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Exactly what I was gonna say.....
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Thanks,
I'll give it a go at the weekend and let you know if it cures the problem.
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A long shot perhaps, but if air is getting into the engine AFTER the carb, eg loose manifold or other leak, it would give you similar symptoms.
I had this once on a Sprite. Discovered it by mistake when leaning on the inlet manifold with the engine running. Changed the idling speed. Garage could not find it. Cheap to fix!
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Well I cleaned the idle air control valve sugested and replaced the O ring seals but with no improvement , so I'll have a look to se if there is a air leak arund the manifold.
Many Thanks
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Try some Redex Petrol Injector Treatment and give the car a good hard run for as far as possible. At £4.99 worth a try worked for me.
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amt - Did you ever get this fixed?
I've got exactly the same problem on the same model. The idle control valve has been cleaned, and sensor replaced (twice). Sometimes the car stalls several times on one short journey, then it may not stall for days, then it'll start stalling again. The error logs show nothing.
Looking through other related threads this evening I notice that several people have suggested an air leak as a possible cause. There's also a suggestion that the exhaust valve clearances may need to be 0.5mm, rather than the 0.3mm stipulated in the handbook.
Other symptoms: I've noticed it often accelerates unevenly, and sometimes (only sometimes!) when stationary the idling will fluctuate considerably.
This has now been driving me witless for months. The wife is refusing to drive it, which means that until the problem is fixed I don't get my Audi back!
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Thanks for posting this - I was having the same problem with my fiesta and tried it out - it really works.
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Had similar problem with a 1990 1.3 Fiesta.
Then I discovered there was no changeable fuel filter on the fuel line. So I cleaned it out with redex in tank and down air inlet and cut the Carb based fuel line and put in a filter, no problems after that.
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hi i have a ford fiesta 1.3 endura engine on a 1996 and i had the same problem as when i came to a stand still the engine revs would drop low enough for it to stall and it would doing my head in i gave the car a full service to see if it would make any difference but no i when to serveral garages to see threre opinion and they said it would be the idle control valve or the air mass sensor. so to the scrap yards i went i changed the following
mass air sesor (next to air box)
throttle position sensor (throttle linkage)
and was unable to get an idle control valve as they was in demand and hard to get hold of
anyway after that it still was cut out so after thinking of nearly scraping the car i cleaned out the idle control valve and guess what it still did not solve the problem so i went to the local ford delearship i saw a nice man at the parts dept and he
said we get a lot of people coming in with that problem and 99% of the time it is the idle control valve so i said how much is one he said
£100 quid and he said i could try it on my car and if it did not work he would give me my money back so i gave it a go
and it worked very pleased now i hope this helps
I had thought of pulling this out into a new posting but because of all the info in the original 2003 thread I've left it where it is, I've edited a bit on the original subject line and categorized it under the new menu system. - PU
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Wife's car has had this sporadically for a number of years. Initially the problem was that the Master Brake Cylinder was goosed and brake fluid was getting into the vacuum lines. A new master cylinder cured it. Ocassionally now it does it when the oil filler cap/hoses get clogged with water/oil (looks like Mayo). Cleaning it out with petrol sorts it usually.
recently did it but no suspect mayo anywhere. Soaked the idle valve in petrol for an hour, then dried ot off and sparyed a little wd40 onto the piston mechanism, refitted it, also found a hairline crack in one of the tubes leading off from the oil filler cap. Fitted a new one and it's ok again now. Then it started mis-firing when accelerating, replaced the plugs and seems ok - for how long.........Going to replace the fuel filter this weekend.
Very frustrating.
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This thread keeps coming back from the dead! lol
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This thread keeps coming back from the dead! lol
>>>>>>>>>>> old fords never die jase1 they just get rustier
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hi im having the same problem with my l reg fiesta ghia, ive been told about the idle air control valve but haven got the faintest idea where to find it or what to do when i do any ideas??? thanks claire
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1.3
>>.................. tinyurl.com/2x7e7w
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apparently its a 1.3 hcs engine, ive cleaned the spark plugs and put redex in the tank with no success its only an intermitent problem, most of the time it runs fine other days can stall 8-9 times.
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take it off and clean it with brake cleaner
it has a brittle plastic valve cap on it that doesnt like poking with screwdrivers (dont ask) so just squirt the thing a few times and replace,watch for the rubber gasket
you may end up needing a new one at about £50 from a motor factor
a scrappy one may be no better
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ok but i cant find it and that pic looks nothing like my engine lol
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Any chance of uploading a photo of the engine to photo sharing site and posting a link ?
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its an overhead valve engine (dad tellin me lol) this is french to me lol
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put some new ngk plugs in it and see how you get on then
dad hasnt tightened the old tappets down too much has he?
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hes not touched the tappets all hes done since it started it is clean the plugs and put redex in it
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Clair
That's a singlepoint 1.3 that used three different makes of fuelling systems on that year.
It's likely that IF yours is Bosch; it doesn't have an idle control valve, but an idle throttle motor that acts as the stop for the throttle shaft.
Those can't be fixed - only replaced. They're around £90, so a breakers one might be a good idea to try. Better still would be getting someone clued-up to take a look at it.
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ok thanks for your help il let you know if we fix it otherwise il send ur invite to the cars funeral lol
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Hi, I have a Ford Fiesta Courier Van, Which has a Endura-E 1.3 (EFI), Its had a new Idle Control Valve, and A New TPS Sensor,
My van decides to cut out when i push the clutch down it sometimes decides to cut out, i can be going down a hill at 40mph and it will cut out as soon as i push the clutch down.
i have also disconneted the lamba sensor to see if this has any affect, i dot seem to get a stink of fuel anymore and when the lamba sensor was connected i could cutout at a junction and not be able to restart the engine without lifting the clutch while cranking the engine, this would inturn pull the van forward, so now that i have disconneted the lamba sendor this problem does not occur but she still cut out everynow and again.
can anyone help me.
thanks in advance.
oh and i do know that this engine was taken from a ka and put in my van by the previous owner, it has always been a 1300 petrol, never been a diesel
thanks ben
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Ben
Mix-and-match swaps are always a nightmare - but on these engines.... There are literally dozens of variations on different years and models.
What year is your van and does it have a clutch pedal position sensor; what exact engine did it have; what year was the Ka engine; what sensors did you swap/leave; which ECU did you use?
Has it ever run properly.
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i bought the van from a gu that was selling it and he had had the new engine put in.
he gave me a load of paper work, i will type as much as i can in and the rest i will scan to the computer and put on my website www.bp21network.com/bensvan
my van is a 1997, reg number is R617 UOK, Its got The MK4 Front End, It does have some sort of switch/sensor on the clutch pedal. not sure on what engine it previously had all i know it was a 1.3 petrol, is there any way i could find this out? not sure on the year of the ka engine but i do have the engine number for the ka engine. not sure on what sensore were swaped or left, same as the ecu i belive it the original that was in the van but not completley sure.
cheers ben
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Ben
What a nightmare. The poor old ECU is probably struggling to make sense of all sorts of incompatible and missing sensor info. Just sticking-in any old 1.3 won't do.
Only by getting this plugged-in by a real EEC V expert and methodically working through all it's discrepancies [if it's possible] will it ever run right; Ford had enough trouble with "failure to idle" faults on these with someone trying anything as silly as this.
For now, try disconnecting the clutch switch.
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i have tried that before when a local garage advised me too. it had no effect
www.bp21network.com/bensvan
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Some More info,
I just went to strat my van to nip into town, and the engine would keep running unless i pushed the accelerator pedal down a little bit. otherwise it just cut own straight away, and my dad said also say then when you rev it you hear a dump valve type sound before it revs.
i will try and recored this sound and put it on my website to further help.
cheers ben
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interesting point for all you stallers. My fiesta endura 1.3 at 27000 miles began stalling as reported above, took car to garage and guy said it probably needed a new idle control valve as it was a common fault, he didn't have one but said as "a temporary fix clean it out with wd40 and it'll be ok for a while but the problem will come back and a new one is only solution. Sure enough WD40 cured the problem for 5000 miles, so every 5000 miles I've been cleaning the valve out with WD40 and the car has now done 88000 miles. The valve didn't respond anymore to cleaning out so I purchased a new one (at long last I can hear you all say, tight S*d) The new one ran ok for 2 weeks when stalling problem returned, I then suspected something else like Throttle position sensor HOWEVER before buying one of those I decided to try another new Idle control valve just in case I'd bought a faulty one, and HEY PRESTO no more problems for the past 5 weeks. It just goes to show that NEW stuff can be faulty so never assume NEW means PERFECT when it comes to electronic wizardry.
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'97 MK4 Fiesta 1.3 (endura-E) stalling at junctions, roundabouts etc.
Remove and clean 'Idle Speed Control Valve' ***For Novices***
tools :- 8mm socket, screwdriver, carburettor spray, WD40
*If anyone's unsure what this valve thingy looks like, go on ebay and search for 'Fiesta Idle Speed Control Valve' - you'll find pictures of 'em there... only 21 quid for a new one if you need one!*
The valve is dead easy to get at on the 1.3 endura-e... just look at that big plastic 'thing' on the top, middle-ish part of your engine and it'll be there staring you in the face! You'll see it attached to the plastic 'thing'... it's got 2 boltheads (one on top and one directly underneath valve body) and a small squarish electrical plug connector on the right of the valve.
Be brave! Get a screwdriver and carefully prise the wire clip down on the connector... *don't lose that clip!* Take the connector off and get your 8mm socket and carefully undo the bolts, pull the bolts out then start to slowly pull the valve off. If you look on the plastic body behind the valve you should see a rubber double 'O' ring that sits in a recess (shaped like a sideways '8') Take it out, and lightly dab it with kitchen roll. You should be able to re-use this no problem but if it looks worn/flat/mishapen you may need a new one from a Ford dealer (cost about a quid).
Now the valve's off, get the valve and put it into a plastic container, get the carburettor spray (aerosol from halfords, 4 or 5 quid) and at arms length, spray short bursts into the two holes on the valve. The spray may spit and crackle as it does its job removing the carbon build-up. Let it soak for a while but *don't let it dry*, then empty the used spray into the container... used spray should now be a nice black colour!. Repeat until spray runs clear. Now get your tin of WD40 and give the inside of the valve a good soaking. You can leave it soaking for 15 minutes or so. After its WD40 bath, empty the valve of WD40 and lightly dab the valve dry with kitchen roll.
To refit the valve... get the 'O' ring and carefully push it back into the plastic recess. Grab the 8mm bolts and refit valve. You can easily hand-tighten these bolts first, then finish tightening with your 8mm socket. Push and hold the electrical connector back onto the end of the valve and slide the clip back *up* into place.
After checking all pipes, bolts and filler cap are secure... fire it up and take it round the block... should now be running *much* better as this fix works 9 times out of ten.
If the engine still cuts out exactly as before, then it'll more than likely need a brand new valve... get a new valve off ebay for 20 odd quid and fit it as described above.
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grrr... I cleaned the ICV too 3 days ago and the car still stalls as before. Not only that but I played with the spring inside, greased it, oiled it, and goodness knows what else.. I don't want to buy a new ICV because it's too expensive for an old car like that (1998). I'll probably go to the scrap yard and pick one up there if there are any... Are there replacement ICVs for fiesta (endura-e)?
But, know what? While doing that I played with the TPS a little and solved the over-revving problem - the dirty way :) And for $1:
www.howtomendit.com/answers.php?id=1798
or
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=36472
Edited by Webmaster on 22/04/2008 at 00:06
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hrvoje
A whole dollar - you're not of Scots blood then....?
Drill out the two brass bushes and twist it back to get the lowest possible centre-pin voltage - usually around 0.7v on UK-spec ones. Then gently tighten the screws and spend the saved dollar on a nice cool drink.
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hmm.. Something new. Today I've done this (and was getting sick of it allready):
- I've taken out the IAC and cleaned it once again - this time realy exaggerating by soaking it in WD40 and moving the piston back and forth tor 20 minutes in it; and then moving it again to get the WD40 out. Still stalled (I managed to provoke it in 2 minutes)
- then I disconnected the battery for 3 hours hoping it would reset the ECU.
- in the meanwhile I located the darn clutch switch and it is very hard to find. It's located at the front side of the clutch so far up that you can't even see it. But the positive thing is that when you manage to feel it with your fingers it's easy to get it out - just turn it.
- Then I disassembled the switch, sprayed it with contact spray and twisted the contact ring inside so that it makes contact sooner.
-> then I tried to drive with the clutch switch disconnected and connected (always closed) - it didn't stall but I managed to provoke the unstable idle so that it nearly stalls mostly by switching the switch manually.
--> And then I've put it back on again. It DIDNT STALL EVEN ONCE and the idle was always stable no matter what I do. And I tried to provoke it for an hour driving and stopping, choking the engine by braking in gear and - perfect. So I don't know - maybe that fixed it. Or it was just that the engine warmed up in the process and because of that id didn't stall... Well, we'll see. If it stalls again I'll let you know in a week or so..
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hrvoje
Given the unique way that this system detects closed throttle; you're always chasing a moving target.
Every new drive cycle; the systems sets a "ratch" voltage - the lowest it's seen - that it assumes is throttle closed: there is no set level, it's constantly varying.
If the ECU doesn't see that exact voltage, then it assumes the throttle plate isn't closed and it remains in "part throttle" mode - during which the idle valve is held fully open.
Only when it sees a voltage that equates to the lowest it's seen in that cycle will it move into "idle" mode and activate the ISCV to control the idle speed at the pre-set level.
Most of the problems with these are bad connexions in the wiring that warm-up and increase resistance.....
The TPS bushes mod forces it to recognize that it's at idle [maybe it can't set the ratch voltage lower than 0.7v] and usually cures this fault. I've done dozens - often for Ford dealers who really struggle with these.
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The same crap as before. I shall waste my life on this no more..
Edited by hrvoje dagelic on 22/04/2008 at 21:03
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You are talking about stalling, or over-revving?
If I set the voltage above 0.5 V (now I can set it to what I want) the car is over-revving so it's not drivable. I noticed that when I disconnect the TPS it is stalling constantly. When I set the voltage to the highest value so that it is almost overreving - it is still stalling (like it normally does) => So I can do nothing about stalling with TPS voltage. Can I?
The clutch switch is not to blame - I tested it and it works (there is a difference when driving without it (it revvs longer) but - it can still stall.
The ICV? I don't know... There should be at least some difference with all that cleaning I've done, but it stalls exactly as it did before I cleaned it. So I doubt that buying a new one would fix it.
Spark plugs? No. They are new.
...so I concluded that the the ECU has poor control over the intake when the engine is cold and it can get confused by simple things like engine-braking. Of course if you can suggest something I'd appreciate it...
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Sorry :) ...it is not the IACV (in my case). Had it replaced today and - still the same. And it was replaced by the garage allready (the previous owner tried to service it but they couldn't find the cause). Well it's just transportation and I won't worry about that any more... But I think that my experiments show that this stalling problem is very tricky (sometimes):
- not the TPS
- not the clutch switch
- not the IACV
- reseting the ECU doesn't help it
- it has to do with engine temperature
- What is it??? I don't know.
That's all from me...
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I fixed it - and it was a very primitive problem, no sensor and no electronics. Here's how it goes:
- The problem was that the engine was not getting enough air because the throttle (butterfly valve) was closing too much. There is a screw that acts as a limiter (see the picture) but you can't adjust it because it's bolted from the inside. But you can screw a nut on it so that it limits it one mm higher.
You can try the following way:
- start the engine - rev it a little and then disconnect the IACV
- if the engine stops when lowering the throttle to the end then you
can try this fix (of course, clean the IACV first because dirty IACVs
are the most common cause for stalling)
- After installing the nut the engine should not die with IACV disconnected
but it should struggle to keep running
Of course, you should LOWER THE TPS VOLTAGE after doing this so that it can recognize the idle and not over-rev (see the posts above). With 0.4V it works perfctly for me.
If the new nut-limit is too high it will take a little longer for the engine to adjust the idle speed, and if it's much too high it will be unable to adjust it and if will idle too high. The spot is also very difficult to reach but it's possible to install the nut without taking the throttle body off with the help of some tool to hold it while turning it with your finger from the right side. You should also put something on the throttle to keep it open while doing that. To fasten the nut you can use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap it tangentially. In my case the nut was just a little bit to big so I filed it a little in place.
Here's the image:
www.ffdi.hr/~hdagelic/endura-e.jpg
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hrvoge
If you have to resort to desperate measures like changing the factory-set throttle stop; then you still haven't found your problem. Clearly, the idle-speed control system isn't functioning.
Have you considered things like too-tight tappets; non-functioning EVAP valves and blocked breathers?
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hmm.... No... But It's working perfectly now, idles really nice and idle is never unstable (not even for a moment) no matter what I do to provoke it. Nor is the idle speed too high - it's perfect. Who says that the factory throttle stop isn't wrong? :)
Edited by hrvoje dagelic on 29/04/2008 at 12:33
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I mean... we discovered that the factory-set TPS voltage can be wrong, so - the factory isn't perfect.
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The factory throttle plate setting won't cause stalling if the idle control system is working; all you've done is compensated for it's failure.
The factory TPS setting is correct as the system is adaptive; it's the ECUs failure to use it's signal correctly that requires the extreme measures.
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For example:
foxbodyforum.com/index.php?page=17
Here like in many other places they say that the engine should run with IAC disconnected. Well, in my case, it couldn't (before this).
I know that I'm boring but:
- If you plug the air intake no matter what the idle control does it can't create the non-existant air.
- If this wasn't the problem then there would be some twitches - like idle rpms going momentarily too low - but they aren't - they stay exactly at normal value. If idle contol wasn't working perfectly, this would happen because with IAC disconnected the idle drops to 500 rpm and the engine almost dies.
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I can't see anywhere on that link that mentions which engine it's referring to. You used to set the old 2.0 ltr Sierras like that back in the late eighties.
It is definitely not the procedure used for the later cars with locked throttle stops.
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Well, maybe I'm right, maybe you are. But It's working and I'm happy:) Except for that I've caught some stupid virus and I'm sick.
Edited by hrvoje dagelic on 29/04/2008 at 18:36
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Hi
I am having the exact same problem with my 1997 fista LX. It is driving me insane, and basically its a death trap.
It feels like i am driving too slow in a high gear- sorta heavy and then slows down, all of a sudden it will pick up speed again.
It stalls at junctions when idle, it also stalls on arproach to junctions and traffic lights- round abouts etc- anywhere i need to slow down and move into a lower gear.
I have had a new air flow meter put on, i changed the fuel filter and had a full service. I also had a diagnotsic test done- no errors were found.
The car will be ok for a few days, then all of a sudden the problem just starts again. like today, i have done 6 miles and its stalled 4 times- almost causing someone to crash into the back of me.
Another thing- sometimes it doesnt quite stall- if you put your foot down on the acceletrator it will power back up, even though the battery light is on and the oil light.
If anyone has any new suggestions i will be eternally greatful.
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Hi,
I'm not sure if you've fixed this problem but i'm pretty sure i've got the solution!
This happened to me twice, i've got the same model and year and when i first got the car i would start it (fine) then as soon as i drove it, a few minutes later the engine cut as soon as the clutch was lifted... traffic lights, roundabouts, anywhere the car had to stop... I got it checked by an engine tuner (using cryptonite specialist tuning software) and it picked up now faults... changed so many parts of my engine and then found out...
the solution... IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
it costs about £90 from ford and its simple to install... after 2 years of driving the same problem popped up again, i got another idle air control valve and bing,bang, bosh... it was fixed!
Apparantly these mk4 fiesta's have these problems often, and the best thing to do is get a brand new IACV because i cleaned my old one out and it didn't show any difference, but when i put a new one on, it was running fine!
I hope this helps!
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I mentioned a fix before about changing the throttle stop with a screw. Well, it's no fix - it was really working without a single stall for two months but now it started stalling again just like before.
In my case it isn't the IACV, i replaced it, cleaned it but no difference. It's not even the idle problem because when it starts stalling it also starts to hesitate when accelerating. Did anybody ever fixed this?
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Hmmmm....
Misfires on acceleration are often spark-related. Plugs; leads and the coilpack are the usual suspects.
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Today I had to do an annual inspection and it failed the emission test miserably:
CO at idle: 1,35 (max 0,5)
HC at idle 428 (max 100)
CO at 3000 rpm 2,43 (max 0,3)
HC at 300 rpm 271 (max 100)
...last year it passed. And it still stalls and sometimes looses power when accelerating.
What do you think?
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Check the air filter; the amount of smoke coming up the breather hoses and the voltage from the oxygen sensor at idle.
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Yes... yesterday I tried to change the right light bulb next to the air filter and I noticed that all of the screw holes that are holding the top of the filter box down are broken and somebody put wire into one of them so it would grip (but did it badly and it doesn't). But the whole box is loose and held only by gravity and a single rubber band.
Can that cause problems or is it insignificant?
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If the filter is blocked, it could be very significant.
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Found it. And from now on I hate car electronics. One screw is worth more than all of these sensors!
I measured the lambda sensor with an oscilloscope and it was showing the correct waveform (up and down from 0.2 to 0.9 V) after it heats up and rises from 0. I concluded it was OK after doing 5 measurements in the span of 3 hours.
Then I've done one more measurement - and it went into negative!! And after 2 minutes the signal rose to 0 and stayed there cycling quickly around 0. I wanted to make shore that the scope was connected ok so I disconnected and reconnected the wires a couple of times and tested it on the battery - and it was! Just couldn't believe it.
And while in that state I gave more throttle to see what happens on the scope and when I released it to idle - the engine died (it did the same on the emission test).
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...while giving the throttle the signal on the scope went momentarily even lower (around -0.7V). I looked on the net and it seems that this type of o2 sensor failure even has a name: "characteristic shift downward" or CSD - the sensor's range changes from 1 (rich) -> 0 (lean) to 0 (rich) -> -1 (lean) and has to do with cracks in it's ceramic body.
The worst thing is that the sensor was mostly working OK and if I went to a mechanic they wouldn't find the problem. I'll replace it tomorrow and I'll write here what happens to the stalling problem; I think this has to fix it.
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...replaced the lambda sensor (got an scrap yard one and it works like a baby) and passed the emission test.
We'll see what happens to the stalling problem; didn't stall today but I won't say anything yet because I'm afraid I could be wrong again.
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Hi,
Just been doing a Google search to help me understand what is going on with my car and came across these posts.
Not sure if anyone can help. I have a Ford Fiesta Ghia 06 and recently it has been stalling when I slow down. It always seems to be ok at the beginning of the week and starts happening randomly at the end of the week. Also the revs are quite erratic.
Annoyingly the warranty ran out in January. I have taken it to Ford a number of times now. First they did a diagnostic check for £100 and said that they could not find a fault. Then it got worse - kept stopping every time I slowed down, so I went back. They again said that they could not identify a fault but the mechanic felt that it was the fuel pump and said it was up to me if I go ahead with getting that changed. I didn't know what else to do so I said ok. It was ok for two weeks but then yesterday it started stalling every time I slowed down.
Went back there this morning, the car seems ok now so couldn't show them what has been happening. Ford said that they can't do much but I can leave it with them for a week so they can see what is happening. Or wait for it to get worse, until it doesn't start and take it back to them.
Does any one have any ideas please? I have paid so much already so not keen to have to spend lots more. Thank you.
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Hi,
I've just done the same search as you, trying to find the answer to the same question.
My 55reg Fiesta Zetec has been stalling for quite some time, we bought it 2nd hand from a Ford dealership and as far as I can remember it was fine for a few months.
It now stalls regularly, usually when slowing down to junctions/traffic lights/roundabouts, sometimes when going downhill (doing any mph - this has been quite dangerous occasionally!). When stopped and waiting at lights etc, the revs are very jumpy.
We haven't taken it to a Ford garage yet, but had it checked by a few local garages. Nothing came up on the diagnostic checks at all, but one engineer thought he knew what the problem was, and cleaned a valve (sorry no more details, but I'm a girl with very limited car knowledge!!). This initially worked and the car was fine for a few weeks, but it has just recently started stalling again, not as much as before, but I can imagine it will only get worse.
Any help greatly appreciated, we cannot afford to keep taking it to Ford if they aren't going to solve the problem!!
Thanks, Natalie
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Hi,
I have just brought a Ford Fiesta 1.3 Ghia, REG P 1996... And i have had the car for 2 days, and when i approach junctions and start to slow down the car engiene just turns off and i have had nearly a couple of accidents... i know many people have had similar problem but just wondering if someone could write back stating all the things that could be a problem why this is occuring... This would be greatly appreciated
Thanks Josh
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My r reg with 36k was doing this so i bought a new sensor and it stopped before i had the chance to fit it .This has lasted around 2 months and its started stalling again but i think its down to the petrol if i use Asda its ok!!!!!!!.I have put in some red x and have a near full tank of petrol which i filled up 100 mls from home ,if it continues to do this then i will go back and fill up at Asda and see what happens when i change the make of petrol .I am just guessing here but i will try this before i fit the new sensor which i have in my garage .
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Never had this problem with my old (carb ) fiesta........
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ohhh screwloose, please can you help me?
after seeing this site, you seem like the one to ask.
i bought this stupid car a few weeks ago and found out almost straight away why it was for sale! i have the same problem as everyone else,
> stalling at junctions and roundabouts ect. when my clutch is in, revs drop right down and stalls and stalls with the clutch out in neutral.
> idles erratically.
> engine hesitates, jumps and splutters on acceleration.
> i got through half a tank of fuel on a 70 mile run, taking it no higher than 4000 rpm.
the car has only done 40,000 miles from new and had a service every year and its been very well looked after. looking through the cars history, i think its had this problem since 20,000 miles. this is an intermitent problem so its hard to find out exactly what it is but to try and fix it, it has had the following work done,
> new speed sensor at 20,000
> diognostics with nothing showing up
> services
> new iacv at 30,000
> another set of spark plugs last week as this idleing problem is causing excess carbon
> throttle housing removed by garage and body and valve cleaned (cant remember exactly what else he said he cleaned)
> the butterfly valve and idle adjusted last week by same garage.
i dont want to keep spending money on it until i know exactly what the problem is, but i think this is going to be very difficult if nothing is showing up on diognostics.
one person said it maybe the ecu, someone else said the wiring and the first man at the garage who checked the throttle said the valve has made a pit in the throttle body over time, so not enough air is getting through, hence the adjustment, but im still getting the problem, he said something about drilling, which i see you mentioned but i dont know which is the best course of action. would drilling fix it? or even if that is the only problem? as im also getting this acceleration problem, are they related? what is this clutch switch fix i saw on here?
i dont want to be ripped off by having to change all these parts, especially if it is just a sensor as i can change it myself, ive worked on cars before but never an engine, it a bit too much of a big job and take me a long time to check all of these possibilities myself when this would be the first engine ive worked on.
can you please please help?
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ohhh screwloose please can you help me?
Unfortunately Screwloose is no longer a contributor of this forum. Maybe someone else *might* be able to help.
DD - BR Moderator.
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oh ok, thank you for letting me know dynamic dave
can anyone else please help me?? lol
i dont mind who, i just need some advice, my head is spinning with all this car stuff :(
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did all that and it still cuts out exactly the same??
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Got same problems but today discovered if i blanked the rubber pipe which goes from the t junction to the oil cap it solves the problem ? so does this mean there is a problem with the hose or oil filler cap ?
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Hello!
I am having problems with my ford fiesta 96 lx! (p reg) now I am a young girl...therefore I can't do any of this fixing myself as I haven't got a clue so I've been taking it to a mechanic. Basically exactly the same problems...braking and then putting the clutch down it stalls. I say stalls but it doesn't jugger so you know it has stalled...the engine just dies and I can see on the dashboard the battery and engine oil lights come up so i have to restart it with the key. Now the mechanic has done an engine service on it really..changed;
* fuel filter
* air filter (it was black!)
* spark plugs
* and a new thermostat? (the enginge temp reading wasn't correct)
It's had all diagnostic tests and they all says its a great car and really can't find anything wrong with it. After they changed the above, hoped it would all be ok and it sounded like it was the air filter, but it's happened again!! Before the engine does cut out at a junction, the revs get low pulling away and I have to push the accelerator a bit more and the revs suddenly come back.
I do only use the car for short journeys and my dad has said zooming it up the dual carridge way in a lowish gear may just help it to get the revs back up but I just don't know. Apparently the idle speed valves had been checked but do you think I just need to get a new one?? Is there a different between idle air control valves and idle speed?
HELP!
All/any comments much appreciated. Thank you.
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first thing i'd try is disconnecting the battery for an hour (make sure you have the radio code and how to input it before you disconnect the battery)
re-connect then leave the engine idling for 15 minutes
then take it for a 20 mile run making sure you at some stage get the throttle pedal right down to the floor
see if that cures it
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took it for a long run up the dual carridge way which improved the revs for a bit. my mechanic looked at it again and changed the throttle switch but it's still happening?!
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Did you disconnect the battery?
There could be several reasons -
IACV
Throttle switch or throttle body may need cleaning
Clutch switch
Speed sensor
Mine was different in that it stalled on pulling away, I tried a few things before I discovered for my model there was a software update for the PCM - I had the upgrade done and since then it's been fine (several weeks)
If you had the throttle switch changed then perhaps you should have disconnected the battery in the way I mentioned above to reset the module!
You also don't mention the engine size which could be useful info.
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No I haven't done that yet. I don't know if my mechanic would have? He did say that with this new throttle switch it should re-set the memory and should work. When I drove it home after it did stall once, but since it hasn't...yet. I'm finding that driving it a high rev's has stopped it so far, but I have to say I don't really like driving it like that as I know it's not very eco-friendly or good on the fuel consumption.
It's a 1.3 engine.
So if I disconnect the battery as you detailed above (well get good old Dad too!) and see how that goes? If it still doesn't work I should get checked the IACV, clutch switch and speed sensor?
Thank you - your help is very much appreciated!!
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I don't know if your mechanic disconnected the battery but I would ask him, no point doing it again if he already did it!
If not then disconnect it (DON'T FORGET RADIO CODE)
leave it for an hour
re-connect and run it at idle for 15 minutes don't touch the throttle
Then take it for a good run up to 20 miles in all types of conditions IE stopping at junctions, traffic lights and also on a wide stretch of road where you can get the throttle pedal right to the floor.
If that doesn't work you can read right through this thread and there are several others on stalling and see if any of those tips help - it's a frustrating situation and could cost a bit of money to sort out.
Good luck
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took it to a new mechanic...seems the IACV wasnt sealed correctly and the vaccume hose pipe had collapsed on itself!
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I call from Macedonia. I have Germany fiesta endura e 1.3/50Hp, July 1996, . now70.000M (I am second user, from 2002). In 2004, I change damaged IACV, 95BF-9F715-AB with used but good iacv 95BF-9F715-AC . Then I had contact with Hella and get info that 9F715-AB is obsolete and 9F715-AC is full compatible for all fiesta and Ka 1.3 endura engine. After this, begin symptoms of holding idle (about 0.5 second), especially on mountain driving or drive with frequently changing speed. Local mechanic though that 9F715-AC is design for 16 valve engine and 8 valve fiesta endura have smaller manifold. Another mechanic though that ECU compensate this different. I was accustomed with this problem, but from spring 2009 begin new problem, engine sometimes raises the rpm itself after heating, and uncontrolled increases rpm in neutral, one time. First change ECT sensor (this fiesta have 35000 ohms ECT), but without result. In August 2009, the problem occurred more often, and local mechanic reprogrammed ECU and the problem was solved .... but only for a while, this problem came up again in May 2010 , with congestion engine. Then buy new iacv, mechanic cleaning around the Oxygen Sensor catalytic converter foil and 2 ignition injector. One week engine was excellent, but after engine again raises the rpm itself after heating, and uncontrolled increases rpm in neutral. Now, revs were still higher ( because everything was cleared). And with this problem I was driving the car, at long traffic lights or toll ramps I turns the engine off. In September 2010 I suspected the sealing air , between IACV noise resonator and manifold, and then I built IACV direct on mainfold with new rubber seal. After I was by mechanic for the installation of LPG, he check ECU and find report P 1120. ( TPS is out of range). Hi though that some connector isn't good, reconnect TPS, clear error report and drive 6 Miles with fast driving and speed changing; then check ECU again and all was excellent. But after 2 week, problem came up an even greater form, at lower temperatures, after 5-10 minutes driving. I installed a new TPS and I replaced that of the red rubber in the TPS connector and is now good. I did not reset the ECU, I want to see later on diagnostic if the problem appears again.
There are still a dilemma whether to back a sound resonator chamber 96BF - 9F763-AA , between the IACV and manifold ??.
There is a ford constructive error , suddenly tightened 2 rubber gasket ;I need to do bare screws with a backrest, so that the disassembled only IACV. If you do not see a problem with speeding up again, it will be done next spring...
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is there anything i can use instead of carb spray to clean my iac?
got the same problem as many ppl on here
my fiesta 96 endura-e 1.3 keeps stalling when i slow down ect
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