January 2001
Hello, everybody!
The cambelt on my VW Golf 1.6CL (95M, 40,600 miles) broke as I was trying to start the car yesterday morning. It was towed to the nearest VW dealership whose service dept has just called me to tell me that after replacing the belt, the engine was misfiring and they were suspecting bent valves. The total figure quoted for the repairs was just over 700 pounds.
I would much appreciate receiving advice on two points:
1) A newsgroup search indicates that the VW 1.6 AEA engine should be a non-interference one---then how would it be possible to have bent valves? Also, the belt broke when I was trying to start the engine, i.e. not under load---should this cause such an extensive damage?
2) The car has been regularly serviced at a VW dealership, and VW are not recommending cambelt changes on this engine (the dealership says that, irrespective of the official recommendation, they advise a cambelt change at 60,000 miles, but my mileage is much lower). Would it be reasonable in these circumstances to expect VW to make a good-will contribution towards the repair costs?
Regards,
Peter Read more
I need a decent sound system for my ancient (1986) polo classic. I've been offered a Sony CDX4000 CD head unit, plus Sony 6X9s and Sony 13CM XSHASAs. I know that the the head unit will fit, but I'm not sure about the speakers. (Particularly as the VW parcel shelf is solid steel- time to get the hacksaw out!). Also, I'm not sure whether 13CM speakers are shallow enough to fit into my doors! I just wondered if anyone knows
a) if this system has decent sound quality
b) will it fit into my Polo without too much hassle?
(Oh yeah, and does it play CD-Rs)
Thanks a lot,
Giles Read more
I have a MK3 VW Golf. It is a great little car with lots of life ?.but the engines induces a nasty vibration as it moves through 2200 rpm. I believe it is a "feature" of Golfs. I had a Mark 1 years ago that did the same. This one however is much more annoying. Is there a fix? Does anyone know what the cause is? Read more
We had exactly the same problem with a 1989 passat 1800. ( same engine)
When the back of my ZX hatchback is loaded and I go over a bump the back brakes come on. I can feel this through the handbrake lever when the car is 'bounced' when stationary. Any ideas? Read more
The cables go into a pair of braided flexible tubes which then take them down the rear suspension arms to the rear drums. Sometimes these get twisted and 'bind'.
HJ
I am thinking about a Lexus Soarer, but cannot find any mpg data on it as it has not been imported officialy here. ARe there any international figures available? Read more
Use the link in my FAQ answer on imports to link to the car import guide website. The information should be there somewhere, even if the figures are unofficial. Remember also that there are at least three different engine options for this car.
HJ
A friend has an E230 estate P registration with steel wheels. His nanny was insured to drive it. She had a rear puncture and changed the wheel leaving the wheel trim in the boot. As she tried to drive off, the bolts damaged the brakes because they are too long UNLESS you replace the trim which is held on by them and acts as a washer. It does warn of this in the manual, and I know that Honest John says "always read the manual", but is everyone who borrows a car expected to read the manual too? I call this bad design. It gets worse. The same applies to the same car when fitted with factory alloys. Mercedes only supply a steel spare, which is thinner than the alloys. Fitting the steel spare using the same bolts also damages the brakes because they are now too long. Again this is covered in the handbook, and shorter bolts are supplied. But really! Please warn all Mercedes owners of this obvious design fault. Read more
What has been said here is correct and I have warned about it twice before in the column. The warning should also have found its way into at least one of my books. But I can't keep on repeating the same warnings or the column would be just one big repeated warning - and very boring.
HJ
Hi,
My Audi 80 (1988, 1.8 carb) has a strong dislike for the winter weather.
She'll be driving along fine (normally for about 10 minutes) then she'll start to lurch. Then engine gives bursts of power, jitters, does almost everything you can think of, and then often dies. Sometimes she'll drive through it, though most of the time she doesn't. I'll stop, turn off the engine, sit there for a minute or two and then be able to drive off. Give it another 10 minutes and she'll be doing it all over again.
If anybody has any idea as to why this happens I'd be very grateful. It must be an Audi fault as I know of other people with Audi's that this happens to. Always older carbuerreted cars.
Thanks to anyone who can help me!
Regards,
Mark Read more
Yeah, I have found that the PO actually removed the vacuum line to the temperature sensor! God knows why... I'm currently trying to find a Y shaped comnnector to connect a new hose to the vacuum pump but so far I can't seem to find one! It's so stupid as the part must only be worth a few pence.
I recently had an issue with my local VW dealer regarding mechanical and customer service problems. It took the manager nearly 3 months to contact me despite VW Head Office getting involved. Has anyone else experienced any such problems and how were they resolved. The trouble is I like my Passat! Read more
im not sure but maybe the solution might be to (if u have one) lock the doors with the remote alarm so when anyone tries to enter with a key or screwdriver the alarm goes off. mind u they might still be able to enter the car
I stumbled acrossa website promoting a device called the Ecotek CB-26P,
which claims to improve economy, emissions and performance, all for not
much more than £50. The claims and arguments are extremely convincing
(although I'll be interested to hear what my insurance co. will say.). Have you or
anyone else got an opinion, or had any experience of this product?
www.cleanburn.co.uk/contents.htm Read more
Re K & N Filters. Great but beware of the induction kits. I Know that the 16 valve Astra GTE (Pre ecotec) doesnt like this kit. Works much better with a K & N Filter inside original filter box. Apparently the airflow thro' the hot wire airflow sensor is upset. Conversly the induction kit on a Peugeot 205 GTi works well.
If like me you have a family who take half an hour just to get into the car, sort out the child's seat,
remember last-minute toys, need their nappies changing, etc etc, then it is difficult to heed HJ's warning
about not stopping the engine until it has warmed up. However, with 2 simple wooden ramps positioned
so that the front wheels rest on them, the car can be rolled out of the garage without starting the engine.
Then when everybody is ready, start up and go.
But supposing you do have to start the engine briefly, which is worse, to stop it again cold, or leave it
idling until warm? Read more
Joking apart, I pass this on as a serious tip for rolling the car out of the garage for loading, washing, etc, to avoid having to start the engine for a few seconds, and so putting neat petrol into the catalyst.
HJ warned several readers recently about the harm that can be done by stopping a cold engine.
Browse
.jpg)
On a Diesel engine, the timing belt has the extra (not inconsiderable) load of the fuel pump/distribution system... And, when a belt fails on a diesel engine, you stand a much higher chance of doing damage to the 'bottem-end' of the engine (happened to a Renault van at work, twice :-)