June 2006

oilman

What?s written on your oil bottle and what does it mean.

This post may seem like going back to basics but I am constantly surprised by the amount of people who do not know or understand what is written on a bottle of oil and therefore no idea of what they are buying/using.

To be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic information then DO NOT buy it look for something that does!

1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)

2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for Motor oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for Gear oils)

3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings)

4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01 etc)

Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and I will explain later what statements you should treat this with some scepticism

So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?

THE BASICS

All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is.

VISCOSITY

Most oils on the shelves today are ?Multigrades?, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)

Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the ?W? number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance.

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.

SPECIFICATIONS

Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date.
There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d?Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important.

API

This is the more basic as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories. S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel (C) specifications.

The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil are:

PETROL

SG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.

SH - Introduced 1993 has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability.

SJ - Introduced 1996 has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits

SL - Introduced 2001, all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting current emissions standards

SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories.

Note:

All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date SL and SM specifications.

DIESEL

CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only

CE - Introduced 1984, improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits and wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines

CF4 - Introduced 1990, further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston deposits, uses low emission test engine

CF - Introduced 1994, modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines

CF2 - Introduced 1994, defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines

CG4 - Introduced 1994, development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests

CH4 - Introduced 1998, development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high sulphur fuels

CI4 Introduced 2002, developed to meet 2004 emission standards, may be used where EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 % sulphur. May be used where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified.

Note:

All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications.

If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for SL, SM, CH4, CI4

ACEA

This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur).

Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows:

A1 Fuel economy petrol
A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
A3 High performance and/or extended drain
A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines
A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance

B1 Fuel economy diesel
B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
B3 High performance and/or extended drain
B4 For direct injection car diesel engines
B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance

C1-04 Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 low SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible, Higher performance levels due to higher HTHS.

Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.

Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils.

APPROVALS

Many oils mention various OEM?s on the bottle, the most common in the UK being VW, MB or BMW but do not be misled into thinking that you are buying a top oil because of this.

Oil Companies send their oils to OEM?s for approval however some older specs are easily achieved and can be done so with the cheapest of mineral oils. Newer specifications are always more up to date and better quality/performance than the older ones.

Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil:

VW ? 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00

Later specs like 503, 504, 506 and 507 are better performing more up to date oils

MB ? 229.1

Later specs like 229.3 and 229.5 are better performing more up to date oils.

BMW ? LL98

Later specs like LL01 and LL04 are better performing more up to date oils.


FINALLY

Above is the most accurate guidance I can give without going into too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding the labelling.

Certain statements are made that are meaningless and just marketing blurb, here are a few to avoid!

Recommended for use where?????
May be used where the following specifications apply?????
Approved by?????????..(but with no qualification)
Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements are paid for)
Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence)

Also be wary of statements like ?synthetic blend? if you are looking for a fully synthetic oil as this will merely be a semi-synthetic.

Like everything in life, you get what you pay for and the cheaper the oil the cheaper the ingredients and lower the performance levels.

If you want further advice then please feel free to ask here or contact us through our website at www.opieoils.co.uk.

Cheers
Simon
Read more

Brit_in_Germany

Perhaps it is time for the "sticky" to be updated? It does not refer to ACEA C specification oils and these are becoming standard for diesels with DPFs. Simon's post at the start of the thread does include these.

On an aside, does anyone know why C1 oils are so rare? The approved oil for Jaguar XF diesels is a derivaton of the ACEA C1 specification but only one or two manufacturers seem to sell suitable oil, either C1 or Jag spec.

Fullchat

I am now in my 6th week since the purchase of a second hand vehicle from a dealer. The V5 still has not turned up. I have the tear off slip. DVLA did send me a letter after about 3 weeks thanking me for notification of change of my previous vehicle which was px'd.
Anyone with similar experience.Whats the current lead time? Read more

LucyBC

He doesn't need a V5 to get insurance. No insurer will ask for one unless there is a collision and it is written off.

A V5 is the DVLA's record of the registered keeper and does not confer or imply vehicle ownership.

autumnboy

I've been searching for an old registration number I or my father had on our cars in the 60/70's.

But can't find them listed anywhere on the various sites.

Is there anyway of finding these old registrations, even if knowing the vehicle has been scrapped long ago. Read more

Avant

www.mycarcheck.com

will tell you for free whether a car is still on the road and if so what sort of car it is.

Allie

Hi everyone - more advice needed!

First of all I would just like to preface what I am about to say with the fact that I seem to have developed new car hypochondria which has been compounded by the fact that I know the pre-purchase inspection I got wasn't up to much... But as you lot here seem to know far more than the dealer, vehicle inspector and Toyota combined (you were spot on about the lights on buzzer and door locking problem when they were all saying it was normal) I need to ask...

When I start my car after it has been standing for a long period of time (eg overnight) I have noticed a strong petrol smell for a minute or so. I didn't think much of it until today when I jumped out of the car to move the bin and noticed it was even stronger from the outside. It goes after a minute or so. I don't know if the petrol is going down more than usual because I have only had it 3 weeks and it has been doing it since then.

Is this normal if you start a petrol car after standing for a while? (I used to drive diesel). Its a 2001 Yaris 1.3 if this makes any difference.

Thanks guys,

Allie Read more

Kevin

>..I got a letter from Inland Revenue today...

This is too much of a coincidence.

Two weeks ago a friend received a demand from the IR for taxes they didn't collect in 2002. She worked a few weeks for an agency but was at Uni for most of that year. The IR records indicate that she earned £10K per week while at the agency (and no, it wasn't that kind of agency.)

She's having a hard time convincing them that students don't normally get paid £10K per week for temp work.

It sounds like they've uncovered a problem and are trawling through past records.

With the reams of paperwork I get each year for dual UK and US tax liability, I can't wait till they get on my case :-(

Kevin...

Greg R

I was wondering what would be the most recommended car as a taxi. Obviously, it would need to be a very strong and robust car that can clock a lot of miles in a short space of time, relatively cheap to run and comfortable.

What would peoples recommendations be?

Thanks Read more

daveyjp

Yesterday I was in a 1999 E class auto with just 616,000 km on the clock.

Today I was in a W124 diesel manual with 220,000, except it had gone round the clock and had done 1.2 million km. Imagine being a cabbie knowing the car bought in the mid 80s would keep running until you retire!

I also say a couple of W123s, dread to think how many kms they have done,

MCH

Just bought my daughter a 98 Fiesta zetec 1.25. HJ FAQs suggests that Zetec E and S engine cambelt intervals are 80,000. Can anyone confirm that I have one of these engines and can I rely on this, the engine has done 51,000. I am naturally nervous having had a belt snap a couple of years ago.

My local Dagenham Motors told me 100,000/10 years! I know the Focus belts are supposed to last this long, but would a 98 1.25 engine be the same?

Sorry to ask the obvious, but the car came without the service and handbooks. I know this info was probably posted before here somewhere but I couldnt find it!

Many thanks. Read more

MCH

Thanks for the contributions, specially AlastairW. I've been quoted 200-220 pounds at independents. The car goes in next week.

andyfordescort

I've bought a 02 citroen van a few back and need a spare key cut, i'm told only citroen can do this as its a chipped key (not central locking type) and they want £100.00 pounds for the pleasure.
Is there any one else i can try i hate the thought of paying that much just for a key, this is why i always use independant garages for servicing etc dealers can be sooooo expensive. Read more

Hamsafar

www.touchnottingham.com/business/list/bid/2743707

They can usually do them for about £40, on some cars they clone the existing key and transponder, if it's a remote fob too, they usually need the security code and to programme a new remote to the vehicle.

sweep

What's the matter? My Fiesta Zetec 2004 1.4 is making a weird noise when I go over bumps. I wouldn't describe it as a rattle or a knocking, it's more like a squishy, slight knocking noise. hmmm! It seems ok when I am driving pretty fast, it's more at speeds of around 20-30 mph. It's hard to pin down exactly where it comes from. But I feel it's the four wheels, or the back and front in general. It's a bit odd as it used to be better in the heat/dry and worse in wet, but I was out yesterday in rain and it was so annoying, but today it's been dry and almost as bad. I used to not hear it over the radio but I can now, but that's cos I'm listening I guess!

Any ideas?

Thankeeeee


If it's suspension etc do you think it will be covered by warranty, it was reg March 2004, and apparently has a 3yr warranty. Read more

ChicksFan

If it was me, with it no longer being in warranty, I'd leave it. If it develops into anything serious it'll be picked up at MOT time when the car is 3 years old.

SarahB

I have just bought a 5-year-old Y reg Ford Ka with Endura-E engine which has only done 7,500 miles (and has documents to prove it). My owner's manual says the cambelt should be changed every 5 years or 50,000 miles, whichever is sooner. Do I really need to change the cambelt now given the car's very low mileage, or when should I be looking to do it? Read more

mofire

Yeah, I tried to remove the original spark plugs & 'snap' the first one broke off. Unfortunately the car was at my work & on telling my recovery what I'd done they refused to recover me. If I had just said that I'd broken down they would have attended & recovered me to a garage. If you do decide to remove the spark plugs yourself then apply lots of penetrating spray & get the engine hot.

horse

My friend got given a vectra (W reg) by his brother; he accidentally put in too much oil (the dip stick goes up past the max by about the same amount as the distance between the max and the min). Now it takes a few turn s to start and there was a puff of black smoke..

He hasnt got any inspection ramps or anywhere to safely drain away the oil, is it safe to drive the car about 2 miles to the garage to have the oil changed, or will it cause damage..? Read more

Civic8

>>(not sure how they would know though!)

possibly, because the thread allows movement from side to side, so the seal may become slightly offset causing the seal not to reseal in the same place.

They dont always reseal anyway and drip,been there done it,once only though-never again :(
--
Steve