July 2006
Hi, I'm doing alot of motorway towing tomorrow with a Fiat Ducato van (2.8D) and I've just noticed a very slight pin head area of dampness on one of the radiator channels - enough I'm guessing to give that very subtle "hot water smell" that you smell when walking round the vehicle. Obviously I can't sort the rad out for tomorrow - if I put a tin of Rad weld in, will that preserve things, is there a better product or am I wasting my time! As yet no water loss at all and no overheating probs but like I said, towing 1300kg tomorrow in this hot weather so the fan will kicking in and out all the time. Read more
I changed all four glow plugs on a Vauxhall Zafira 2.0 DTI less than six months ago after get a warning light on after every start. My car is now in a Vauxhall garage getting the engine replaced as the tip of one of the new plugs broke off, wore the pistons rings, scored the piston and cylinder block. The cylinder liner / block around No 1 piston was that badly worn it was causing extremely loud knocking (slapping). The garage said it was cheaper replacing the engine than stripping and trying to recondition it. The knocking noise did not appear to creep up on me it, it just happened very quickly.
Is there anyone out there that thinks there is any mileage in apportioning blame on the maker of the glow plug and trying for compensation and any ideas on the best way to proceed if there is? The car itself has a full service history, less than five years old and less than 45K on the clock. Including investagtion work by the garage I am looking at nearly £3000 to get the thing back on the road.
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You can't test glowplugs properly with an ordinary ohmeter - the only reliable indication it will give is an open circuit plug.
By way of an illustration, a cold glowplug (element and ballast) will draw say 20A at 11V giving a resistance of just over half an Ohm (550 mOhms) which will rise to about 1.6 Ohms as the current falls to about 7A....
My Sister-in-Law's 4 year old Focus had to have a new battery. The radio needed re-coding but won't accept the code. She has had the car from new and the code was obviously supplied with the car. The battery has never been disconnected before its replacement nor any work done on the radio. I've very carefully followed the instructions for entering the code but after 3 attempts the radio locked up for 30 minutes. After 10 attempts the radio will apparently lock up permanently. The only thing I can think of is that the dealer supplied the wrong radio code when the car was supplied. However, is it possible that I'm missing something? I'd be grateful for comments. Read more
If you need ford v radio codes from a trusted website go here > www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/ford-v-radio-codes
Hi folks,
Basically, my 1999 1.8i Focus Zetec (60k miles) has started to overheat (at least, according to the gauge) but ONLY when travelling at higher speeds on dual carriageways/motorways and only when you've got your foot down and are putting the engine under a bit of strain (accelerating to keep the speed up on hills for example)
A few points that may be relevent :
When it happens, the temp gauge will go from it's normal 12 o'clock position to almost in the red really quickly.
Once you're in or near the red, the car sometimes feels almost sluggish, like the power isn't right - could this be the Cylinder Head Temp (CHT) sensor telling the ECU to take precautions ?
Strangely - if you ease off, it'll often return to the 12 o'clock position really quickly too - takes less than 30 seconds sometimes !?
Both the coolant and oil levels are fine and there are no obvious leaks around any of the visible hoses or themostat housing.
You can drive around town as much as you like doing anything up to 40mph and it won't happen at all, not even in traffic on a hot day or at traffic lights.
There are seemingly many causes of overheating and so far I've been lead towards the following : faulty CHT sensor, faulty thermostat and the blue Ford coolant which has never been renewed, so could do with being replaced.
The fact that the temperature gauge can go into the red and then (once you ease of) back again so quickly leads me to suspect a faulty CHT sensor. Unfortunately, according to the Haynes manual - to remove the CHT sensor on a 1.8i, you have to remove the alternator and to remove that, you have to remove the auxilliary (cam?) belt so I may need a garage if I go down that route.
The thermostat and coolant I can change myself first though.
Has anyone had similar problems or can anyone offer any advice ?
Could it be the water pump, fan or anything else ?
Cheers,
Mike. Read more
I had the problem where my 51 plate focus was overheating on hills on the motorway.
I had a new water pump, temp sensor and thermostat fitted but no luck. My garage then fitted a new rad and flushed the cooling system as there can be a build up of crystalised antifreeze in the engine pipes that causes air blocks. This flush and the new rad sorted the problem at last!...
I have just bought a very nice Astra at auction, needed a cheap economical runabout so found a 89,000 mile 02 reg Astra LS 1.7 DTI 16v eco 4 (Y17DT eco 4 engine) in silver with FSH for under £3000. At 89000 miles I expected the cambelt to have been done at least once, but the service book and lease company printout reveals the cambelt/tensioner is the original.
I rang 3 main dealers and was told the interval for that engine is 10 years or 100,000 miles! Do any readers know if that is correct, I thought Vauxhall had reduced the interval??
Obviously I will be changing the cambelt/tensioner/pulley pronto, but was wondering if the 3 dealers were talking duff gen?? Read more
As said previously, I have had to sell my car for
spares or repairs due to this and lost a fortune in
three months. From an X reg Astra I have now gone
down to a K reg Orion just to get my kids
to school.
We now have no car and no money to buy anything
decent in the near future, though in saying that the Ford
Orion we bought for £230 has been far more reliable than
the Astra ever was : o )
Being a Ford fan myself, IMO that was a step UP. ;-)
Hi guys got a Vectra V6 with a chipped key, got car and immobiliser worked with one key but not with other key,it had no battery in so got a couple of new batteries and put them into both keys ( what a mistake ) now neither key works the immobilser ,but still works the ignition, tried the re-programming turning the ignition on and press the lock or unlock on the key fob but nothing happens, didn't get a Vauxhall car pass with it, so any ideas on how to program key fob
ta dave Read more
If it's the same as the Omega and Zafira then it's a matter of unlocking the driver's door, turn the ignition on and then press the 'blipper' for a few seconds; this should cause the central locking to cycle lock - unlock, and/or the courtesy light to flash, indicating the blipper is re-synchronised to the car. Sorry to be slightly vague but the method is slightly different between cars. It will be in the user manual though.
WORKED PERFECTLY ON MY 98 VECTRA. MANY THANKS...
I tried to find out just how much petrol is left in the tank when the warning light first comes on, but the book just calls it the reserve area.
Strangely enough, when I came home today my usual garage was coned off after a spill, so I had to go to a more expensive one. When I got there, the orange light was on constant, but after putting in just £5, the light started flashing. It hadn't been flashing before. There is a red warning when you are much lower, but the orange comes on soon after the needle enters the last section, just under 1/8 full, according to the gauge.
Wondered if any more information was available. Any ideas ?
The car is a 2005 Astra 1.6 Read more
cack from the filling stations fuel tanks - which are still steel.
The wife?s car had picked up 3 mega chips in the front bumper (her) plus a scrape about 6 inches by 2 (me). The chips were amazing. They appeared to have gone clean through a top skin of plastic and into some black, coarser plastic beneath. For either one we?d probably have pulled a face and left it at that but for the total damage we decided to get it repaired.
A local body shop estimated £95+VAT but couldn?t do it for about 6 weeks. I guess their bread and butter is bigger stuff and they were booked up. Having heard good reports of Chipsaway on this forum I tried them. They came to us, gave an estimate of £90 plus VAT but, most importantly, could do it ?next week?. That plus the convenience of them coming to us swung it and they got the business. Well the guy has been today and, as the saying goes, I can?t see the join. I haven?t looked at it in every light from every angle but it looks pretty darned good to me. A survey was left, which I assume would go to Chipsway but it?s addressed to the VBRA.
All in all, I?m quite happy and I?d recommend them. I have no connection with Chipsaway in any form.
JH Read more
I have not used Dentmaster but I have used autohealer (mentioned in the FAQ'a) and he was very good.
Could someone let me know how good these cars are? I'm thinking of buying one with a budget of around £700. Would be looking for either 1.1 or 1.5D (don't know which one's better though). I'll be using it locally for delivery jobs and as a shopping cart round town. Are they easy to live with or as troublesome as 306 (had one and it cost me a bomb when head gasket went). Do they give good MPG and what are the common fault I should be aware of? Anything else you could suggest with regards to this car? I really would like to hear from someone who had it for a while.
Edited to reflect the new drop down menu classifications Read more
I got a Punto instead - go on laugh ...
So did I, excellent car, sorry I sold it.
Can anyone explain why there are so many tyre 'speed ratings' available?
Who needs a 'V' which covers up to 149 mph or even an 'H' for speeds up to 130 mph?
As I have no intention of ever going near to 99 mph, should I be looking for a speed rating of 'Q' for 'up to 99 mph'?
Is it satisfactory to mix ratings on the same axle?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
John Read more
I've been asking the same question as I need to replace all 4 tyres and the H and V options are the same price. This article has some useful info:
Mk1 Punto sprang a leak in the heater matrix. Popped a Bars Leaks into the radiator, solved....