August 2010
My granddaughter has a VW POlo 1.4 07 plate. Has been happily using it since May. Two days ago she went to take the car out and found that although she had released the handbrake thye car refused to budge. She phoned garage who said " it's because of the rain, trey rocking it " She phoned me and I went round to have a look. As she said the car was impossible to move. Eventually we got thh VW people out and they freed it up but couldn't guarantee that this wouldn't happen again. They suggested leaving it parked in gear with the handbrake off! My grandaughter is now somewhat reluctant to drive the car . The mechanic still mentioned rain as a probable cause of the problem. I find this disturbing. Surely no car's handbrake operation should be affected by a little rain let alone a relatively new VW. Are you aware of this problem. I would appreciate your advice.
Thanks... Read more
My golf is virtually 4 years old - mileage 35000 - when should the cam belt be replaced Read more
There are people who err towards safety and those who take unesserssary wrisks ,with the average cost of a belt change probably around £250 and the cost of a new engine at many thousands of pounds I know which course I would take.Theory is all very well but its the real world that counts.
Hi all
I have just bought a second hand nissan micra for my wife. I have bought insurance yesterday, the car came with a year's mot and tax till the end of the month.... Read more
i have the pleasure to let you know that i manage to tax the vehicle only with those 3 docs:
mot certificate, motor insurance certificate and the V5C/2....
Hi,
Can anyone help with this one?... Read more
So what was the outcome of all this?
I have to look after a 1.7 DTI, which sounds very healthy to diesel enthusiasts, but painful to my ears....
My 55 plate sxi 1.2, only done 19000mls and has code p0100,so decided to replace the maf with another new bosch one.Still same problem,Car drives fine at first, then when its switched off,EML light comes on when started again on 1st start or sometimes 2nd,revs drop to about 500rpm on tickover and is very jerky at low revs,i can clear codes again,then its ok (though tick over is still jumps between 500&700rpm) and performs fine till i switch off and back on EML is on again.Read more
I know there have been similar problems with some astras and vectras,and that you can re earth the the maf,i have had a look at the wiring to the maf and there are 5 wires blue,red,white,yellow and green,i know on the astra and vectras the yellow wire is the earth,can any one tell me if this is the same for the corsa?
Btw tried a multi meter on the plug to the maf and get the following on each of the five pins.. 0 volts/5 volts/0 volts/14 volts/5 volts seems a bit erratic, anyone have any ideas, any help would be appreciated.Thanks in advance
Big 1 was about right.
there is a technical bulliten for a modyfied wiring harnes to overcome connection issues to the MAF on the 1.2 engine. Very common problem....
I have a 2001 Nissan Micra K11 1.0. I've been experiencing really poor engine performance recently. It would start easy enough and idle OK, either cold or hot, but would not rev when I pressed the throttle, and was virtually impossible to drive as there was just no power. I tried replacing the fuel pump, but that made no difference. I then tried disconnecting the Mass Air Flow Meter, and the engine sprang to life and the car drove fine. I took out the MAF, and found that if I reconnected it when it was away from the air flow through the throttle body the engine response was fine, but I got the old symptoms of no power or revs as soon as I fed it back into the throttle body. A good clean with electrical contact cleaner on the exposed parts of the MAF has made a big difference, but it is still not quite right. Can you please suggest anything else I might need to do? Am I right in thinking the problem is with the MAF only, or might there also be a problem with the ECU? Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated Read more
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Hello All,
Since getting this car 9 months or so ago I have done about 22k miles over which time I have noticed a steadily worsening vibration.
At low speeds on a smooth glassy road surface all is well though if the surface is coa*** then a vibration is felt. At high speeds there is a kind of thrum through the car. Larger bumps etc are handled well.
The suspension etc has been given a clean bill of health.
More recently there has been a kind of chattering noise between gears and a rattle when traversing sharp bumps, rumble strips etc.
The inner CV joints are showing signs of wear, when grasping either driveshaft and pulling it back and forth it pivots around the outer CV joint as the inner joint moves by a few mm and clicks at the same time. This would explain the chattering noise between gears and the rattle however I want to be clear that this may also explain the vibration.
My theory is that on a smooth surface the CV joint is rotating smoothly though small, high frequency movements in the suspension caused by a course road surface induce movement in the CV joints which is felt as vibration.
Does this all make sense?
Thanks. Read more
It can't like the word a r s e then and is zapping the whole word.
Did the original problem get cured but the link failed due to poor work? Hope it's all fixed so you can enjoy the car again....
My i10 is beginning to give me starting problems, intermittently. It’s a March 2010 model and only 600 miles on the clock. I mainly do short runs but have taken it on a 40 miles long run at varying speeds to give it a boost, so to speak. Still had difficulty starting this morning as it cranked for a while before starting. This has happened about 4 times in the past two weeks. Have switched to the spare car key for ellimination purposes, but without luck.
... Read more
Thanks for your response galileo.
I was tempted by the scrappage scheme and this car was real value for money car. I do use it fairly regularly for short runs, so taxis are not an option. The problem has been fixed by the dealer, hopefully for good. See my response to 19ja43....
Hands up anyone who has experienced problems with alarm on Antara going off intermittently day and night. All suggested fixes to date have not worked (including a known problem being "resolved" at local dealers.
Help please Read more
I HAVE RECENTLY HAD ISSUES WITH THE ALARM ON MY 57 REGISTERED ANTARA CONTACTED VAUXHALL CUSTOMER CARE AS HAD INITIALLY HAPPENED ON TWO OCCASIONS LAST YEAR DURING HOT WEATHER THEN CORRECTED IT SELF AT TIME THE VEHICLE WAS IN WARRANTY, BUT BELEIVING ACTIVATIONS WERE ISOLATED INCIDENTS DECIDED NOT TO TAKE UNDER WARRANTY TO MY LOCAL VAUXHALL DEALER (BIG MISTAKE).
ALARM ACTIVATIONS STARTED AGAIN IN JULY THIS YEAR AND THIS TIME HAS CONTINUED . I CONTACTED VAUXHALL CUSTOMER CARE WHO SAID NEEDED TO BE LOOKED AT BY VAUXHALL DEALERSHIPFOR INSPECTION EVEN THOUGH IT IS CLEAR ITS IS A SENSOR FAULT....
I am thinking of buying privately a Merc CLK 230 Elegance Coupe. Its being sold locally for £3300 and it has done 102,000 miles. According to the blurb it is absolutely immaculate throughout (the photos back this up) and been meticulously maintained from new.
So, my question is: before I view it, are there any known problems I should look out for, is the price right and how reliable are they?... Read more
Thank You all for your informative replies. Sadly, when I went to see it, it had been sold!
However, it was still there for me to look at and it was as much as I could do to stop dribbling. What a lovely car....
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We have the same car and I can tell you exactly what the problem is.
The problem is caused by corrosion on the moving surfaces of the brake shoes themselves. The root cause is because there is no copper grease applied during manufacture. After a couple of years mild corrosion sets in and the shoes do not move freely. It is worse if the car is left for several days. The solution is to remove the rear brake shoes and have them cleaned (or replaced - the set is about £20 at euro car parts) and then have some copper grease applied to the moving parts....