August 2006
317 mph in a JCB! Pity the ones with buckets aren't as quick.
www.jcbdieselmax.com/html/home.php
More remarkable is the engines and gearboxes are all JCB manufactured and used in their everyday vehicles.
Quarter of a mile turning circle isn't too convenient though.
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Sometime (post-launch of the new MINI) I'm thinking of acquiring a MINI Cooper. Whilst I know its a very good car in it's own right (handling, styling etc etc)...my biggest potential reason for buying it will be because with my own money (£12k-ish) will be for residuals and running costs - with such decent performance AND mpg of combined 48, it would seem ideal (except I'll miss the space of my Focus should I do it). I'd obviously pay for the service pack - but which other options from Cd-changer to Sat Nav to keyless entry are likely to recoup some of their value do you think? And will the MINI continue to enjoy such high residuals??? Read more
Yep: Chilli pack, aircon, CD player, plus a few 'nice to haves' that will let you enjoy the car even more, and make it a bit more distinctive when you come to sell.
Sorry - I know this has been discussed before, but I couldn't find the thread.
Believe it or not, two people are interested in coming to see my car tomorrow.
I don't have 'any driver' on the car's insurance policy - the people need to show me they have third party cover to drive other vehicles before they get behind the wheel of my car, don't they? Or am I being super paranoid? (Don't worry - they are both young women who are coming to see him, but if they bring anyone else with them I will be taking Dad/other half with me on the test drive...might do so anyway if they don't mind)
Is there an ideal wording for a receipt, or is it enough to just write the amount, name, car, date and time? Someone at work said I should write 'sold as seen', but surely that's obvious?
One of the people said that they were very interested and have the cash to bring with them. That being the case, and if they like it, they can take the car with them that day can't they? I have a vague recollection of having to wait a couple of days when I bought my first car but that might have been because I had to get a bankers draft and that took a day or two. If I get one of those pens that checks the notes and complete the right bits of the V5, the car is theirs immediately, isn't it?
Thank you!
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- but if they look after
it and keep it for a long time it may not
lose too much.
and thats so polite it hurts...............
polos on this age fall to bits
they are made in spain
they are rotten
they suffer all types of gremlins from bodywork to engine /gearbox maladies
the girl dun gud,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but i wouldnt answer the phone over the bank holiday period...................
hello its mr ikarea i dont know if you remember me but i bought a volkswagon polo off you and we are having a bit of a problem............................................
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mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Car:
Nissan Micra 1997 1.0 Shape
48,000 miles
Symptoms:
Sitting inside the car, with the gearbox in neutral and the clutch out, I can hear a knocking noise that keeps time with the engine speed. When I depress the clutch the knocking noise disappears. In fact I only have to push the clutch pedal a very little and the knocking noise disappears.
The knocking noise can be heard when driving, and doesn't disappear once the engine is warm. If I depress the clutch while driving the knocking noise disappears.
I've listened to the engine and can't hear any obvious 'wrong' noises.
I bought the car without a service history (yes I know!) and so I don't know what work, if any, has been done on the car.
Could this be a worn clutch? There is quite a bit of vibration coming through the clutch pedal and, as mentioned, I only have to push the clutch pedal a very little for the knocking noise to stop.
Anything else this could be?
Thanks. :-)
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Idler gear rattle!!!(reverse gear idler)
My wife has a 54 reg low mileage corsa, it's had a knocking (when driving over rough surface or drains etc), coming up from the front nearside ever since we picked it up. Taken it back under warranty, they can't find the problem. I've had the wheels and calipers off and isolated the knocking to the Anti-roll bar but can't find anything obvious going on. Any Ideas?..... Thanks. Read more
Got a techy to come out onto a rough bit of ground, he agreed either roll bar OR steering rack. They ended up replacing the rack under warranty - job done. mind you, the whole front end feels tighter, even the gear stick feels tight again???.
Morning all,
Quick question on behalf of afriend who drives a Jag XJ8, model year 2000, 103k.
Above 80 a high frequency vibration has started to affect the cabin, and as he munches alot of miles on he Autobahn this is a bit of a problem.
Any ideas? He thinks it might be a wheel bearing.
Thanks,
Barchettaman Read more
On the series 3 XJ12 the spring bearing that supports the back of the engine/gearbox can be assembled several ways. Only one way is right, and one of the signs of incorrect assembly is vibration from under the seats. When the rubber damper bush fails you get a clonk under your seat when driving off. This also applies to XJSs with the GM400 box. The BW box on earlier cars has a different arrangement.
1990 Civic stumbles while driving along, then comes right. Sometimes engine light comes on but indicates O2 sensor. This is not the true problem though. Have by-passed the Pump relay and swapped dizzy. No fix. Seems like fuel. Do pumps go bad intermittantly? This fault appears erratically. Any ideas? Read more
It's Monday again and the DT Saturday edition has penetrated deepest rural France.
I read in DT Motoring that the latest Lexus - described as unmemorable - has an eight-speed autobox and spends its life changing up and down for no apparent good reason.
I see many recent cars have six manual gears.
Just how many ratios do we need?
My present Hondas have: 1, a four-speed auto with lock-up overdrive and sport mode which I don't use because it works perfectly well without; 2, a four-speed auto with lock-up overdrive and 'sequential sport mode' for manual use, which i don't bother with very often. It, too, works well.
My first automatic had a Hondamatic box with low, 'star' - in which it would do 0-100mph without apparent stress - and a selectable overdrive.
Do we really need all this complication? Surely it would be better to have lots of torque - or a good torque converter - and just a few gears to make life easier?
We don't all need to pretend we are F1 drivers do we? Read more
In my youth I drove a Ford Prefect 100E which had just 3 gears. In comparison to a Morris Minor, which had 4, the Ford's gears corresponded roughly 1st, 2nd and 4th. - So in the Prefect you got into top (3rd) at 20-25 mph and stayed there!
Also used to drive a Leyland Super Comet 16 tonner that had 10 speeds (5-speed non-synchromesh main gearbox and 2-speed diff).
But my mountain bike's got 18 gears although some combinations are redundant like chainwheel 1st / sprocket 6th!
Hope someone can help give me an idea on this one.
I have a 1992 Mazda 323 1.6i. There is a starting problem where I have to crank the engine for quite a few seconds before it reluctantly starts. Rather than immediatly going to the right revs it slowly coughs it's way up to about 1200rpm. At other times it starts immediatly and goes straight up to the correct initial revs. It always starts however. Any ideas?
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Oldman - Thanks for the advice: I opened the oil filler cap this morning once the car was running normally. There was a very slight change in the note of the engine but it continued to run fine. I could hear the gurgling of the oil and there was a v small amount of oil droplets splashing out. Can you (or anyone else) help identify the problem/solution with these symptoms?
This clip from India is a classic; somehow this regularly busy junction sorts itself out without incident.......
video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=-2063667852598904740 Read more
Previously posted here:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=41767
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They don't have any suspension IIRC.