Hi,
I've got a 1999 astra 2.0 sri 16V which has an odd gearbox problem.
When the engine is cold, it's very hard to change gears; I have to force it into gear. There's no crunching sound from any gear so I assume the syncromesh etc is working. Once the engine is at normal running temperature, the problem disappears and I can change gears normally. Even when the engine is cold, I can easily change gears when the engine isn't running but as soon as I start the engine, the gearbox starts acting up.
The clutch pedal lies slightly below the brake pedal as if it needed the cable adjusted (I'm assuming the pedal should be slightly above the brake pedal) but this model doesn't have a cable - it's all hydraulic.
The fluid level is normal - the clutch and brakes share the fluid reservoir so I would have thought a problem here would affect the brakes as well.
I've no intention of tackling gearbox problems myself but any ideas about the problem would be welcome before I go to a dealer. I don't want the dealer telling me to replace the gearbox when it's maybe a fairly simple problem!
Edited by Webmaster on 26/08/2008 at 15:15
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but as soon as I start the engine, the gearbox starts acting up.
Is this even when the car is stationary? If so its clutch drag.
However if the problem is only when the car is moving then probably not and the best place to start with a problem like this is to change the gearbox oil, especially if its not been done before.
>>The fluid level is normal - the clutch and brakes share the fluid reservoir so I would have thought a problem here would affect the brakes as well.
Not really. They only share the reservoir, they operate seperately. If you think it's clutch drag bleeding the clutch system may help
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If difficult to shift when stationary with engine running then, as said, clutch drag.
Otherwise it could be the wrong g/b oil. IIRC these need ATF in the g/box and someone may have put 75W-90 in it.
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The problem definitely starts as soon as the engine starts; I don't need to be moving. Far as I know, the gearbox oil has never been changed although I'll ask the garage where it was serviced. I think the Haynes manual states that the oil shouldn't need changed unless the box is being worked on. Clutch drag isn't a term I've heard before - can you tell me what it is and what sort of fault causes it?
The bit that has me confused more than anything else is that the problem disappears completely when the engine warms up. If the clutch was faulty, I would have expected it to still be faulty regardless of engine temperature.
The car has 81000 miles on it if this is relevant.
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Clutch drag is the clutch failing to fully release - and it sounds like this is what your problem is. It could well be greasy muck on the splines causing the centre plate to stick in position when cold and then softening when warm and allowing it to move.
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Has the car always doen it since you bought it. This could be the oil has been changed and the wrong grade fitted. Also check to make sure going into reverse does not crunch i.e. clutch drag. Regards Peter
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Has the car always doen it since you bought it. This could be the oil has been changed and the wrong grade fitted. Also check to make sure going into reverse does not crunch i.e. clutch drag. Regards Peter
I've had the car for 3 years with no problems.
Changing the gearbox oil hasn't been mentioned on any of the service bills I've had. I don't think it's part of the normal service schedule and involves removing a plate from the gearbox and refitting with new gaskets etc. so I would have expected it to be mentioned because of the extra labour being charged.
Gear changes were working perfectly until a few weeks ago when changing suddenly became difficult - it doesn't seem to be a fault that has been developing gradually; or at least it wasn't noticible.
There's no crunching sound when changing into any gear although I'm using a fair bit of force on the gear lever. 1st and reverse are slightly more difficult than the other 4 gears but these 2 are only ever used when I'm starting from stationary (if that makes a difference). Pumping the clutch pedal a few times before changing makes no difference.
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Have you driven through any deep water recently? This problem sounds like contaminated gear oil - synthetic or semi-synth gear oils lose most of their lubricity when even a very small amount of water is present.
I had first hand experience of this several years ago in a Peugeot 106D. After successfully negotiating a deep flood (diesel, so no ignition problems), the gearchange rapidly deteriorated to the point where the car was practically undrivable. A change of gear oil was the instant cure; the gearbox was not overfull and the old oil looked perfect. That was over 100k miles ago, and the gearbox is still fine.
659.
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Did you find out what was causing the problem here?
I have a 2001 1.8 SRi with exactly the same problem and cant figure it out.
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when stationary if it crunches when you select reverse it will be the clutch dragging,advise replace, if it selects reverse ok then change the gear box oil! its common to find they have been topped up with the wrong oil/or contaminated.The diff pan will need to be removed & the car jacked up on the n/s very high to get the g/box to drain. Refit diff sump & fill box through top of g/box selector housing till oil runs out the level by the drive shaft. recheck oil level after short run. I have had a few stubborn ones & even flushed the g/boxes out with flushing agent then they drive like silk
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Thankyou for replying injection doc! I like to know how stuff works, so if you dont mind, why is it that the reverse would not be effected by crappy gearbox oil? Is this because of its placement in the gearbox or something?
Also, whats happening in the case of clutch drag that means the whole box has to be replaced? Hope it isnt that!
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Gearbox oil will not effect the selection of gears when the vehicle is stationary - it will however effect synchro action when the car is on the move (only applies to forward gears, obviously).
Clutch drag is normally due to either contamination/damage to input shaft spline (meaning centre plate is not free to move along the splines) or to some defect with the release mechanism - is the clutch properly adjusted and disengaging properly? If the problem is with the clutch plate assy. then it needs to be replaced and the input shaft thoroughly cleaned and NOT greased!
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Reverse gear isn't fitted with a syncrohnizer ( this acts as a brake to match the speed ) whilst the other gears have a coned syncro and the wrong oil & even some addatives effect the coefficent of friction on the hubs & slows the gear change down or in some cases actually makes it almost impossible to change gear.
If its suffering clutch drag you will only need a new clutch but make sure you spend money on a decent one as this vehicle is fitted with a relatively low lift clutch & the tolerences of some will spoil the way it drives. Hope this helps Try to avoid remanufactured, reconditioned clutches some are well disgised but you never know if they have done more miles than your car before there fitted.I would use valeo or LUK from experience
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