December 2002
I have noticed since i bought my new 306 (about 2 weeks ago) that when the fan is on low speed and i go round a left hand corner the fan squeels (quite high pitched).. (& very annoying)
This only happens when the car goes round a left hand bend,
- it doesnt matter what speed the car is going
- it doesnt matter where the temperature dial is (HOT/COLD Dial)
- it doesnt matter where the air direction dial is (ON FEET/ IN FACE/ ON SCREEN Dial )
- it doesnt matter if the air con is on/off
It only squeels when in the OFF position or when on low speed
I have a 1998/ R reg 306, if anyone knows what this could be then i would be very thankful.
Thanx In Advance
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Anyone know the proper tyre pressures for a 96N Rover 416i with 185/60R14 tyres fitted. A neighbour has bought one and doesn't have the handbook. Thanks. Read more
Now I'm seriously worried...
Just been and looked at the Michelin site, it recommends the tyres which I'm already using, but the tyre pressures are dramatically different.
Normally I run at F29 R33, fully laden it's F33 R47.
Michelin tells me F29 R32, but - laden F30 R32!
Have they got it right?? I sometimes carry 4x 47kg gas cylinders in my boot, the back tyres look ever so poorly until they're pumped up over 45psi...
Merry Xmas to all,
I am looking to spend up to £2000 on a secondhand turbo diesel car. I need it to be in the Escort to Mondeo size range and a 5 door hatchback.
Any suggestions please? Read more
Citroen ZX TD Advantage. Buy with full history from a caring private owner and you'll have a super car. If you must have a Pug 306 but you'll be getting a slightly more sporting biased version of the same car and it'll likely be more money for a worse car.
MM
As from today, Friday December 27, there'll be no official moderator in The Back Room for a fortnight, while Mark has a well-earned break.
Please try to post your messages to the correct group. If you have a problem with the forum which you're unable to resolve on your own, please email either me or Honest John, and one of us will try to respond as soon as we can.
Happy New Year
Martyn [Back Room moderator]
====================
mailto:webmaster@honestjohn.co.uk Read more
As from today, Friday December 27, there'll be no official moderator in The Back Room for a fortnight, while Mark has a well-earned break.
Please try to post your messages to the correct group. If you have a problem with the forum which you're unable to resolve on your own, please email either me or Honest John, and one of us will try to respond as soon as we can.
Happy New Year
Martyn [Back Room moderator]
====================
mailto:webmaster@honestjohn.co.uk Read more
But, before you get excited, one of us will be looking. But moderation will be brutal if it is required at all.
Troublesome threads will disappear and troublesome registrations will be disabled - I'll sort out the details when I'm back.
Hi,
I have a Rover 216 (1996 new line) i'd like to know if anyone know where could I find data about "pressure of the screws of the head gasket" and a little diagram of the engine.
Thanks,
Christian Read more
Christian,
I don't have the information that you need but I thought I'd reinforce Sam's point that the bolts have to be tightened in a specific order. This is VITAL. The tightening sequence is roughly 'from the centre of the head outwards' but you do need to find out the exact order as specified by Rover.
Regarding the tightening procedure, the 15 lbf is to settle everything down (i.e. to squeeze out any air, etc., between the components). The next stage (1/2 turn) puts everything into compression. The final stage (another 1/2 turn) stretches the bolt to a specific point within its elastic limit so that it acts like a spring. If the bolt is turned less than 360 degrees in total (on top of the 15 lbf) it won't be clamping the head tightly enough; if it is turned more than this, it may go past its elastic range and break.
No need to be sorry for your English. I'm sure it's better than the Spanish of most of us here! I learnt Argentinian-Spanish technical terms for my work many years ago involving Perkins diesel engines built under licence in Argentina. I can't remember much of it now but it's a lovely language and I wish I had kept up with it.
I am thinking of changing my Citroen Xantia 1.8lx but need something capable of towing my touring caravan.
I only use the caravan approx 4 times a year with the furtherest distance travelled being around 250 miles.Therefore i normally opt for petrol models rather than deisel for the better performance whilst not towing.
Could anyone recommend an good allround car to suit my needs, i have been considering either a 2.0 Vectra or Laguna around 3 years old.
My caravan is a Hobby Prestige 460 with an unladen weight of 1100kgs.
Read more
Superchips now do a re-map of the ECU for the C5
2.0HDI pulling it up to 130bhp.
130 BHP!!
That's the same as my 2.0L 16v Petrol Xantia!!!
Do they do one that ups this car as well? I'll have a look.
H
Can anyone offer any guidance about how much lower a main dealer would be prepared to sell a used car than the the asking price?
Picking a random example, a VW dealer is offering an X-reg 1.8 SE Passat for around 9300 pounds. This is very similar to the amount quoted by the valuation service on the AA website as a dealer asking price for that model/age. The AA website gives a value about 1700 pounds lower as the maximum trade-in price that the dealer would pay for that car. Any idea how much of this margin a dealer would be prepared to lose (probably depends on several factors, but any general guidance would be appreciated...)? Read more
Thanks for the info, this is v useful advice! The comment
about the sales people having targets to meet is interesting -
are the targets set on a per calendar month basis typically
or do they sometimes cover some other period (eg quarter year?)
The dealerships I worked for have monthly targets. Obviously they are under pressure to turn over as much stock as they can. In addition, the salesman will be on some sort of commission and maybe a bonus if he exceesd his personal target or a bonus for the dealership if they exceed their targets.
When you first make contact with the dealer you'll find that the same salesman will deal with you until a sale is closed. This is because they 'own' the opportunity to sell to you. Most of their income is made up of sales commission, so the territory within the showroom is clearly defined.
It's pot luck whether or not you actually get on with the salesman and are able to strike up a banter with him. I find that there are salesmen and women that I can really get to work for me and are on my side, and others that I cannot make any progress with at all. Use the good opportunities, but don't waste too much time on the bad ones, unless they get you what they want.
H
Half past four this morning I was heading down the M1/M25 to Heathrow.
Very little traffic, no fog/mist/spray/roadworks, good visibility. Flashing
lights recommend 50 mph. Turn onto M25, same conditions same flashing lights.
Why? My understanding is that they are advisiory and not compulsary. As I
kept up a steady 70ish speed could I have been done by the bill? Read more
Matt,
There is a Joke Thread. Since you couldn´t be bothered to find it and add your note there, I decided that neither could I and deleted it.
I ordered a new Alfa 156 GTA in May 02, and was told 12-16weeks for delivery. Im now expecting the car in Feb / March. (If im lucky!). I know this is a niche car but this is farcical, I only wish I didnt really want one! Has anyone else had similar problems, car makers seem totally unbothered by the problems these delays cause
Read more
Well I haven't shouted at all ! I love my current 330 and was being "forced" to change it by the leasing company. If it means keeping mine for another couple of months - hopefully the new version of the 330 will be out by then.
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No-one seems to want to try this one! I have suffered squealy fan-motors in 205s, but not in a 306. In a 205 it is simple to remove 3 screws hanging the motor under/behind the glovebox, empty out any leaves/other rubbish, and lubricate the motor bearing with a drop of oil and WD40 (which reminds me - I need to do this).
The description in the 306 Haynes manual sounds similar, but suggests that more trim (panels/glovebox) may have to be removed to get at things.