March 2009
We have a Nissan Almera 1.5SE 5 door which has been faultless to drive and run over the last 4 years of ownership.
BUT the doors on the nearside have recently started playing up, by that I mean staying locked even when unlocked by central locking, and refusing to open. This has now happened on the front passenger door, which is proving to be a pain, as I could live with the back sticking locked.
The only other thing that is worse which also happens to both nearside doors in the last 4 months is that they also stick UNLOCKED.
Anyone else experienced this, or can anyone offer advice? (I've checked the main car battery, and the remote RCL works perfectly on all other doors.)
Thank you. Read more
And do you use it in day-to-day driving?
A vehicle handbook I read described the red line as 'not suitable for extended periods of operation'.
I'm inclined to put the car through the gears now and again, and the CC3 has already seen the start of the red line, if only for a second.
There's little other point in redlining most of the cars I've driven, as the engine is past both peak power and torque by then.
I suppose this may not apply to high-revving engines/Japanese multi-cylinder motorcycles.
And just to complicate matters, don't some cars have an orange zone on the rev counter as well?
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'chronometric' printed on the face.
Some of my old motorbikes have Chronometric speedometers. One has the rev counter and speedo dials going in opposite directions - at about 70 MPH the speedo. needle points straight up, the rev. counter needle straight down. AFAIK rev. counters have always properly been called tachometers (see also odometer, altimeter, etc.).
A friend of mine is a driving instructor and mentioned that within the next 4 weeks he was looking to change his vehicle...an '06 Golf GT Tdi 3dr in black, with 140k on the clock. It is immaculate, obviously FSH, no accidents, and has to date been faultless. It has a leather interior, but lacks a sunroof and two extra doors which I always prefer! He will be replacing it with a similar model Mk6 Golf.
We both know that the only cost that matters is the 'cost to change'...p/ex values are worthless if you end up paying full list price.So, if he buys from a web based dealer (any recommendations please?) what would be a fair price for me to pay? I only drive 5k pa, but fancy a change after 18 months with my utterly reliable Mazda 626 2.0 SE petrol...I shall only be keeping the car until mid 2010 when my fiance and I wed, when we shall then buy a convertible as a joint wedding present to ourselves, and I would hate to lose too much value in depreciation! Read more
No......all those kangaroo starts and emergency stops etc etc.
Hi I'm new to the forum and hoping that somebody can offer some advice.
I've had my 55 reg 307 2.0 HDI for 2 years now. In that time I've had two replacement EGR valves, the last was 4 months ago on the last day of the car's PUG warranty. However, I'm still having problems. At low revs (<3.000) the car is very unresponsive and feels like if it back fired it would clear the problem. I'm sure it's linked to the EGR valve but the dealer is no longer interested and wants to charge me to diagnose the problem.
Is there an additive I can add to the fuel to try to solve the problem or is it easy enough to clean the EGR valve?
Thanks, Rob Read more
Good point about the MAF. As far as I understand it, the ECU has some default look-up table values that it uses if the MAF is unplugged, so you can unplug it and take the car for a drive. If performance is better with the MAF unplugged, then you can be fairly sure your MAF is faulty. Don't leave it disconnected for long periods though as the ECU reads incoming air temperature from it and this will cause other problems, but I think its OK for a short time to do this.
The MAF can sometimes be cleaned with solvents but it is very delicate . Only sure way of testing is by replacing with a known good one.
Anyone remember the above, around 1999, clarkson said it was OK, but then says but I know what i'd rather have and is seen driving off in a 205 GTI. Read more
There's a big following of these cars, where owners put the 405 or BX Mi16, you can get around 180-200bhp out of these engines, then they do go like stink.
Karma. Read more
I didn't get anywhere with MB or with MB World. The initial enthusiasm of one
of the PRs seems to have been brickwalled.
Could be because Classics Monthly used them as well?!!
I have a clk 230 kompressor 2001 92k on the clock full dealer service history,uneven idling, a misfire maybe had it checked by a auto elcetrician who found a misfire on no2 cylinder after clearing the fault we swapped coils with cylinder 1 and still had mis on no2.so at this point we thought it was a plug so had it serviced ran it from cold semed fine till it warmed up , again a misfire but on 1,2 and 4 this time checked all filter boxes fine, even cleaned the maf sensor with a special cleaner MB say bring it in and they will diagnose it but at their prices not sure i can afford too.engine temp is around 90 and the orange engine management light is on please help bills are mounting martyn sheffield uk
Optional Information:
2001 kompressor avantgarde auto clk 230 k 2300
Already Tried:
changed ignition coil on cylinder 2 with cylinder 1 fault stayed with one ,petrol additive to clean injectors, cleaning mass air filter with cleaning fluid checked all visable wiring for scorches and breaks
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Hello there i had the same prob on my 2000 230 komp at 120,000 miles missing all over the place ,the idling was eratic it turned out the maf sensor was faulty ! i put a new bosch one on problem solved . Aparently according to the merc specialist the diagnostic machine wont always pick up maf sensor faults and mine was really bad could hardly even drive the car .
Is it a simple job to change the glow plugs on my Berlingo multispace.I have had a quick look under the bonnet and it appears that you have to remove quite a few parts to gain access to the glow plugs.Should I attempt myself or is it a job to be entrusted to a local mechanic ? Read more
I have a 2007 Focus 1.6 Zetec and having been looking to buy front brake discs and pads online. There seems to be two sizes of disc around to confuse matters however - 278mm and 300mm. I have removed a wheel and tried measuring the disc as best I can but it is awkward with the hub in the way. My best estimate was that I have the 278mm size BUT one seller on EBay has disc and pad sets listed as - Focus 2 with 15" alloys (278mm discs) and Focus 2 with 16" alloys (300mm discs). As my car has 16" alloys I am now totally confused and do not know which size to go for. Has anyone on here bought discs for a Mk 2 Zetec 1.6 (with 16" alloys) and if so what disc size is the correct one please?? Read more
Interesting post. Four years later I've come up against the same problem trying to buy front discs online for my 2006 Focus Ghia 1.6 VVTi petrol 115ps with 16" wheels. Eurocarparts offer both the 278mm and 300mm diameter front discs for my car. I measured the disc like you did and got close to 278mm. A bit less actually because the outside edge of the disc was badly corroded. I also noted that there is insufficient clearance between the rim of the disc and the caliper carrier bracket for a 300mm diameter disc. Therefore for my car with a 16" wheel it's definitely the 278mm disc.
last night my rev counter stopped working then my speedo then all other fuel gauge etc. now the car wont start even bump do you think my battery is u/s and shorting? the alternator looks new Read more
well it seems to be working fine although i did get the battery light flick on today but i think its down to the 2 wired plug once i sort this all should be fine even the rev counter :)
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Hi,
I've got exactly the same problem, but with the drivers door....