July 2005
This mower is under 3 years old and is clean with very low mileage (small garden!).
I was away last w/e and Mrs S said it felt like it was running short of fuel - it starts to rev itself when it is. (The engine runs at same revs whether clutch is engaged or not).
So she filled with unleaded from our usual can - not dirty. The mower now idles and runs roughly, with black puffs of smoke from exhaust, and the plug is wet sooty. I'm assuming this is rich mixture.
I've taken off the air filter which is not clogged and it runs the same without it so I don't think clogged air filter is the cause.
It seems to run OK for the first 30 seconds then go into this lumpy mode. I'm wondering if the fuel supply is restricted (dirty maybe), but can't see how to get at it without going beyond my scope. I hear that putting it in for a service will cost half the original cost of the mower...!
Any quick hints or tips please?
Mods - please feel free to move this to IHAQ is that is the right place... Read more
We have just acquired a Ford with 2.0lt Zetec engine. It was bought privately and as the oil level was slightly low, I topped it up with Ford Spec. E oil 5W/30 as recommended by Ford.
The service history has now been sent on and although the first two services were at Ford Dealers, the latest was at a garage who used Magnatec.
I feel I should now drain and refill, but with what?
My inclination is to use the Ford oil as I seem to remember reference on this site to valves sticking if any other oil is used.
If I do this should it be flushed in any way after draining the mixed Magnatec and Ford oil currently in the sump?
Any advice would be welcome
Thanks. Read more
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=33...1
Have a look here !
I've got a 2002 1.2 SXi Corsa (still under warranty). This morning whilst driving to work it appeared I lost all power to the speedometer, rev counter, petrol gauge etc. This happened at least 10 times, but only for 2 seconds or so at most before they would return to 'normal'. Nothing else appeared to be affected - not lights, not radio.
Any ideas whats wrong? A fuse somewhere perhaps? The battery? Read more
A trip to a Vauxhall dealer & spend £12 on the moddified electrical connector block for the instrument panel will cure dodgy Corsa instrument electrics.
Does using the DVLA website to report an untaxed car actually work?
There's a car near me which is used every day whose tax ran out at the end of May. I've reported it twice over the past fortnight to the DVLA website now and nothing appears to have happened.
Of course, the car may well be registered at a different address, but surely something could be done about it.
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i always use the dvla website to report untaxed cars i check first to see that it hasnt fallen out of the window,go on the website see if its showing as taxed then go to the rac website look for last change of keeper and if it doesnt all match then i report them on line to the dvla,everytime i get a result within 2 weeks and the cars are either taxed or in one case it was removed by the council contractor.Personally i think it comes down to the local area that you live in mines west yorkshire and they seem to have a zero tolerance which is good ,why should i have to tax 3 vehicles per year plus trade plates and other drivers pay nothing it doesnt wash with me
My Dad has a 1998 Ford Mondeo and has a problem with the central locking in so much as the front passenger door will not lock when using the remote. He can only lock the passenger door by physically using the key in the lock - this then locks all of the other doors as expected. If he disconnects the multi plug on the front passenger door locking mechanism, all the doors except the front passenger door will lock OK with the remote. With it connected the doors lock and then immediately unlock when operating with the remote. He has tried replacing the motor but this hasn't fixed the problem. Any ideas please?
{amended to make use of drop down menus that previosuly weren't in operation when the post was first penned} Read more
I have a 94 Mondeo, where the central locking has not been working for a while. Yesterday I was determined to find the error. Result:
There was a join of 3 wires (powersupply Orange coming from Fuse25, Orange/Blue going to the right front CL unit, and Orange/Black going to the left CL unit, page 12*53 in my Haynes manual) that was defect. This join is in my car (steering wheel on left side) located under the floor-mat under front part of the passenger seat (right side of the car). Not sure if the harness system is identical for UK-cars...
Apparently some moisture had been working with this join, now it was only some copper rust left.
As it is difficult to find this join (I needed to take out the seat), you could check the following first:
Check Fuse25.
Take off the plug at the CL unit on the affected door and check there is 12V supply between the Orange/Blue and the Black cables. (Use a testlamp, not a voltmeter as a bad connection might still feed enough current to make the voltmeter return a rather high reading). If you have good voltage there the join should be fine. If not, and the fuse is OK, I suggest you check out the join...
Good luck!
I Have recently purchased a pug 205gti 1.9 to re live our youth car in lovely condition not been played with and lots of tickets also. One thing i am finding is it for no apprent reason sometimes just will not start turns over but just will not fire changed all plugs and distributor and rotary arm. you can then go to it 5 mins later and it will start 100 times over but will just then cut out with out any warning seems something electrical to me any ideas from you guys really appreciated before i head for the garage thanks Neal
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The fuel pump relay on my 1990 GTi is under the drivers side dash,in front of the injection ECU.The panel has to be removed under the dash to see the relay.The relay is a push fit.
I think earlier models had the relay under the bonnet in a box below the battery.
When I visited my Peugeot Dealer I was told the relay had been modified and they required the part number of the existing unit. As I did not have any tools with me and the lower panel was still in place I managed to see the reference number by laying with my back on the seat, my legs in the air and my head under the dash!
When my relay was confirmed as being the problem I managed to make a small wiring loom that plugged into the lighter socket and connected to the fuel pump under the back seat, which enabled me to drive to the Dealer for a replacement.There are some dangers in providing power direct to the pump so it should only be used in an emergency.
I first had the problem after leaving the battery connected to a charger/conditioner for a week. Before I could identify the reason why the engine would not fire, as I checked for a spark and fuel pressure, the engine fired and ran perfectly for about a year.The second time was after returning to my car with shopping from the supermarket. The engine would not fire.After the assistance of the RAC it was confirmed as the relay and I was towed home.
Since the relay has been changed I have not had anymore trouble.
The other day I needed a new tyre for my car it was 175/50/14.
The cheapest price quoted to replace it is around £65!
Apparently the reason for this is, it is a rare size and now only Pirelli (sp) make them now, so the prices are really high, and might go higher in the furture (well what doesn't eh?.
I've decided that changing the size of all the tyres might be a good move in the future.
I'm just wondering what size to change to? I can't find any 175/55/14 around but there are a large selecion of 175/60/13 tyres around (and cheaper) but i'm wondering if the extra profile will affect the car?
Anyone know if this is likely, or have other suggestions of size?
Kind regards
Martine Read more
If you are getting a real difference in tread wear across the tyre, with the middle of the tyre still having sevaral mm's of depth and the edges near bald then it suggests that the pressures are too low.
My Mk4 TDI Golf is due for a 60K service in the next month or so. At 60K miles the Cambelt is due for replacement and I intend to get this done.
I've read a little of Golfs having problems with the water pump as the plastic breaks down over time.
As the cambelt needs to be replaced and this is quite a bit of work is it worth getting the pump done at the same time? Any ideas on how much this might cost?
thanks in advance...
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Hi,
Recently I had the cambelt changed on my 99 Pasat TDi at VW dealer and I requested the water pump to be changed at the same time, VW charge £26 + VAT for the pump, PART NO 028121004X, very reasonable I think and most VW/Audi models from 1997 on use the same pump.
Paul
W reg 106, the rear screen washer doesn't work. I can't hear the pump running, do I need to replace the pump or is there a fuse/relay for this circuit and if so where do I find it.
Cheers
Chris Read more
Thanks All
It was a loose relay, one was clipped in the bracket above the fuses behind the glove box. 3 more relays were unattached and it was one of these - the car has been owned since new so was probably a Friday afternoon special.
Chris
We live near an arched railway bridge - 10' 6" clearance at the centre. Signs well before the bridge informing drivers of this, recently installed luminescent yellow paint around the edge of the arch, reflective strips everywhere, road markings indicating wagons to use the middle of the road.
Traffic chaos this morning, roads closed, helicopter buzzing around, railway passengers waiting at the roadside, road under bridge closed. Why? Because a wagon had got stuck!
A charge of driving without due care and attention may focus such wagon driver's minds!
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That is the way I have always understood it to be,otherwise it would be a race to see who gets there first,the way a lot of drivers seem to treat the situation.I think there is an exception on hills,where the vehicle travelling uphill has priority.
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gave mine some redex as atreat.and i am sure it did it good