Hi thanks for the reply.

By replacement part do you mean the hcv or the wiring?

The multimeter wasn't really doing that (the flickering) - does that suggest its still the valve at fault or the wiring itself? Of course,I don't see how the valve could affect the multimeter readings if it wasn't connected at the time. I was going to replace the valve anyway but of course if it's the wiring thats a whole different job.

Of course, not knowing much about these things, I could have set up the multimeter wrong so if anyone can advise how to properly test I'd be grateful!

Thanks so much for your help! Just to make sure - both prongs shoud go into the connector i undid, one for each wire? or should one prong go into the connector on the hcv itself? It just seems strange that if I use something on the engine as an earth i get 12v (though still no flickering). Please forgive my ignorance in this!

The fuse seems fine, but I'll replace anyway.

Ahh i think I've tested it correctly then. I'm just worried that if the meter readings aren't right (I'm not getting the flickering readings etc) then it seems to be a wiring issue and not the valve? I just don;t understand that if I earth with the chassis i get 12v, but without i get very low volts.

:s

And btw is cool that you used to help your dad mend cars! I'm afraid mine was as much use with cars as I am!

yeh I've looked into the HCV and I could do it myself, though don't want to be shelling out for that if it isnt the problem and it is a wiring issue - which sounds tricky and pricey :(

With the ignition switched on,there is always 12 volts to one pin at the hcv.The valve works on a system of switched earth path via the control panel.It would be better to test the system with a light bulb across the 2 terminals,this will give a more accurate indication of the operation.The light should switch on for longer as the cooler temp is reqd.S/hand valves are a waste of time.Also check to make sure interior light fuse is not blown.hth