June 2002
Hi there, I have just fitted a cigarette lighter into a 12v car which picks up a constant 12v feed and is protected by its own in-line fuse. Does anybody know what would be a suitable rating of fuse that it should be protected by?
Any thoughts are welcome. Read more
Hi
I'd like to remove the dealer sticker from the inside of the back window of my car but I'm worried about screwing this up as the sticker sits over some of the heated rear window elements.
Any advice as to how to remove the sticker and residue without damaging the heated window elements - e.g. would using something like a hair-dryer to heat up the glue help?
Thanks Read more
This stuff is brilliant. It's based on a citrus oil and works miracles.
Terry
My neighbour's Omega ('94, 3.0 elite) has just had a coolant leak sorted out by replacing a leaking 3-way heater valve. It was also serviced at the same time. The mechanic (a Vx specialist) noted that the car had more than it's fair share of oil leaks (none of which were serious - rocker cover gaskets?) and that oil leaks were quite common on the 2.5/3.0 V6's and his advise was just to keep an eye on the oil level as fixing them would be fairly expensive.
However, one annoying and sometimes embarrassing leak seems to dribble a few drops of oil onto the manifold (drivers side bank) which results in smoke appearing from under the bonnet similar to a "boil". This doesn't happen all the time, only when the engine has got particularly hot, not overheated though and wasn't happening when the car was being serviced.
Apart from being a pain in the neck, is this dangerous?
Chad.R
Read more
Kev,
After much reading on this site I decided my problem must be something to do with the breather system and I took the Omega to a main VX dealer for confirmation.
To cut a long..... the Dealer had it fixed the following day and had fitted couple of new bits to the breather system £195 total cost !!. The car is running really well once again.
My regret is that I just didn't to this seemingly simple work myself as I consider myself usually to be more than competant and experienced. I guess lazyness and expediency took over !!. However, the bill will serve as a reminder for next time
Cheers,
Hi
I have been reliably informed that my car (mazda mx6)has a non interference engine.
Now I take it that this means that should the cambelt (timing) belt snap, then the pistons won't touch the valves.
Firstly is this correct?
If so, why should I bother to change the cambelt, if its not going to damage the engine?
Are there any other cars out there which have non interference engines?
Thanks
Jonathan Read more
Thanks Mark
I own a Peugeot 306 1.6 XS (96N). I was wondering if anyone could help to identify a noise that appears to come from the front of the car.
The noise occurs when turning at slow speed with about 3/4 lock or more applied while accelerating (eg car parks, mini roundabouts, etc. The noise is a continuous, whining/grumbling noise (ie not a clicking CV joint type noise). It never occurs when the accelerator is not pressed, regardless of speed or amount of steering applied, and this applies whether the car is under engine braking or coasting. The volume/noticeability generally increases as the amount of lock and/or speed increases. Interestingly, the noise also only seems to be present once the car is warmed up.
When driving in slippery conditions recently, the same noise was made when the front wheels accelerated at different speeds without any steering lock applied - so it may be related to the front wheels turning at different speeds, just as they do when turning, particularly in tight circles.
The noise has been present for the last 10k miles (done since early February, until then it had covered 38k miles) but has not increased in severity over that time. There are also sometimes slight hesitations when accelerating through the rev range in 2nd, although this is still brisk and torquey from low revs and I do not believe the performance or handling characteristics of the car are impaired. The hesitations may or may not be related but I thought I would note them.
After a test drive, a Peugeot dealer suggested it was the power steering pump but I am dubious of this as the noise is present under certain conditions when there is no steering and it is only ever present when the car is accelerating.
Any help appreciated, many thanks in advance,
Keith Read more
Hi, I have the exact same problem as Richard A. Can you/anybody confirm that it is the power steering pump? No mecanic wants to agree with me that it could be this pump.
"will not let Peugeot UK touch it"
aren't we good enough then?
Oh dear - I fear big trouble ahead....
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org Read more
Interesting.....we had a 406 HDi (90BHP model) brought into us yesterday with total and utter electrical failure - caused by a blown 50A maxi-fuse in the engine compartment fusebox.....turned out the starter had 'kicked in' whilst the car was in motion and burnt itself out....nasty. The drive pinion of the motor was practically melted.
New starter fitted and a new fuse and all was well. Everything checked out OK, all we can summise is that the solenoid short-circuited...
Time will tell!
I have a three month old C5 with automatic gearbox which is the third auto car I have driven. I find the changing down from 4 to 3 and 3 to 2 very jerky at times as if I was changing down, in manual, to a lower gear than intended.Citroen tell me the car is in standard condition but I find it hard to believe that such a less than smooth change down can be acceptable. I am coping by changing gear manually. Has anybody come up against this one? Read more
For anybody interested in the trials and tribulations of C5s,auto and otherwise, there is a very interesting dialogue under way on Yahoo, groups,C5-L
We are considering buying one of these beasts. Any info regards price to pay , availability etc would be nice. Were only 100 made this year ( as the salesman told us )are they as sought-after as appears. We have found one at a local dealer who wants 22695 for a version with full leather, rear sensors, fr. and rr. s/r, and r/rails .Oh he will knock 400 off for cash .Big deal I thought. On H J's suggestion I've been offered one without the trinkets for 17973 through broker4Cars or 20340 with the goodies. Any thoughts gratefully received. Read more
The noise is from the balancer shaft , don't know what you're referring to .Ours has now covered 19,000 miles without a blip . Downside is fuel consumption , driving it like a nun you can squeeze 30mpg out of it on a run around town 17mpg , but it is a fast car fun to drive and everything still works . Got through a pair of front tyres on 12,000 .
I have a 2001 Volvo V70 2.4 and when checking fluid levels I noticed that the power steering fluid was a little low.
The dealer has fluid but it is about £18 for a 1 lit bottle.
My query is, can you use any power steering fluid in this car, the dealer implies not and that it must be Volvo fluid.
As I only need about an eggcup full I'm not happy to spend so much on a whole litre. Read more
Sure,
Eurocarparts.co.uk
0208 956 5000
German and Swedish Not sure about URL but 0208 893 1688
Bye
Does anyone have a reliable method of removing lumps of limescale from the inside of an old type copper cored radiator? The radiator is in good shape with no leaks, but if I remove the filler cap, I can see lumps of limescale blocking the water passages. Ideally I need a technique which doesn't require removal of the radiator, as it has a transmission oil cooler built into it, and an engine oil cooler attached to the front with non-reusable plastic clips, all of which would make it a bit tedious to remove.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com Read more
Richard
Limescale may not be the only problem. If the car is a '67 then it's highly likely that there will be a fair bit of rubber dust trapped in the core as well. Hoses from that era will have shed a lot of debris, even though they will have been replaced with later manufacture.
Your overheating symptoms are exactly the same as I experienced on a '65 Pug 404 and the only cure was to have the header removed from the rad so that it could be rodded through. You should have seen what came out of it!
Ian Cook
Boat/caravan/camping shops have heavy-duty ones with a plastic cap which will fit most existing mountings.
Beware that there seems to be a fusibile link in some sockets which does not take kindly to any prolonged high-amp useage. The link melts in the socket, but does not blow the fuse.
rg