May 2003
Hi,
I have a ford fiesta 1.8 LX Diesel 1993. I ran out of fuel so filled up with a few cans of diesel , wouldnt start though. So i primed the hand pump quite a few times and nothing.
Changed the fuel filter and now fuel will pump through the hand pump, but doesnt seem to be getting to the engine ?
What i really need to know is, 'can fuel pump through the hand priming pump(by self primimg) but the pump still be broken, i.e hole in diaphragm ?'
Really need some help here, anything woul be helpful
thanks Read more
My wife runs a 1997 Ford Fiesta 1.3, 23000 miles, Endura Engine.
When 1st starting the car every thing appears to be ok.
But after a couple of mins when the engine has warmed up the engine will stall when we start to slow down say at a junction, or when you are waiting at traffic lights etc. The strange thing is that if you let the engine revs down very slowly we are able to keep the engine running.The engine ticks over OK and other than this stalling problem runs fine.
I have had it into my local garage and they have run a full diagnostic test on the car and no fault has shown up.I am a bit reluctent to take it back straight away because I can see a very expensive trial and error situation start where as the garage will start replacing various parts of the engine in a hope of fixing the problem.
Any body out there who can help.
AMT
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I call from Macedonia. I have Germany fiesta endura e 1.3/50Hp, July 1996, . now70.000M (I am second user, from 2002). In 2004, I change damaged IACV, 95BF-9F715-AB with used but good iacv 95BF-9F715-AC . Then I had contact with Hella and get info that 9F715-AB is obsolete and 9F715-AC is full compatible for all fiesta and Ka 1.3 endura engine. After this, begin symptoms of holding idle (about 0.5 second), especially on mountain driving or drive with frequently changing speed. Local mechanic though that 9F715-AC is design for 16 valve engine and 8 valve fiesta endura have smaller manifold. Another mechanic though that ECU compensate this different. I was accustomed with this problem, but from spring 2009 begin new problem, engine sometimes raises the rpm itself after heating, and uncontrolled increases rpm in neutral, one time. First change ECT sensor (this fiesta have 35000 ohms ECT), but without result. In August 2009, the problem occurred more often, and local mechanic reprogrammed ECU and the problem was solved .... but only for a while, this problem came up again in May 2010 , with congestion engine. Then buy new iacv, mechanic cleaning around the Oxygen Sensor catalytic converter foil and 2 ignition injector. One week engine was excellent, but after engine again raises the rpm itself after heating, and uncontrolled increases rpm in neutral. Now, revs were still higher ( because everything was cleared). And with this problem I was driving the car, at long traffic lights or toll ramps I turns the engine off. In September 2010 I suspected the sealing air , between IACV noise resonator and manifold, and then I built IACV direct on mainfold with new rubber seal. After I was by mechanic for the installation of LPG, he check ECU and find report P 1120. ( TPS is out of range). Hi though that some connector isn't good, reconnect TPS, clear error report and drive 6 Miles with fast driving and speed changing; then check ECU again and all was excellent. But after 2 week, problem came up an even greater form, at lower temperatures, after 5-10 minutes driving. I installed a new TPS and I replaced that of the red rubber in the TPS connector and is now good. I did not reset the ECU, I want to see later on diagnostic if the problem appears again....
Hi,
Not sure my radiator is working okay. The top pipe that goes into the radiator gets hot after a run. The bottom pipe attached to the radiator is cold. Equally, the top end of the radiator is hot and the bottom end cold.
Does this suggest a blockage in the radiator or is this how radiators work, (ie pumps in hot water from the top where it is then cooled by the time it is released through the bottom pipe).
Cheers Read more
Hi,
The coolant was changed a few weeks ago when the timing belt was changed, (they had to remove the radiator to get to it). I bled it last night - no air in the system.
Didn't realise the complications of radiators - glad I asked. !!!
You might have noticed that this outfit are offering a service named "You buy it we fit it" where they will, for what appears to be a nominal fee, fit accesories and simple spares in an adjoining workshop bay.
Now all the Halfords I've seen with this bay, with the exception of one [1], have a distinct lack of customers taking up the offer.
So what does the team think?
Are my observations typical of other areas of the country?
Is there something inherently wrong with the concept/business model?
Could the business model be OK but Halfords is the wrong engine to drive it?
Is UK the wrong market for this concept?
[1] the only one I've seen with any acceptable degree of business has actually been converted from a Halfords workshop to an official liveried AA service centre.
Must head off to Tom Shaws Lupo headlight bulb thread as I've just had an idea ;-)
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Any special reason why my post in this topic has been hidden?
Hi All
I have a VW Golf 1300 81,000 miles Mk2.
I had a new timing belt fitted at 32,000 miles and I have done 50,000 miles on this.
Is it time to replace this one? The VW dealer says it will last 80,000 miles although the haynes manual says replace after 40,000 miles. Who is right?
Thanks
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I have an Audi Avant 1995. My nearest Audi franschise is 20 miles away, while my nearest VW franchise is just up the road. They will no longer supply parts for my Audi. THese two franchises used to one, before Audi decided it needed its own 'quality' showrooms. The VW franchise used to help me out with Audi parts, but cannot any longer do so, simply because they are no longer plugged into the appropriate computer, and demand for Audi parts is limited. I assume they could plug into that computer, since it is Vag computer, but to be fair, they are now a VW franchise.
Is your car an Audi or a VW?
Are you able to comment on why SEAT can supply original OE parts, and not VW, as in my case?
Hi all
We have a 2000 Focus 1.8 Zetec, with the Quickclear heated windscreen.
A couple of days ago, the windscreen got hit by a stone, and a crack has developed near the top edge, and is starting to grow slowly.
Does anyone know whether the heated screens can be replaced by Autoglass/Autowindscreens etc etc, or is it a job for Ford ?
Also, any idea of cost ? If it's done by autoglass/autowindscreens, we just pay the £50 excess, elsewhere the insurance will pay out a max of £125 (on top of the excess).
Thanks
mb Read more
Well, we had the screen replaced by Autoglass.
Seemed to do a good job, only took about an hour, I thought it would be much longer !
Thanks for the advice.
Hi peeps
I know this topic has been covered before so don't flame me. Someone mentioned on a previous post that Halfords do something similar to TCut for glass. They said you can get rid of faint scratches caused by wipers on the glass. I have searched Halfords lunchtime and could not find anything. Does anyone know what it is. I have scratches on my screen due to the previous owner not checking the wiper blades for dirt.
Thanks in advance
Mandy Read more
My experience with this problem. Scratches on screen caused by ice scraper, used standard el-cheapo supermarket toothpaste. Requires lots of steady effort (ok with that), and patience (not my strong point). It worked.
...
What is the most comfortable car? Forgetting all other factors. Also, how is the comfort of a car affected by age/miles. Suspension can be replaced, but can you replace for instance the seats of an ageing jag so that it is once again top for comfort?
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Definitely have to agree with Flat in Fifth. The Renault 16 is the most comfortable car I ever owned. The first and only car I could have a normal conversation going on with all passengers at 80 mph. No shouting required.
Shame the rear floor rusted away though..
I've recently bought a Rover 75 diesel (131ps/300Nm) and it is an excellent car, supremely quiet inside, beautful cab, handles great and I'm a very happy bunny. Almost 500 miles so far and very highly recommended and I've driven a fair few cars in my time and this one is perhaps the best, just shading it over my 3500s.
However, I do realise that diesels have a limited power band and they require some intelligent gearwork. I'm not doing to badly realising the power really comes in a 2,000 rpm but it's caught me out a few times.
What I'd like to know is how to get the most out of driving one? Can any of the dieselheads pass on some sage advice to this diesel newbie?
Thanks in advance. Read more
Sadly, "ect" now seems almost universal. I have no idea why - it is beyond bizarre. People don't seem to connect it at all with its unabbreviated form: etcetera.
Several years ago, before work started on the new Mersey Bridge, there was a well-known mountain of scrap metal in Widnes surrounded by a corrugated-iron fence which had a hand-painted legend in 3-foot capital letters, ending in ECT (that's the only bit I can remember .......
I have just purchased a second hand N reg 1996 Fiesta Zetec 1.25 LX Automatic.
I have only been driving it a few days but it has stalled 3 times. It stalls after turning the engine on and trying to put it into drive. The way I have to press the brake in to put the car into drive is very different to my hubbys Renault Laguna RT (R Reg). It always seems to shudder when putting into drive.
Also it stutters a lot when slowing down, approaching junctions and pulling off. Sometimes I think it is going to stall but doesn't.
The car has only done 37,00 miles. Can anyone suggest what may be wrong or is it just me? Read more
ok all alittle confuesd to take in guys but great that i may have found my problem, ok mine, well i ll start from when i get into car,
start her up great, put into reverse, engages, foot off break out the garage i go. then put it into drive slight delay, egages angine starts to get erratic, up and down motion, car just wants to take off, foot on break, car is not having it, just wants to go then it stalls. reverse? no problem drive and L just wants to jump forward....
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Probably the continued cranking finished off a set of well-worn glow-plugs.Had the same on a gasoline motor;the failure of the idle fuel cut-off solenoid and then the repeated cranking finished off the coil-12 v. thro the 8 v. coil.