July 2003
Some of you mihgt find this useful (I hope!)
Tips to understanding your vehicles serial (VIN) number
They are as follows:
1st character- Identifies the country in which the vehicle was manufactured.
For example: U.S.A.(1or4), Canada(2), Mexico(3), Japan(J), Korea(K), England(S), Germany(W), Italy(Z)
2nd character- Identifies the manufacturer. For example; Audi(A),
BMW(B), Buick(4), Cadillac(6), Chevrolet(1), Chrysler(C), Dodge(B),
Ford(F), GM Canada(7), General Motors(G), Honda(H), Jaquar(A), Lincoln(L), Mercedes Benz(D), Mercury(M), Nissan(N), Oldsmobile(3), Pontiac(2or5), Plymouth(P), Saturn(8), Toyota(T), VW(V), Volvo(V).
3rd character- Identifies vehicle type or manufacturing division.
4th to 8th characters- Identifies vehicle features such as body style, engine type, model, series, etc.
9th character- Identifies VIN accuracy as check digit.
10th character- Identifies the model year. For example: 1988(J), 1989(K), 1990(L), 1991(M), 1992(N), 1993(P), 1994(R), 1995(S), 1996(T),
1997(V), 1998(W), 1999(X), 2000(Y)------2001(1), 2002(2), 2003(3)
11th character- Identifies the assembly plant for the vehicle.
12th to 17th characters- Identifies the sequence of the vehicle for production
as it rolled of the manufacturers assembly line.
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I've just been reading "Car Mechanics" letters pages.
A woman whose Toyota seized up after 11 years was complaining. The water pump had gone, which took the cambelt, which wrecked the engine, which made the car economically unviable.
In her service book, it said that the red coolant was filled for life and concentration checks were done by her dealer at annual services. Which they were. she'd done the lot.
The coolant, checked by the AA, was OK at 35% strength, but had no corrosion inhibition left.
My Golf is filled with G12 VW coolant. I have just rung Vantage VW in Leeds and am told "There is no recommendation to change it, Sir. It will last the life of the vehicle.
Answers please, not on a postcard, but here.
Thanks lads (and lasses)
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Yeah! I remember those BL "Filled for life " stickers....trouble is it was a bit ironic as the Head Gaskets needed changing so often new antifreeze was always part of the operation! Therefore an antifreeze change was never required!
Had a problem with the driver side window mechanism failing and the glass falling inside the door on my 99 GT TDI. Luckily the glass didn't break. VW dealer managed to quote £160 to repair and said it was a common fault - seemingly the plastic clips which go up and down the 2 rails break.
Being an Aberdonion decided to tackle the job myself as the new "metal" clips and regulator mechanism only cost £28. 2 hours later all working fine and quite chuffed with myself.
Speaking to a guy whilst playing golf who said his 99 GTI 3 door had this problem with both windows, 1 repaired under warranty and the other cost 130 odd quid.
Is this problem really that common? obviously the dealers are doing ok out of this, perhaps this an engineered fault!
{made use of drop down menus that weren't previously available when post was first drafted} Read more
I have just experienced the same problem with my mk 4 GT TDI yesterday. I really refuse to pay £130 to get a MANUFACTURING FLAW fixed. Do you know where I can buy just the clips from? I have had a scour online but am struggling to find them.
Thanks
Oh dear, I have someone who wants to buy my car but I cabt find the logbook. I have searched everywhere but its gone.
I suppose I need a new one from DVLC. What do they want from me to get another one?
Can anyone help please?
Sally Peters Read more
I have a vague feeling - I think I read it on the back of my latest MOT cert. that there is some central register that will reissue an MOT cert. for a fee. Doubtless somebody else can confirm.
I have an Alfa 156 2.0 JTS and it's fantastic. However, there is a recurring problem that the dealer doesn't seem able to rectify. On 6 occasions in the last year the information read out on the dash displays 'motor control system failure - go to dealer' and the rev limiter cuts in at 3000 revs. The ECU has been replaced as has the throttle potentiometer and various electrical connections, but it still happens, intermittently.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
TR Read more
Yep - I filled up for the very first time with Optimax and 300 miles later the lambda sensor packed in. Seems like too much of a coincidence.... Got the lovely "motor system conrol failure" message....
I was thinking of using an engine flush when i next change my oil (97 306 xtdt) is there a problem with over filling if the oil is already up to the max on the dipstick? or will the small volume of flushing oil make no difference? Read more
Thanks Duffy,
The fact that you are new and were abused by me is telling me that I have not given you the standard of service you should expect here.
I have been told at work that a day will come when I will say just the wrong thing to just the wrong person, and regardless of past achievements, all will stop.
I posted another thread in the Discussion forum that went along unplanned lines and I caused great offence.
I do not understand people. Time to disappear for a while.
Thanks for your forebearance and understanding, my friend.
my daughters 206 2001 model has just been into main dealers (under warranty) with a notchy/clunky gear selection problem.
Local dealer who sold car wanted to replace gearbox, but peugeot refused and dealer has to rebuild gearbox, replacing various parts. Not sure what root cause is, any one else had similar problem if so what was the fix?
Begs the question what IS a manufacturers 3 year warranty worth?
A premium was paid in main dealer purchase price I hope their gearbox rebuild hold up.
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I had a 206 two or so yrs ago. Car was ok, but what you are experiencing is typical of the apalling dealer network that are Peugeot UK and their dealers. I remember being fobbed off with numerous lies and consider the majority (not all!) of their dealerships amongst the worst in the UK. A shame - the cars are great until they inevitably go wrong. The dealer back-up and after sales is what really lets the side down.
It may sound like a daft question, but is it possible to put a new gaiter on an outboard driveshaft joint WITHOUT dismatling the joint(s)? Current problem on the RHS driveshaft of a PUG205 1.8 diesel (88) but(same as GTI) this has an intermediate bearing between inner & outer joints. The manual shows a tool to expand/slide a boot up, but my feeling is you would not be able to stretch the small (driveshaft) end of the boot over the CV joint. I really did not want to dimantle the whole car just to replace the gaiter [joint ok, only just happened, not got water & grit inside...] Read more
It's rather like a large cone - about the diameter of a CV joint itself....it makes life so much easier.
I was initially sceptical, but I'm now a convert!
Hi,
Have just found that the brake lights and reverse lights on my Astra have stopped working. Tried changing a bulb or two, but makes no difference and anyway all the bulbs look ok.
HWMO took a look at the fuse box, and couldn't find a section for a fuse controlling both brake and reverse lights, but he's sure there must be one or at least hopes so, otherwise there could be a more sinister problem.
The fuse diagram thing has several indecipherable symbols on it, one of which might be the one we're looking for. So, I am told to ask, does anyone have any idea what fuse numbers control these lights?
Ta in advance for any help.
HF
"I'm very intelligent really, just got good at hiding it." Read more
Mark - IME HF doesn't drive fast enough to need her brakes all that often ;-)
HF - you mean you've been letting RTB drive it with no brake/reversing lights :-)
driving to work a couple of nights ago on the motorway. Sitting at 70mph, the power disappeared from my car. It wasn't in danger of cutting out, but there was no "oomph" when the accelerator was pressed. Basically the turbo seemed to have gone. Started the car this morning and it's OK again. Dealer says the may have trouble diagnosing the problem if it isn't present on the car when I put it in but have to admit, quite scary if it was to happen during overtaking. Spoke to VW technical and they suggested there may be an issue with the air flow meter. Anyone seen a similar problem before?? Read more
I've had this on my Passat Tdi110. It was just after I bought it. After 280 miles on the motorway I pulled out to overtake a van and trailor and the turbo stopped working. A bit alarming, would have been potentially fatal if overtaking on single carriageway. I called the dealer, who basically didn't give a monkey's. The RAC, however, got to the bottom of the problem. The loss of pressure to the turbo was caused by a loose jubille clip on one of the turbo pipes. As the engine had got hotter and hotter, it expanded just enough to alow the pressure to drop to normal atmospheric pressure, hey presto, no turbo. Once it cools it tightens up a bit and the car works again. Check all the pipework on the turbo system and you'll probably find that the prat who assembled the car did not tighten something up properly. Because this is not a 'failure' it is not recognised by VW diagnostics, and, of course, when I took my car into the dealer on my return they said nothing was wrong. What was wrong was the fact that the dealership (VW franchise) had clearly not checked the car at all prior to sale. The message is clear - don't buy a VW.
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Hi there. I found the most comprehensive information about reding and finding your VIN number and all things VIN from a blog I read from a salvage company called AFF Vehicle Services who sell damaged repairable cars and salvage veicles for sale. Their guide can be found at affvehicleservices.com/blog/vin-number-a-complete-.../
Hope it covers everything you need to know. Simple diagrams.