January 2009

Harv34

Hi all,

Mileage at present 82000

I have renault laguna 1.9 DCI the car keep going into Limp mode when driving.

Both the glow plugs light and the engine management light come on together and the cars goes into limp mode. If i stop and start the engine it goes out and is ok again for a while. Its very intermitent i can have days when it dosent come on and days when it always comes on!

I have had the car serviced just full service - does anyone have any ideas what this could be - i have had the car on an engine management machine but it came back with no errors being logged?

I have spoken to someone today who mentioned it could be a build up of carbon on any number of things and that i could have contributed to the problem by being a careful driver....

Any ideas or suggestions would be very greatfully received

I have not yet changed the glow plugs this may be a good place to start?

Thanks a lot,


Harv Read more

mrsarcasm

It could be any manner of things, its naive to just throw money at it, try giving it a clean first: www.meganeownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1...6

Nomag

SWMBOs Octavia comes to the end of its lease this year and she won't qualify for another lease vehicle. So it's time to spend our own hard earned on the main family car.

We have a growing family and after much debating think an S-Max will suit us best. I didn't really want to move up from an estate but having looked around at supposedly larger estates they don't seem to offer us much over the Octavia.

The question I am pondering is whether to go diesel or petrol. Our annual mileage in the vehicle will be around 15k, short journeys urban in the week, with regular long stints on the motorway at the weekends. We also have to tow our 1325kg caravan about 10 times a year.

We have had diesels for a while, but with all the DPF, DMF etc debate I'm not sure it's worth it. In the S-Max, the 2.0 diesel would suffice but I would really like the 2.2 for a bit more shove especially towing. However, while there are plenty of 2.0's on the used market, there are very few 2.2s and they are very highly priced. Alternatively, I could get a 2.5T petrol, which seems to be priced a couple of grand below the 2.0 diesel for similar spec. My questions are as follows:

1. How will the costs stack up over four years use (buying used)
2. How will the performance of the 2.5T compare to the 2.0 and 2.2 diesels?
3. What is the reliabiliity of this 5 cyl unit like - I know it's proven but how would it compare to the diesels?

Your thoughts appreciated. Read more

a900ss

DMF problems have affected the 1.8 diesel S-Maxes but not the 2.0 (my 1.8 was fine however)

Can I suggest that you pay a visit to www.smaxownersclub.co.uk where I'm sure you'll find lots of owners who tow and do a similar mileage to you.

FWIW, my 1.8 S-Max was a great car in the 55,000 miles and 18 months I had it. It also would average about 43/44MPG (true, not from the trip computer) and 50MPG if you took it steady.

Good Luck.

Mr X

Some of you out there must be drinking de icer. Just bought a bottle from Sainsbury's and on the till receipt it says ' Think 21 . Cashier Confirmed Correct Age " !!
Yes, my age was checked for a bottle of Sub Zero de icer. Read more

madux

Austrians?

Waino

I'm sure we talked about this subject many moons ago, but I can't find the reference to it.

This evening, Mrs W arrived home honking the horn for attention - she has me well-trained! A dip-beam bulb had failed on the Focus again - grrrrr! This is the 5th to fail in the 2 years between 40,000 and 61,000 miles. I wouldn't mind so much - but, as we all know, it's a pain to change unless you have 'the knack'. It's not always on the same side - in fact this one should be slightly easier because it's not on the battery side.

I've a suspicion that earlier failures have been associated with cheaper bulbs but I know for a fact that the current survivor is a Ford Motorcraft bulb - and so is the replacement that I have for the one that has just failed.

I have only ever changed one bulb on the Mondy in 150k miles - and that was years ago with a cheap replacement, so why is the Focus so intolerant of bulbs???

Has anyone else come across this - and, moreover, found a solution?

Cheers Waino Read more

ifithelps

No failures in the CC3 yet, but I wonder if the auto lights feature shortens the life of the bulbs?

Now the shorter days are here, each time I start the car the lights come on with the ignition first, then the starter cranks.

Not sure if that does the filaments any harm, or not.

Could turn auto lights off, but it's a handy little toy.

Dynamic Dave


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Pugugly

Should have used Thunword shouldn't I ?

NowWheels

Last week, I bought a Vectra Life 1.8 estate from a car supermarket, for a friend. It won't be poicked up by my friend for another week or two, so I have been using it a bit to shift some big things which don't fit easily in my car, as well as taking it off to get parking sensors fitted.

Mostly it seems fine: quiet, smooth-riding, comfortable, very spacious, simple to drive (though huge to park). It has no handling vices that I have found, but it doesn't feel brilliantly planted on the road. Nothing serious, just rather less precise than my Almera, and less of a driver's machine than a Mondeo. But that's no surprise: this isn't intended to be a fun car, and wasn't bought as one.

However, there are two things which seem odd:

1/ The central locking works on the boot, and both the front doors, but not the two rear passenger doors. Is this some bizarre cheapskate thing for the base model? Or is something broken? (I've never before seen or heard of a car which has remote central locking, but not on all doors) I tried turning on and off one of the child safety catches, but it made no difference, and I can see nothing in the owner's manual about this.

2/ There's a slight and intermittent roughness in 4th gear, and only in 4th gear. When travelling between about 40/45mph and 60mph, the gear level vibrates enough to cause a mildly unpleasant rattly resonance in the plastic trim which surrounds the gear level (it;s probably the ashtray which is vibrating). On a 35-mile trip yesterday, I changed in and out of 4th gear and it was reliably present every time I used 4th, but only when under load (nothing when I lifted off the gas). However, I couldn't replicate it today, tho I didn't reach that speed very often on the backroads I was using (I'm going to try again on the mway later this evening). The car is an ex-hire vehicle, so I'm inclined to wonder if something was damaged by some don't-care hirer crunching the gears, but I'm also wondering if I'm being a little paranoid. :-

Any thoughts on either issue? Read more

Number_Cruncher

It's quite unlikely that the problem will be anything inside the gearbox itself - possibly a mounting or something loose in the remote mechanism allowing some noise and vibration to be transmitted.

I suspect that if you did go back to the supermarket, they'll send you to the dealer anyway. Perhaps 'phone them, and check. I would be *really* surprised if they take it back and do anything to it themselves.

Even if the supermarket did do anything, I wouldn't trust many outside the dealer network to do any significant electrical work on these cars (including disconnecting the battery!) - as already hinted at, these cars place great reliance on their CAN bus systems.

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

Hi. I have a 1999 1.8 Vectra.

The latest problem is the temperature guage has stopped working. Maybe 1 out of 5 times when I use the car it might read a little (wont go any higher than the blue on the gauge).
This seemed to have started a few weeks ago when we had that really cold spell. Dont know if it was that or just a coincidence.
The car is running normal. I've not long came back from a 150 mile round trip with no problems.
This is just one of those things thats annoying and would like to fix if its easy enough.

Anyone got any idea what the problem may be?

Thanks for any help. Read more

madmarc

Hi guys I know this is an old thread but its a common problem. On these engines the temp sender earths thru the thermostat housing and causes dissimilar metal corrosion.Find temp sensor(brass 30mm long bolt in thing with single wire connected to it, top left of block as you face engine) remove wire by pulling on spade connector NOT wire, then undo sensor 1/4 turn then retighten. repeat 3-4 times then nip up tight (not too tight its an ally housing) now reattach spade connector. start engine and allow to idle for 5 mins, check temp gauge, all should now be well. If no change repeat above to clear corrosion. hope this helps

diesel dad

hi,does anyone know or has any diagrams on how to fit a timing belt on a fiat stilo 1.9 jtd?..fiat want silly money for this job, i have ordered belt kit £110.belt,tensioner etc,.and also being a common rail system with a high pressure pump does the pump have to be "timed"?..haynes do not make a manual for this model,& i,m not giving fiat over £200 just to fit a timing belt.... Read more

Andrew Moorey (Tune-Up)

Oh well there you go then!

b1209h

Hi

I have recently bought Citroen Dispatch 2.0HDI 8v on a Y reg with a cutting out problem. It has done 180k on the clock.

It only cuts out on full trottle but if you drive it slowly it is ok.

Firstly i had diagnostics done, it showed common rail problem P1112. I then changed the fuel pressure sensor. Still cutting out on full trottle.

Then as follows changed and still the same problem :

a - pump in the tank
b - hp pump changed
c - injectors reconditioned
d- wiring loom changed
e - alternator reconditioned
f - trottle sensor changed
g - fuel filter housing changed
h - ECU checked, was ok
i - Cam sensor and crank sensor changed
j - Cam pulley replaced
k - emissions checked and ok
l - used injector cleaners, made no difference
m - air flow meter changed

Can anyone shed some light on this, after changing all these the van is still cutting out.
You can either email me on b1209h@yahoo.co.uk or on this post.

Thanks

Baz Read more

top-mechanic

sounds like a weird one cant belive its had so many parts, sounds like a deffinate fuel problem engine will cut out with either too low fuel preassure or too high fuel preassure ,is your scanner capable of reading fuel preasure, like some one has said the 3rd piston actually comes in at high revs boosting fuel presure for demand so at idle u would exspect 300 bar and as u rev engine it should increase too 700bar if u could read this then we could see what was going on, and i could advise futher !

Rasher

Hi

My previous message did not post properly it seems. My wife reports her car (HT51 Plate 206 2 Lt HDI GLX) has lost power and engine sounds strange . Also there is a Diagnostics warning light illuminated on the dash. Car still drives but slowly. I researched this on the net and Im aware it could be any number of things but is there any tools I can by to get the fault codes myself without taking it to a pegueot garage or is that my only option? Im serving in Iraq so cannot do anything from here. Any help is appreciated

Kind Regards

Al

no need to shout ! slt Read more

Rasher

Thanks Waterville

Checked out the site you mentioned but found that the 40 quid device is only for diesel's after 2004. I'll try this other garage as it will be cheaper hopefully. Probably pay big to get it sorted then i'll get rid me thinks.

Cheers

Al