Buying advice.

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Tue 16 Jan 2024 21:32
Buying advice. - Icemen
Hi, looking for help with car choice please.

Need a car for general around town use, and reliable, budget is £10k.
I prefer small car and auto, would consider manual if auto is not a good option but really would prefer an auto.

A BMW 1 series was a car I was craving but having read a load on here, I guess it needs to stay a dream, my 2nd choice was an Audi A3 but my budget is probably too small for a good condition car so I think a Mazda 3 is probably a good choice? I ready like the shape and the interior of the Mazda, again read on here a Focus is probably the smarter choice but I don’t like the look of that car, As much as I have tried making myself like it.

I’ve looked on Mazda approved cars and would like to buy from them I but if I can get much more for my money would look else where…seen a couple of Mazda on there around 50k miles 2015-2016 for around £10k, does that sound reasonable?

From my research think a petrol 1.6 sport nav is the one to go for?

Any comments on any of this gratefully received as I know next to nothing about cars.

Edited by Icemen on 16/01/2024 at 21:33

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Tue 16 Jan 2024 21:37
Buying advice. - Adampr

Yes, it would be a good choice. As would a Mazda 2 if you don't need the room.

Do you have anywhere (i.e. off street parking) to charge an EV? There are a few electric options at £10k if you're only running around town.

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Wed 17 Jan 2024 00:58
Buying advice. - Icemen
No outside space for an electric.

Are Mazda automatics reliable?

if so would the 1.6 or 2.0 be the better choice, I’m personally not bothered about speed etc, just reliability, thanks.

Edited by Icemen on 17/01/2024 at 00:59

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Wed 17 Jan 2024 04:47
Buying advice. - DavidGlos
Are Mazda automatics reliable?

Yes. They’ve stuck with traditional torque converter units and avoided the issues that can arise with DSG and automated manual ‘boxes and some CVT units (I’m looking at you Nissan!)

Try both a 1.6 and a 2.0. The Mazda petrol units are non-turbo and need to be revved harder than some competitor turbo engines to extract the full performance, but an auto will partially mask this and avoid the scenario where you find yourself in too high a gear when power is required in the manual and you have to drop a cog or two to get the engine on song.
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Wed 17 Jan 2024 06:39
Buying advice. - catsdad

You will pay a premium for an automatic so if it’s not essential you might want to see how much newer a manual you can get for your money. The Focus with the 1.0 is best avoided at the age and budget you are considering. That engine has proved troublesome. The 1.6 is good though. And you might consider a 1.25 Fiesta.

The Mazda 3 is OK. We ran a 2012 petrol 1.6 as a second car until last year. It had fsh but every year always needed something done for the MOT, including work on rust. Later cars may be better. I know you say performance is not important but we found the 1.6 slow especially on hills and the auto is going to be even worse. The Suzuki Vitara that we replaced it with is perhaps worth a look. For £10k you would get a newer car than the Mazda and the automatic premium seems less marked on these.

Other possibilities are Honda Civics or Toyota Auris. Or going smaller, Jazz or Yaris. Again manual would get you a newer car.

Keep an eye on prices though, they do seem to be finally dropping.

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Wed 17 Jan 2024 16:49
Buying advice. - Icemen
Thank you, very helpful. Now to find one.
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Wed 17 Jan 2024 21:22
Buying advice. - Engineer Andy
No outside space for an electric. Are Mazda automatics reliable? if so would the 1.6 or 2.0 be the better choice, I’m personally not bothered about speed etc, just reliability, thanks.

Note that if you're looking at a Mazda 2 or 3, the approximate age you're looking at will only be made of:

Mazda2 (gen-3: 2015-)

1.5 N/A petrol in 75PS / 90PS / 105PS / 115PS guise. Auto only paired with the 90PS version. The 75PS isn't that slow, but the car is quite nippy in those upper power variants. My fave would be the 90PS SE-L (Nav or not) with reasonably sensible tyres fitted.

75PS version actually quite nice for a town car - I'll be recommending that to my dad as one of a list of replacements for his 20 plate Fiesta 1LT (125PS) , which he doesn't like, partly because the 75PS Mazda2 (not that slow for the power 0-60 in around 11.5-12sec) only has 5 gears, which is what he was used to with his old car.

The auto is not quick, as it's a torque converter and saps a good deal of power on the 90PS unit (0-60 in 12 sec for the auto, 9.7 for the manual). The auto box is smooth though - I test drove a Mazda CX-3 (2017) 2L auto, which I think is better matched with that bigger capacity engine, even if it's not that quick (0-60 in 9.9 for the CX-3 and 10.5 sec for the Mazda3) either.

1.5 TD. Probably fine to drive, the problem with second-hand diesels, especially Mazdas, is they IMHO have suffered reliability issues from both design flaws and not being used for what they were intended (i.e. too often on short trips from cold). Same for the larger 2.2TD in the 3rd gen Mazda3 (2014-19).

Mazda3 (gen-3: 2014-19)

5dr hatch or 4dr saloon (fastback). 50L+ more boot space in the saloon, nicer looking, but poor boot access (opening size) can be limiting. About 10 hatchbacks for every saloon/fastback (popularity). I've owned a gen-1 saloon from new (2006).

1.5 N/A petrol in 105PS version. Manual only, not quick (slightly better performance than my gen-1 Mazda3 1.6 petrol in 0-60 around 10.8 sec compared to 11.2sec for mine). Barely any better on mpg or emissions than the 2L engine. People tend to buy them as they were (not so much in the current second hand market) cheaper due to lower popularity/spec.

2L petrol in 120PS / 163PS versions. All bar the top spec variant are 120PS, including most Sport models. Technically the difference is remapping, though if done 'afterwards', this can have an impact on insurance and must be declared. The 120PS car is *fine* performance-wise (real world not as quick as the 0-60 time of 8.9sec suggests), 163PS unit better, but firmer ride on 18in rims.

1.5 TD / 2.2TD. See above for issues. 1.5TD about as quick as the 1.5 petrol, 2.2TD quite nice apparently performance wise, ok-is on fuel, but has some significant design flaws IMHO that contribute to failures, especially when combined with usage on mainly short trips from cold.

IMHO the best Mazda3 of that era to go for is the 2L SE-L (Nav or none) 120PS. Best value for money spec and is (mostly) shod on sensible 205/60 R16 tyres with little discernable handling penalty.

I'd avoid the diesels as you just cannot guarantee how it was used before you buy it (mileage isn't much of a guide). Make sure if you do put either car on your list to check through the 'Good & Bad' section on the HJ reviews area. That era Mazda2 did suffer from some A/C system issues, as did its sister car the CX-3 (same platform).

You may also may want to look at the CX-3 - a bit bigger boot (in-between the 2 and 3), BUT it comes with the 2L from the 3 and is a bit more spritely in auto form (0-60 in 9.9sec). The downside is they are the same size (quite small) in the cabin and often are overpriced at main dealers. Again, the SE-L / SE-L Nav on 16in rims is the best value IMHO.

The autos in them are reliable - tried and tested design.

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Thu 18 Jan 2024 00:45
Buying advice. - Icemen
Thanks, really appreciate the detailed reply, I’ll have to look into the SE-L as I thought the sport was the one to go for, also the Cx-3, I’ll take a look.
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Fri 19 Jan 2024 14:49
Buying advice. - Engineer Andy
Thanks, really appreciate the detailed reply, I’ll have to look into the SE-L as I thought the sport was the one to go for, also the Cx-3, I’ll take a look.

There'll be lots of Sport / Sport Nav / Sport Black variants available at main dealers, far more than the SE-L (Nav) and SE (Nav) versions because that seems to be what Mazda likes selling. Whether that actually equates to actual demand is another question. The SE-L (Nav) spec comes with quite a decent lot of kit, especially in the Mazda3.

I think that part of the reason why so many 'Sport' versions and diesels end up as second hand back on sale is because owners (this is common across most makes of car in my view) want to get rid of them after the ride on low profile tyres (and firmer suspension on some makes) firms up after 1-3 years. I suspect that owners of SE-L (Nav) models like them and keep them much longer.

This is in combination with being driven on our poor quality roads, especially when they are faced with the reality of having a car fitted with big alloys and low profile tyres - lower mpg, poorer ride quality, shorter life even if not damaged, significantly more susceptible to damage from potholes, etc and the far higher cost of replacing them (16 - 18in looking to probably x1.5 - 2 the cost, even more so for larger disparities in size).

Always get a thorough test drive (1hr and more if possible) - on a wide variety of roads / surface quality / type you are likely to drive on and at different speeds to get a good idea of what it'll be like.

Also, too many people don't make sure the seat and driving position is as best they can get it before setting off, which can give a false impression, as can a short test drive on slow speed roads. Best to have a thorough look at a car, including sitting in the driver's seat and trying to get a comfortable driving position before you even ask for a test drive.

Don't be fobbed off by a salesperson to get you to drive a spec of car you aren't interested in, as again it can give a false impression of the one you do want, especially of the wheel / tyre / suspension setup and/or performance is different. If they don't have any available, ask to give you a call when they do but also try elsewhere, and tell them as much, as that will hopefully gee them up a bit.

I had a list of about 6 cars back in 2017 and rejected two without needing a test drive - one (NIssan Pulsar) because the steering wheel was in my view significantly offset from centre, and the Volvo V40 because it didn't have a left foot rest, which for me is a must have.

Only get a specification you need, no more, given how expensive second hand prices still are, even after they've softened to some extent in recent months. They are probably still 25% over what they would be in 'normal' times, more so for older cars where some are (still) going for silly prices.

Doing so also help keep you costs down via lower insurance and parts due to less to go wrong. You also get a bit better mpg for them being a bit lighter (less gadgets and skinnier tyres).

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Thu 18 Jan 2024 09:23
Buying advice. - London calling

My wife has had a 2010 Mazda 2 1.5 petrol for 14 years, never failed a mot and only parts replaced are tyres, wiper blades and battery. Have it serviced regularly at an independent garage and we polish/wax it every couple of years and there’s no sign of rust. It’s a small car, nippy and covers long journeys ok, not the most luxurious but reliable and cheap to tun.

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Wed 17 Jan 2024 12:21
Buying advice. - SLO76
The Focus is the worst thing you could possibly buy at this money. The 1.0 Ecoboom motor is fragile and the Powershift automated manual gearbox notoriously unreliable. Avoid like the plague!

The Mazda 3 at £10k or so will be the later 2.0 Skyactiv petrol (no 1.6 was available in this model) which is an excellent option. Very hard to find an auto though so you may need to travel.

A Toyota Auris is a safe bet too, and a Honda Civic 1.8 auto is fine as long as you avoid the early 2012 models.
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Wed 17 Jan 2024 16:47
Buying advice. - Icemen
Thank you, lets see how much I want an auto, if its 100miles away a manual may not seem so bad.

Glad to hear the focus is out of the running for more than looks, been recommended it a few times now, I can now justify not wanting one a little more substantially.

Edited by Icemen on 17/01/2024 at 16:55

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Wed 17 Jan 2024 22:22
Buying advice. - SLO76
If you can live with a manual then try a manual Mazda 3 petrol, they are a joy to drive with one of the sweetest manual gearboxes you’ll find on any car.
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Thu 18 Jan 2024 00:49
Buying advice. - Icemen
Not totally counting a manual out, if I see a car with all other boxes ticked Ill probably go for it, as you say autos are not widely available,
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Thu 18 Jan 2024 08:58
Buying advice. - John F
Need a car for general around town use, and reliable, budget is £10..... prefer small car and auto,

After 4 years ownership we are still very pleased with our Peugeot 2008 1.2 EAT6

…seen a couple of Mazda on there around 50k miles 2015-2016 for around £10k, .

There are bargains to be had for the 'old shape' 2008 - you will get younger and lower mileage cars for this money, plus the bonus of a reliable Aisin autobox. Just make sure you get a 2018 or later one to avoid their historic crumbly cambelt problem.

Edited by John F on 18/01/2024 at 09:02

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Thu 18 Jan 2024 19:00
Buying advice. - Icemen
Not seen many Mazda3 2018 and also with lower than 50k mileage, only looked on auto trader and Mazda approved used cars, are independent dealers a better buying option? Any other sources I should be using?

Edited by Icemen on 18/01/2024 at 19:01

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Thu 18 Jan 2024 19:12
Buying advice. - leaseman

Have you tried searching on this site OP???

The advertisers are the only reason we exist!

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Thu 18 Jan 2024 19:42
Buying advice. - Icemen
Yes, I meant the only other resources Ive used are auto trader and Mazda, same mix on here, mainly 2015-2017, one 2018 within budget but 90k miles.
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Thu 18 Jan 2024 10:40
Buying advice. - Catfood

We are looking to replace our C4 Picasso since our son is about to pass his driving test.

We tested Skoda Fabia 1ltr TSI(95PS) and found it very nicely built and nippy in town.

I also looked at Honda Jazz(Not the latest ones) but apparently it's not Apple CarPlay nor Android compatible so we ruled it out.

I haven't tested Mazda 2 yet but may check it but we need a small engine to keep the insurance cost down.

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Thu 18 Jan 2024 18:36
Buying advice. - badbusdriver

I haven't tested Mazda 2 yet but may check it but we need a small engine to keep the insurance cost down.

It isn't the size of the engine that matters, it is the power/performance along with price of parts, security, etc. The Mazda 2's 1.5 comes with a variety of power outputs, lowest of which is 75bhp, 20 less than the Fabia you tested and 27 less than the least powerful previous shape Jazz. Also available are 90, 105 and 115bhp versions.

The Fabia could be a good shout though re insurance, nephew got a Fabia VRS 130bhp 1.9 turbo diesel as his first car. Insurance was surprisingly affordable and according to what the insurer said to him, it is because the Fabia (even the VRS apparently) is considered a "family car". Go figure!

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Fri 19 Jan 2024 08:12
Buying advice. - skidpan

We tested Skoda Fabia 1ltr TSI(95PS) and found it very nicely built and nippy in town.

We have had a 1.0 TSi 110 PS now for almost 6 years. No issues at all, has averaged about 48 mpg over those 6 years. Will do about 60 mpg on a coast trip. But when you need some fun just floor it and it goes like a stabbed rat and loves to rev.

Went to order a new one last August but on the latest cars the hand brake lever has been moved up to the passenger seat and the wife cannot fully engage it thus no good to us.

Your £10,000 budget should easily buy our 2018 example with low miles and a full Skoda history.

As for insurance it costs the Mrs just over £200 a year.

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Fri 19 Jan 2024 09:26
Buying advice. - SLO76
If the car is largely for town use then a used 40kw Nissan Leaf would make a lot of sense. They can be had with sensible miles for £12-£13k easy enough. My wife has one, it costs around £3 (home charging) for 120 miles in winter or 140/150 in summer and there’s less to service or repair. They’re extremely easy to drive and very practical. It’s no use if you can’t fit a home charger or regularly do long distance however, we use it as a second car and generally like it very much.
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