I have been given a LWB High-top Maxus van whilst my VW Transporter is in for service.

The LDV is appalling! It has done only 5000 miles and is the second one of these I have driven and the first was just as bad. Awful gearchange, turbo kicks in at the wrong time, naff interior, controls all over the place. Mirrors are rubbish, engine is noisy, radio is like an old transistor thing, it's like been put in the driving seat of a Mk1 Transit but without the presitigious badge.

I have absolutely nothing positive to say about this van at all.

Bring back my lovely Transporter asap PLEASE!!!! Read more

hello, just wondered if anyone has had anything similar, my mums grand voyager wont start because of the immobiliser (we believe) both key fobs are not working, so she opens doors manually with key but when it comes to start the vehicle the immobiliser always cuts in? we have tried changing battery in both fobs, but neither work, so the poor vehicle is sat on her driveway not able to start. Just wondered if anyone knew the best way to sort the problem out? we can't take it down to chrysler garage as its auto and wont tow? Read more

***Erratic idle, stalling, loss of power, fouled plugs, fuel starvation symptoms, fluctuating revs, surging, engine management light lit, running rich ***

I had all of the above problems with a 2001 (51 reg) Nissan Micra 1.0 SE. The car would run ok until it was warm and then all hell would break loose. Got a local mechanic to check the car over and he advised giving it a service to start with as the plugs were fouled. The car ran like a dream after a minor service and clean of the airbox but this lasted for 2 weeks and then the problems started again and the infamous engine management light was permanently lit.

Took it to garage who plugged it into a diagnostic computer but there were no codes stored. Waste of £25.

Also, read that this can be caused by incorrect spark plugs, so off to the Nissan dealers {note, now spelt correctly, and not the slang version! - DD} for correct plugs but problem still existed.

In the end decided to go for the Air Flow Meter/Throttle Body. The company which supplied the remanufactured AFM had only sent it with 2 of the 3 sensors attached. After calling them they advised that we should use the 3rd sensor from our faulty AFM/TB.

After fitting the AFM/TB and missing sensor the car ran ok till warm but then the symptoms started again. Called the company who supplied the part (who's company test-ECUs) and they arranged to send out the 3rd sensor at no additional cost. Next morning, replaced the sensor, warmed up the car and hey presto it runs like new again! Disconnected the battery and after reconnecting the engine management light no longer appears.

From my own experience I suggest if you experience the problems listed above to get down your local scrap-yard and try the sensor that fits to the unit (its controls the idle apparently). If this fails, I'd try a 2nd hand AFM/TB to confirm that is at fault. The scrap-yards we did visit in Birmingham were happy for us to test their part and only to pay if it cured the problem - definitely worth trying to diagnose the problem, unless you fancy shelling out the best part of £300-500 bills on a remanufactured one only to find out it isn?t at fault. Hope you find this useful and it saves you time.
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I understand that the MZR-CD engine is the same in whole or in part as the TDCI in the Mk3 Mondeo. Having seen how much trouble these seem to be causing backroomers, should I expect the same issues with a Mazda engine? Or do Mazda sensibly use their own pump and injectors? Read more

Hi,

Today I turned the engine off on my 307 1.4 and went to turn it on 5 minutes later,on the computer the message "anti pollution fault" came on,the engine felt very lumpy and has also lost its power,its an 05 and done 43000 kms,its up to date with its service with the last one being at 40000 kms,can anyone advice me,is this major.pricewise. Read more