October 2020
I find it very odd that Suzuki have dropped the 1 litre Boosterjet engine that has only been in production a few years (possible less than 5 years) As a owner of a 1.0litre Boosterjet Swift, should I be worried. Read more
This company is spending a fortune on advertising and their delivery vehicles are everywhere but has anyone had any first hand experience of the company ? Read more
Think there is also Heycars and another on line dealer offering this kind of service.
Cazoo s advertising costs must be huge but with no premises it must balance out....
Hello,
I am looking for some help as I am losing the will (and running out of money).... Read more
Hi,
I have the same problem with my 308 vti.
No one can find the cause. Have you solved the enigma?
Greets
As many forum contributors will know, a few years ago the PSA group purchased Opel & Vauxhall from General Motors.
While most of the models that have been released since the take over have differentiated significantly enough to stand alone since the take over (for example the corsa differs enough from the 208 to be distinctive), that cannot be said for the Berlingo MPV / Rifter MPV and Combo MPV which are near identical unless you go for the top trim level,.
So second question of the week - on behalf of a colleague
He wants a brand new, base spec 5 seater 1.5 diesel MPV Berlingo/Rifter/Combo Life and plans to keep it from cradle to grave (he had a 51 plate Berlingo that’s just given up the ghost after 19 years and 289k of service).
Of all 3 models, the base specs are near identical (although to confuse matters Peugeot seem to have pulled the base spec Active trim in the UK but there is a handful left in dealer stock).
The Vauxhall is the cheapest from a broker, the Citroen £380 more and the Peugeot some £1300 more direct from a dealer (in metallic, no solid colour left) than the Vauxhall.
After all that, the question is - why go for the Citroen or Peugeot?
Will a Citroen or Peugeot badge hold their value better?
Will he have problems touring in Europe getting support and parts if it’s badged a Vauxhall despite being mechanically identical?
Once the warranty has expired will his local Peugeot dealer (around the corner from his house) be able to service it for him? Can they service it for him in the first 3 years and keep the warranty going as the car is identical to the Peugeot Rifter MPV? (The Vauxhall dealer is 7 miles from his home, the Peugeot dealer is 0.3 miles!).
Thank you for any help
Read more
The plan with the Fiat merger was to make Fiat the budget brand for commercials
Not sure how that would work if they push the 500 and 500x as luxury lifestyle cars
Wonder if anyone can provide some suggestions for the cause of my suspension problem
I have a C350e which is 4 1/2 years old. DOne just over 60K miles
2 weeks go when drive the children home from school the back end suddenly became very bouncy. No warning message on the dash board. I pulled over and checked and the suspension was right down on both back wheels. Looks fine on the front. I got back in the car and switch the ignition back on and it came up vehicle rising on dash display. Suspension came back up to normal level and drove home fine. I went out it in later in the evening and was all fine.
Next morning, on the way to school, got a dash message saying STOP VEHICLE - VEHICLE TO LOW. Before I had a chance to pull over that disappeared and when I did pull over (maybe a minute later) The rear and front suspension levels looked fine. Even when the message was on the car drove fine leading me to think that it was a false warning but I dont know for sure.
On the way home from school that evening, it did the same thing it did the evening before - back became very bouncy, no warning message but rear suspension low (wheel arch over the tyres). Again came back up when I stopped and started and pressed the suspension up button. I could hear the compressor kick in and bearing in mind that it is right down and the bags are therefore completely empty, it comes back up in a reasonable time (30 secs or so) so that seems to be working.
The car was not used from Thursday to Tuesday due to the issue, during which time the suspension stayed up where it should, so it seems the issue isnt a leak on any of the air springs. Similarly, when I switched the car on on Tuesday to take to get fault codes read, I didnt hear the compressor kick in, suggesting, as far as I thing, that the air reservoirs not leaking, because if they were surely the compressor would kick in to refill them.
On the way to the garage (less than 5 mins from home) the dash warning message to stop again came on and this time the rear suspension definitely dropped right down. Again, though, when I pulled in and pressed the raise suspension button, it came back up and was fine for the remainder of the 8 mile drive to the garage.
The code reading didnt give any errors for the rear which is what had been dropping to that point. Apparentlly there were codes for out of range for the left and right front suspension sensors and also an error for the compressor taking too long to raise the the vehicle.
Based on the symptoms, and that the compressor seems to be working and raising the car, and that it is an intermittent issue, my conclusion at that point (before error codes read) was that it was either a sensor issue - system thinking rear is too high and dropping the rear, but doesnt pick up the change and therefore keeps trying to drop it. However, the fact that the error codes dont indicate a problem with the rear suggests that is not right. I had understood that there is a single sensor for both the back wheeels but have been told on my one there are separate sensors for the left and right wheeels which also makes a sensor issue less likely.The other possibility was that it was a blead valve staying open when it shouldnt - my thinking is that the system was opening a valve to lower the suspension and that was sticking, leading to the read dropping completely. That would then lead to the compressor taking to long fault as it would be trying to bring up but the air put in goes straight out. However, the fact that the car was not warning when the system was too low the first 2 times it happened would suggest otherwise, unless, of course, it is both.
The technical info which the guy at the garage has managed to get apparently points to the compressor leaking somewhere but I cant quite get that unless, I guess, there is a valve sticking open which is allowing air to feed back from the rear springs and causing them to drop, but that would be an issue at the valve manifold rather than the compressor surely.
... Read more
Hi,
I have a 2016 c350e just had the car in the garage for the exact same thing you said....
I am not in the market for an EV so have not given the question of F or R drive any thought until I was reading a report on the VW ID3 which is rear drive. My question is are all these EVs rear driven and what could the implications on the road be as to driving in snow? Also how does servo braking differ from your conventional car? Read more
I drove a pre-production Zoë, and that drove really nicely - unless you needed to move it a few centimetres . It would either stay where it was or move a metre, but that was 2012 and there has been a lot of finessing since.
Probably better off with a prius as they creep without a problem and little effort, and no reason why an EV cant do that if well designed! though you can hear them but only to be expected
My son has use of a 68 plate Skoda Octavia estate 2.0 tdi and he was just saying how noisy he finds it, both engine and road noise.
I seem to remember people complaining before on here about the estate version. Is a petrol hatch octavia a quiet thing to drive? Read more
I don’t know if it’s still the case on newer Ocatavia, but previous generation cars used to wear a ‘saw tooth’ pattern into the tread blocks of the rear tyres.
If you ran your hand around the tyre one way, it was smooth, but coming back the other way you would come across the raised edge of each block.
How many miles has it (or the rear tyres) done?
So a couple of days ago I get the dreaded 'Soot Accumulation in DPF Too High' message on my 6, which has just had it's 5th birthday and done 40k. Following Mazda's helpful guidance, off for a run down the M23 I go, keeps revs between 2.5-3k. Halfway back the message turns into 'DPF Malfunction', so I presume this means the automatic regen failed.
I call the local Mazda garage, who inspect it (well, probably plug in their code reader and charge £120 for the privilege) and tell me that the Throttle Body needs to be replaced and a manual regen tried, but this - after already leaving me £500 odd worse off - doesn't guarantee that it'll fix the problem, and the DPF might need to be replaced anyway. I'm skeptical on whether anything more than a regen is needed - car hasn't gone into limp mode and showing no performance issues and no unusual emissions. Not sure how they've reached the conclusion that the throttle body needs replacing...... Read more
Fixed the boot closing issue. Took everything apart and reconnected it, as any good IT Tech would do :D
Button on the fob doesn't work anymore for some reason, but at least it locks again.
Hi all,
I've just been looking at an 09 Fiesta 1.6tdci Titanium for my wife to replace her 206 however I've read some articles that it's not the most reliable engine. She probably only covers a couple thousand miles a year as it's a secondary car to us really.... Read more
Just found another Titanium with the 1.4 petrol engine, 52k on a 2010. Looks nice and hopefully a good option
Hi,
Looking for some help diagnosing my issue. I recently bought a 2018 Suzuki Vitara S All Grip Automatic and a few days later it developed a noise when driving. The closest thing I can compare the noise to is a high pitched whistle/buzzing on a phone line. The sound becomes more prominent at faster speeds > 50 mph and also once the car is warmed up (driving for 20+ mins). It doesn't appear to be linked to accelerating or breaking and sounds like it's coming from the dashboard/infotainment centre (although my partner thinks it sounds more like it's coming from under the bonnet). I've turned off the infotainment centre, A/C, closed the vents etc. and can still hear it. I don't notice it on lower speeds and have experienced it on both windy and non-windy days. It's making long journeys a bit unbearable as the sound can still be heard over the radio. I took the car into a Suzuki dealer last week to take a look and they said that they would do a safety inspection but could only do a limited test drive. The car has come back and they said they couldn't hear the noise on the test drive (no big surprise as they did say the would only do a limited test drive) but suggested it might be from the brakes i.e. the pads or discs heating up after a while and somehow causing the sound - they suggested stripping and cleaning all break pads as a precaution. Which they did but it has not resolved the issue.
I bought the car from a well know UK car reseller, not direct from the dealer, so believe it's their issue to fix (even though the car is still under warranty), is that correct?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. Read more
The noise is likely to be caused by a faulty bearing on the car's cardan (prop or drive shaft).
You can compare the noise your car makes to the one recorded in this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWdc42VhFeI...
Browse
.jpg)
My daughter has a Baleno 1.0t automatic, which is now 6 years old. It’s been in the family from new. Engine is very responsive and economical, the trip computer is indicating 56.3mpg average, and on the couple of occasions we have checked against what we’ve filled it up with, it is fairly accurate. No issues with the auto box either. Air con compressor needed replacement earlier this year but I don’t think that was the cars fault.
Great little car, very underrated in my view.