July 2006
How long do you think you can leave parking lights on without discharging the battery to the point of not starting?
They only power the sidelights don't they? I'd imagine it would last a week or so! Read more
Dear all
Looking for some help and advice on a '99 Ford Ka. Bit of a novice with motor-related matters so apologies if this sounds somewhat naive.
Sister's Ka with almost 90,000 miles has developed a worrying smell of something burning around the driver's side wheel arch / wheel itself. Last night she drove it home from work (less than a mile) and the actual wheel hub burnt my fingers when I touched it! It seems to drive fine, and the brakes (recently serviced and passed MOT) show no sign of fade, or squeaks, squeels or other unpleasant noises. Doesn't appear to pull to one side or other when driving. I'm going to take the wheel off - what should I be looking for? Could it be that the wheel wasn't put on again properly?
Thank you for any advice.
AA Read more
Thank you all for your posts.
Scewrloose, I appreciate your post; I'm not that proficient in any case to even start thinking about such a job!!!
The post was really placed just to get an opinion of backroomers so as to have a better idea when I take it to the local garage.
Cheers
Since the battery went flat and the car wouldn't start, I charged the battery and now have a continuous beep inside the car. Do I need to reset something to get rid of this beep?
BTW 1996 Executive Saloon. Read more
Have you re programmed the remote keyfobs after disconnecting the battery?
Is the remote deadlocking working?
Press big button on keyfob & then within 3 seconds little button, Deadlocks are set, windows will shut if left open ( & you have reprogrammed them ) & the alarm system will arm.
The 406 deadlocking remote control has specific button controls, and if the vehicle has two controls, one is set as primary and the other as secondary.
1. Turn the Ignition switch ON.
2. Press the large Plip key button (Primary Plip)
3. Within 10 seconds press the large Plip key button (Secondary Plip)
4. If there is one remote, press the Primary plip button twice.
5. Turn ignition OFF.
6. Test Plip?s for correct operation.
NOTE : On some 406 models, Plips cannot be re-synchronised unless the battery has been disconnected for 1 minute.
Im pretty sure there should be a small key switch hidden by a small black cover inside the boot, I think its on the left hand side.
The owners manual shows a picture of it.
I have a 2003 renault kangoo van 1.5dci, recently I have found it difficult to start when the engine is warm it turns over but will not start it takes 4 or 5 attempts to get it to go. It never happens when the engine is cold and id like to have an idea of what it might be so i dont get shafted at the garage. Any suggestions? Read more
update
I got the van back yesterday and it is still not starting first time when its warm. The garage have changed the crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor and replaced the glow plugs! any suggestions before I take it back?
Morning All.
We will be moving shortly. Once to stay with friends about 200 miles away. And then again when we eventualy find our new home. Now I don't currently have a car. The mrs has a 406 Estate.
So what I was thinking was buy biggest Van I can legally drive on a normal license, use it to move to friends, maybe use it as a 'man with a van' type service whilst we're staying there to generate some dosh for dog food, then use it to for the final move.
Then sell it & get a small car. Maybe. I do have 5 big dogs which we show-maybe it could become the new show wagon?
So, what should I be looking at? Low running costs, low insurance & easy resale value. Or maybe a real cheapy on it's last legs? Dunno. Or maybe I don't really need something colossal-suppose I could stuff sofa's into storage (next door neighbours have a huge Luton thing-get all the sofas etc in there & I know they'd help out) & perhaps one of those people carriers that all the seats come out of?
Advice & thoughts all greatfully received.
--
www.bayingbasset.com
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Could the OP get away with a towavan or similar to tow behind the 406?
They hold their value well and tow very well. I used to work for a trailer hire company, people were towing these with anything from astras etc.
Well, the madness passed, and I've decided against a Merc S Class - www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=42318&...f
In my more sober mood, I've decided that I still want a bit of luxury, so I've come the the conclusion that while an S-class might have some disadvantages, an S-type might be sufficient for me. I've read the car-by-car breakdown and still like them.
Couple of things -
The ones I'm looking at are 2.5V6s, 2003, all about 60K miles. Is that cambelt change time for the car? Does it have a belt or a chain?
Anyone got any experience of them in general?
Anyone who is 6ft 3 or greater got any experience of them? How's the headroom?
Any advice appreciated.
V Read more
Don't worry about a light tappets type noise at the top of the engine (as i did when i bought mine 4 years ago), as it is apparently the 'variable valve timing' (whatever that is) and according to a main dealer's service technician (i.e mechanic to the rest of us) 'they all do that'. Just give the engine a brief rev and the noise goes away. That was four years ago and although occasionally it makes the noise, nothing else has ever happened.
There seems to be a problem with the clutches fitted to the Renault Trafic and other makes of the same van. Mine suffers from intermittent clutch judder when under load, ie on a slope or with weight in the back. It's taken 9 trips to the dealership for them to confirm there is a problem.
Problem is they can't be sure it's the clutch and Renault UK won't pay them a penny for taking it apart to have a look. My van has been off the road for probably 3 weeks over the times it has been in and it's been a right pain in the ****.
I've spoken to Renault UK and they told me I would have to be willing to pay the £600 bill if they open it up and don't find a problem covered by warranty. Something I'm not willing to do as I've already been stung £260 for a similar arrangement to do with a vibrating heater box.
I've been informed by someone in the know that if all the people with a renault trafic that has clutch judder call Renault UK customer services, Renault will agree to undertake the diagnostic work for free so they can get to the bottom of the problem and do a recall if need be.
So all of you with similar problem, please call Renault UK customer services on 0800 072 3372, option2 then option4. Report the judder and I'll keep you informed of progress.
I wouldn't bother going to a dealership to have it looked at as all you'll end up with is alot of time without a van. Also it appears that the dealers aren't reporting the problem to Renault UK so make sure you call them direct on the number above.
Cheers Read more
Similar thread for Vauxhall Vivaro
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=39...5
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Gulp!!
Thanks both; I'll risk it and hang the consequences!
Hawkeye
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Stranger in a strange land
I have just had an 80,000 mile service on my 2003 A4 Avant. I have an extended warranty and was told the diagnostic check had revealed a faulty brake vacuum pump and that it needed replacing. This was duly done under warranty. But after a little think, I realised that I do not know anything about a brake vacuum pump. I have heard of servos but not a vacuum pump. Also. whereas I never heard the old one I now hear a whirring noise when I put my foot on the brake that comes from the new part fitted under the bonnet. Any Backroomer enlighten me as to a brake vacuum pump and should I hear it? Thanks. Read more
I can't help with the Audi pump, but we do have a few problems with the pumps fitted to the VW LT vans I work on. These are camshaft driven via a pushrod, something similar to and old cam driven fuel pump. Like the old fuel pumps, the valving on these 'disconnects' the pump when enough vacuum is created. The pump then sort of 'freewheels'.
On the VW's the first sign of a problem is a knocking noise from the pump when it's 'freewheeling', applying the brake a couple of times loads the pump, and the noise stops.
With a good pump (or exhauster as they used to be called), the vacuum felt by finger at the end of the pipe hardly feels worthwhile, certainly not as good as a petrol engined manifold vacuum, but it does work - just takes a bit longer.
Hello, i was wondering whether anyone could help? i have a 1998 ford focus 1.8 (petrol) and it is acting very bizarrely..... 1) Pre-ignition it has engine noises (pinking) but it starts fine. 2) when the engine is ticking over it idles erratically, even when warmed up. 3) engine is mis-firing throughout the driving speed range, except possibly at high speeds (over about 50mph) and lastly 4) engine hesitates on acceleration.
However it doesn't lack power on acceleration or doesn't stall
has anyone else had a similar problem?
it has been suggested that it might be : clutch (i hope not!!) spark plugs, ignition timing, carburettor problems, distributor or ignition component?
Cheers
Natalie
(someone who resents paying stupid money for diagnostic testing!!)
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Thanks for your help. I might get my trusty Hayne's manual out and give it a go.
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If you want a high visibility parking lamp ( for the rear) how about buying a high vis RED flashing led cycle lamp ( you,ve seen how bright they are ) that takes AAA batteries.
When needed just leave it in the rear parcel shelf at a suitable angle, it will probably last all night & the next, when the batteries go flat just recharge them, cheap & has no effect on the car battery.