February 2006
Virtually all modern cars require these infernal ECUs' to be interogated using a diagnostic tool when the MIL illuminates on the dashboard. My questions are: what is the difference, if any, between a 'code reader' and a 'diagnostic tool'? I have read that in 2001, due to legislation in the USA aimed at reducing emissions, all codes had to be standardized, is this so? Are the codes universal to all manufacturers? Would a hand held tool costing £80ish be sufficient for the DIY mechanic like me? Would any diagnostic tool suffice? because the spread of prices seems bewildering. Basically, I wanna do it myself. Any comments guys? Read more
I have a Passat that is on the long life service. Why is their so much conflicting information as to when the best time to change the oil/get the car serviced. My car is 1 year and 3 months (13000 miles) old and I have no intention unless I get good reason to change it back to a yearly/10000 mile. It seems to me that everybody is so used to yearly/10000 miles service that they do not want to change away from this.
I check my car regularly for any visible problems and top the oil up if needed.
I would appreciate any valid reason why I should change back to yearly/10000 miles/
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So do we all agree that longer servicing especialy for oil
changes is not good? i certainly do
Errrrr... no!
I can remember when my dad had his shop, he had
a transit van. One of his mates was a vauxhall dealer,
& was trying to get him to buy a Bedford CF.
Ford had brought out a revamped transit in the late 70's,
with longer service intervals. Lo & behold Bedford a month later
anounced the same for the CF van. All they had done
was increased the sump capacity for the CF hoping the extra
capacity would not get the oil as dirty. So i think
this proves that this was a nod to the fleet managers.
Firstly, I think things have moved on a tad since the 1970's!. Secondly, I fail to see the link with Bedford responding to a feature that a competitor is offering in order to remain competetive being "a not to the fleet managers"!!!
Question/ how often do any of us this day and age
just check our oil
Well, every other week as it happens...
Next Question how many times have you ever had to top
up? Hardly ever i would think
Pretty much all modern diesels use oil in the first 20,000 miles or so, as well as many Petrol engines...
But that fact we as i do of just looking under
the bonnet is proof we have a interest but most of
joe public does not
huh?
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MoneyMart
Current car: 55-reg Audi A4 2.5 V6TDi Quattro flappy-paddle
A bit of advice please?
I am considering changing my car in the summer with a budget of about £9-10k. I am currently looking at the volvo s60 d5, honda accord pet/dis, and audi a4 tdi. I suppose i should be looking at 2002/3 examples here. I have spotted many good examples (low miles, FSH) of the volvo but i have a worry about apparent injectors failing on them costing £1500 or so? Has this problem been rectified with newer models?
thanks Read more
If you get 35 mpg on petrol
12000 miles costs (at £4.05per gal(90p a ltr x4.5l))
12000 / 35 = 342 x £4.05 = £1338
If you get 45mpg on deisel
12000 costs at £4.27 per gal (95p a ltr etc)
12000 / 45 = 266 X £4.27 = £1138
Pls check my sums(hope i have not made any silly mistakes)
So you only save £200 a year on fuel. If the diesel car is £1000
MORE expensive it will take 5 years to break even.
This is harder to judge for used cars as prices and condition varies so much.
Some new diesels seem to be up about £1500 more for an equivalent model.
other threads also take service costs into account but it then gets more complex. It seems diesel is not all it is cracked up to be from a fiscal view but then you get the driving experience which may be good or bad.
The 2.2ctdi honda is very good but still noisier than petrol i found.
Also no auto which rules it out for me.
The S60 is much classier inside and a very good used buy but I still like my old Accord after 113,000 miles and 8 years on my drive!! Choices choices, not sure what to do either, just wait and see how the old one goes.
Can anyone help me ??
I have a peugeot 306 98000 miles on the clock R reg
over the past few months I have noticed that Oil is getting mixed with the water. I am flushing out the water on a fornightly basis, as the water looks like MUD. I am also having to top up the oil on a regular basis, as it is leaking also slightly underneath the engine. I'm not sure if it is the head gasket or not, as the car does not seem to overheat. I am worried it could be another problem.
Car is still running ok, I just make sure I flush it out every 2 weeks. Can someone explain what they think the problem is ??
rgds
Deano Read more
Do you really want this moosetwit working on your car?
My C-Max has a acceleration flat spot that occurs around 1700/1900 rpm. I understand that this is a common problem, but my Ford garage cannot find it ( no fault code on diagnostic computer).
Has anyone had this problem, if so what was the cause, how was it cured and by whom ?.
I am looking for help from a W Yorkshire garage if possible. Read more
My understanding is that the Mondeo 2.0 misfire is cured by the EGR valve replacement - together with the 'plumes of smoke' issue and a few other faults. There's lots of anecdotal evidence of this - see the mondeo owner's site forum for lots of info on this. (www.fordmondeo.org)
Nearly every posting refers to the dealers recommending an ecu upgrade, but very few seem to get any long term benefit from this. It seems to me to be a mechanical issue, not electronic.
You've just had the EGR replaced, so should notice an improvement. If not, you're the first I've read about to report this.
Fortunately I've never had the above issues. But mine did 'start' cutting out about 12 months back. This was completely cured by a new camshaft sensor - again at the second referral to the garage, because all they did the first time was upgrade the blasted ecu. Why do they do this!?
Splodgeface
Just acquired an 03 plate 320D - bought it from an auction.
I don't know how long the car has been standing still for, but this morning when I got moving, quite a bit of whitish smoke could be seen from the rear view mirror. This lasted for perhaps 3 miles or so, then it disappeared. Oil levels are fine.
Have never owned a BMW diesel before - it seemed to pull when in all gears, and consumption (at least according to the OBC) seemed to 50+ for a 60 mile motorway journey. My only point of reference is a Merc C220CDI ? it felt as if the 320D is both faster, and definitely far more economical.
The car is still under warranty (till Aug 2006). Should I take it to a dealer to check it out, or is the smoke a 'characteristic' for a car that has sat still for some time?
I also have a sneaking suspicion that the former owner has installed a tuning box ? where should I look to see if it is the case?
I just don?t want to be caught by anyone for using non-declared ?performance enhancing? products!
Thanks in advance.
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If it is an auction car it has probably done several 2 minute start stop routines being moved around/transported. After a long run leave it overnight and if the same problem is there the next morning take it to a dealer, if it is OK then its fine...
I have a Honda CG125 and I find it really hard to change gear from 1st to 2nd to the extent that I need to do block gear changes. Obviously, this is no good on such a low powered engine.
Also, gear change from 3rd to 1st or 2nd is really tough.
What could this be? The mileage is 10,000 kms, new oil and serviced.
Any help would be gratefully recieved.
Greg Read more
Has it only been doing it since the oil change?
I remember a friend of mine having similar problems with his old 50cc bike after an oil change. He forgot to replace the copper washer on the sump plug, which was enough to allow the sump plug to screw that bit further into the engine casing and ended up fouling the gear selector drum.
Hi.
I have a 2001 (VReg) Pug 406 HDI. Its developed a diesel leak either on the injector rail or the injector itself (Injector No 2 I think). Can anyone recommend how to find where the leak is comming from and where to source the spares to fix it (where to get new/recon injectors, what injectors I need for this vehicle etc).
Thanks
Marts Read more
No HDi injectors are around £300 but it's possible to get up to 40% off this with trade discount.
When buying fuel I always "fill to the brim" so I can reasonably accurately calculate consumption, but I read somewhere that it's a bad idea. (I use diesel, by the way, if that's relevant.)
Is bad to fill to the brim? If so, why? Read more
At some pumps my diesel Passat causes them to cut out straight away. So I have to twist the nozzle around to stop that.
I usually top up to the filler neck as I can get another 10 litres or so in. Some fuels are so frothy I just give up.
Never had problems with overflow in hot weather with my cars.
Once my fathers's 1968 H120 Rapier did it and a large paint blister blew up. Fortunately it subsided when the fuel dried off.
Still got the blessed cap here, on my desk.
--
I wasna fu but just had plenty.
Golf or a Flog
Liana or A nail?
Kangoo or a Goon ka?
Astra As Rat?
Monaro, Or Moan?
Picasso or a Cap Is So?
Forester, Or Fester
The floor is yours... Read more
Our 3 cars
Fabia vRS - via barfs
Kia Picanto - tapioca kin
Renault Clio - all neurotic
European On Board Diagnostic (EOBD) fault codes were standard on all new UK cars from 1st January 2001 for petrol models, and 1st January 2004 for diesels. Many cars however were EOBD compliant before these dates. This applies to engine emission data only. Any EOBD code reader should be able to read this data, and it's pretty useful to own one.
However, this must not be confused with manufacturer specific codes and data, and in any case carrying out checks on all vehicle modules other than engine emission data will require the use of more specific equipment. There will be lots of varying opinions as to what is best, but I have not yet found one single piece of equipment that truly does everything on every vehicle....