (X-reg) Jaguar S-Type 3.0 Auto SE, which has developed a gearbox fault - cannot select 4th or 5th gear. It's still drivable around town, but maybe the gearbox will fail totally soon.
I'm going to take it to the local auto gearbox place tomorrow. It's possible it will be a cheap fix, but I doubt it. I won't be surprised if it's a new gearbox, and given that the car is probably worth 2K max, I think that would be throwing good money after bad.
Assuming the gearbox is knackered and I don't want to pay for a reconditioned one, which I guess will be 1-2K, what are the options for disposal? Would anyone pay, say, 500 for it or is it just scrap value?
Before anyone mentions it, I don't want to pay someone to torch it or anything else illegal or immoral. But I must admit I have considered getting the "check engine" light reset and driving it (slowly) in for PX and hoping they don't notice :-)
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If the rest of the car is fine, I'd be tempted to fix it, the 3.0L engine is durable if the car has been reliable electrically then it'll probably soldier on forever. Some S-Types are definitely Friday cars worth avoiding. The only major mechanical niggles you should see is new front wishbones necessary every 70Kmiles or so.
Can anyone shed light on the likely cause of the following problem in a MkII Focus?
Similar symptoms were common in the Mk I Focus it appears and attributed to the Instrument Cluster - featured on WatchDog.
Is it known whether this fault persisted in the Mk II model?
Symptoms:
- battery warning light comes back on and stays on after the car has run for a short distance after starting from cold
- a few miles further on and the instruments go haywire - dials dropping to zero, engine warning lights and so on
- NB engine continues running absolutely normally
- symptoms have become more presistent over recent months.
Ford dealer failed to identify a fault a few months ago (when in warranty) and now wants to charge me to fix an as yet undiagnosed problem - open cheque. The dealer is saying their diagnostics now suggest the alternator is overcharging but the battery isn't "cooked", no bulbs have gone and an independent garage tested it at 16V which sounds OK to me. The dealer is suggesting it could also be the instrument cluster but they cannot check this because the test stops at the alternator check! Other forums suggest there is no diagnostic for the cluster anyway. Further suggestions have included the ECU and dodgey electrical connectors or wiring. Apparently the alternator is regulated via some part of the engine control system, so this may not be the root cause.
I am reluctant to have to pay £280 speculatively for a replacement alternator with no guarantee this is the real problem only to face further bills for who knows what!
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I have a 55 plate ford focus 1.6 petrol sport and i have had the same issue all the lights lighting up and speedo rev counter and temp gauge flatlining then 10 minutes after its fine im booked in to have the cluster board refurbished by an auto electrician via a company who specifies in this area its costing me £150 to have it refurbed and £50 for the garages time so all in £200 its never had anything wrong with it so it doesnt seem too expensive
Just got a pair of Avon ZV5 tyres fitted to the front of my Hyundai by ATS. Pleasantly surprised (even as a Scot) to note they are made in England. I assumed all Avons were now made in Malaysia. Fully fitted price matched the online sites.
There was a warning notice, in the waiting room, about new tyres being preferably fitted on the rear- but nothing was mentioned to me.
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>>> That's mine too, but nowt to do with tyres. <<<
(hehe!) Nice one squirrel.
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