My first post on this forum, it seems like a very helpful informative place, so thanks in advance guys.
I bought this 1.4 HDI 206 as my first car a few months ago. When I first got it it was returning about 55mpg (urban) which is exactly what I was expecting after lots of research and searching for this particular model. I am currently unemployed (struggling musician!) so I bought this car for its great economy, low insurance group/tax e.t.c
The fuel economy has dropped considerably since I got it, now returning between 30mpg and 33mpg around town, which goes upto about 50mpg (75mpg when I first got it!) on motorway. I have not done the brim test but I always fill up by exactly 2 gallons when it hits the same point on fuel gauge. I really am very meticulous about this, as I know it's not the most accurate way of measuring fuel but I simply cannot bring myself to spend £50 in one go on fuel, until I start earning money again. I have done this since owning the car, fill up at exactly the same point every time by 2 gallons and reset fuel gauge. I consistently return 30mpg and I do this usually about twice a week.
The rear brakes were fixed recently and didn't make a bit of difference, but at least we can rule out brakes binding. My backbox has also been changed recently and the tyre pressures are fine too. My driving style is also very economical.
The car doesn't smoke much normally but I revved to full throttle a few days ago while stationary and there was a BIG cloud of black smoke the first time and then smaller ones after that but still very black. This left a visible black mark on the wet floor under my exhaust.
It has also developed a bad sounding rattle that comes and goes. I can't hear the rattle very much inside the car, if I have the radio on I won't even notice it. When I have stopped next to friends of mine they pulled faces and asked whats wrong with it, then once I wind down the window I can hear it plainly. It seems not to happen unless the engine has warmed up. I also notice a different rattle between 1.8k revs and 2.5k revs which is audible inside the car and is a different kind of rattle. It smoothes out once 2.5k revs is hit. I'm not sure if its normal for diesels as it's my first car but it certainly doesn't sound normal to me has a more ticky sound to it. The first rattle I mentioned is loudest at idle and seems to get quiter when gears are engaged and this is a most definitely not normal, has a more of clunking rattle sound to it.
So my thoughts from the reading I have done so far are MAF sensor could be faulty, or maybe I have a problem with my turbo (the rattling sound). The power delivery seems fine as far as I know. Its due an oil change which I will be doing over the next couple of days. I have already fitted a new air filter from the service kit I bought and it hasn't made any difference. Something else I read were to do with electrovalves, and the EGR valve? That stuff was all a bit over my head.
As I have said I really am completely broke so any advice on how to diagnose what this problem is without paying a garage or paying out minimal amount would be so greatly appreciated.
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Check the fuel pipes underneath the air filter first for white marks. It could mean a pipe has a slight hole in it
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I understand you may be broke but a diagnostic check will be the first step instead of guessing! Good chance it may be the MAf but could be anything. My concern would be putting 2 galls in at a time. Whilst this may not effect yours cars with DPF have a fuel cap counter & fuelling can be altered or dosing of eloys fluid can be altered by the amount of times the filler cap has been removed & refitted! Some cars have had very adverse effects by just being topped up with a few quid at a time.
I suspect you run your tank very low which is not good for an HDI, I also suspect you go out of your way to purchase the cheapest possible fuel! may not be the best. ( there will be someone along in a minuet who will say its all the same!)
Try half a tank of a well branded fuel & a bottle of comma injector majic from Halfords. Only use half a bottle with half a tank. Give it a few runs
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www.206info.co.uk/ForumsPro/viewtopic/t=69328.html
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Some nice free easy checks is the air filter clean & not restricted by leafs?
Leafs get sucked into air breather pipe and cause a restriction & then overfueling very easy overlooked and a simple check.
Fuel filter when was this last changed? what is the mileage?
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Fuel and fuel additives:
www.which.co.uk
Which? Have got a magazine (Available only at Sainsbury's) with an article
'Do fuel additives add up?'
The main finding in their test of fuel additives is that they are an expensive way to gain little or nothing in the way of better MPG, Torque, Power and emissions.
Also premium fuels are expensive for what little they do.
"If your car seems lacklustre thirsty or smokey, try giving it a motorway run (at least 50miles) to 'clear the cobwebs and jolt the electronic control unit (ECU) out of 'urban mode'. " Urban mode????????????? seems odd but it is what they say.
Also "If this does not work you may have a problem with the car in which case don't rely on fuel." Again this is a quote from their magazine.
www.which.co.uk/fueladditives.
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Macavity, how much time have you spent using fuel addatives ? more than 35 years on a daily basis?
A vehicle ECu doe snot have an "Urban mode" its has adaption learning & will often adapt to a particular driving method. It takes over 500 miles of different driving to re-adapt.
I would love you as a customer bacuse of you had a Renault with a sticky control valve in the pump I wouldn't give you the option of a cleaner ( which will cure it as i have done countless in the past ) I could just charged you for a pump or a Peugeot 406 Hdi with loss of power I would charge you for 4 injectors whereas I have fixed ,many buy using a concentrated cleaner connected to the injector rail!
When you have a sticky control valve or gumed injector pintle quite often the use of an additional fuel addative will resolve the issue.
Its an odd quote about fuel addatives gain little or nothing ! if so why do fuel companies add so many to their fuel in the first place? I will tell you why , becuase if they didn't you would have no end of problems from combustion to pump issues.
the type of fuel addatives that you buy to gain performance increase octane or cetane ratings with a marginal effect. detergent addatives for cleaning reduce water content 7 gumming of components in the pump & injectors
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Speak to Which they will be fascinated.
Is your name Scotty Kilner?
www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKGI9N_yWd0
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Nope my names not Scotty kilner! but i have been ultrasonically cleaning injectors for over 20 years & removing sticky carbon deposits from inlet & exhaust valves without removing cylinder heads for years. Every now & again a customer comes along who doesn't belive in liquid products ! so for those we have to spend hours of labour doing it all buy hand & buying many new parts & releaving you of plenty of money! lovely jubbley! wish there were more of you!
I don't worry "about which!" each to their own & horses for courses,
I think you may of missunderstood whet Which were reporting about! there is a difference between many fuel addatives & what you expect to achieve from them.
If its an adative to claim it cleans & improves injectors , then yes some do & having carried out rolling road BHP tests I can confirm some do make a big difference
But if its those that claim to gain BHP by increasing cetatne Octane ratings then its a different kettle of fish!
I think you jumped the gun causing confusion to the poor chap with his poorly 206!
A can of jollop may do nothing but supposing he fits £100's worth of parts & it doesn't fix it then puts a can of jollop in the tank for £6.00 & its fine which would you rather of done first ??
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