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buying an old BMW - DuncanSuperb
A neighbour is selling a '95 318SE manual. I haven't looked at it closely but it's described as mint with fsh and just 2 owners including my neighbour - who I've only ever known to say hello to but is retired and seems pretty respectable.

The car certainly appears to be very very clean inside and out (noting that I've only really glanced at it so far and if i take this further will obvioulsy scrutinise carefully); the car has been garaged by him for at least the last 3 years.

Here's the thing; it's only done 36k miles. Is this to be taken as a good point or might there be underlying problems with low miles? - possibly lots of short runs....

Okay - lets assume that I can be persuaded that the car's low mileage is a good thing i.e. that most of it's miles have been motorway miles, and lets assume that the paperwork all adds up, it's as clean as it sounds and my local friendly mechanic says he can't find any hidden nasties.....

Am I going to be dissappointed going from my 1999 Octavia 2.0 petrol (which is also pretty clean and drives okay if a little heavy) to a 1995 BMW 318? I'm really referring to ownership as well as driving experience. [note that my expectations are realistic - this is entering bangernomics territory afterall]

Finally, if the answer to the above question is "No" what would you advise me to pay? - I haven't told you his asking price yet to see what you think might be a fair price.

Many thanks - I'll let you know what happens.

Duncan.

buying an old BMW - oldnotbold
He may thinks it's worth too much, of course, as do many private owners of low mileage cars.

I doubt it's worth more than £750, and that would need good, recent tyres and a fresh MoT.

buying an old BMW - the swiss tony
Check the steering column very carefully....
the E36 has a problem with corrosion, in a worst case scenario the column could break.
as this car is so low mileage, it may not have been checked/replaced.
buying an old BMW - madf
I drove one for three years from new.

They are nice but really it's looks you are buying and not performance.
And with no stability aids, snow will be interesting.

And frankly if the mileage is genuine and it HAS been serviced properly it might be ok.

But £1k tops: and for that I'd expect some tax and 12 months MOT...

Edited by madf on 01/06/2009 at 19:54

buying an old BMW - Cheeky
Well, I have just done this myself. Bought a 1998 318i Convertible Auto for use as a second car/runabout. Yep, it's slow - very slow in fact, however, it really doesn't seem to matter. It's well built, well screwed together, flew through its last MOT and still looks superb especially with the hood down.
The 8 valve 318i is not a patch on the 6 cyl BMW engines, or even the 16v 318iS, however, it is smooth, and a good cruiser. £1k tops, and enjoy for as long as is feasible....

Good luck.

Edited by Cheeky on 01/06/2009 at 21:50

buying an old BMW - Pugugly
Funnily enough I saw an E39 today - in dark blue and good nick it still looked the business. Nice plain design which makes a lot of contemporary (and current cars) look like half melted jelllies.
buying an old BMW - DuncanSuperb
Thanks for the replies.

Well the seller is asking £1750 which is significantly more than some of your estimates - even after haggling down to say £1500. I have to say though that his asking price does seem conducive(ish) with current Autotrader prices (ok maybe slightly high) and if he had asked say £1250 would seem a bargain.

At the end of the day it's worth whatever one is willing to pay for it which is based on percieved value as much as residual value. The other thing and probably the most important thing is how well it drives.

I might have a closer look and see what he'll come down to if it drives better than the Skoda.

I'll let you know if this goes any further.

btw how does one check for a corroded column? (please no smutty responses)
buying an old BMW - the swiss tony
btw how does one check for a corroded column? (please no smutty responses)

Its the bit under the bonnet with the universal joints on it, if you look at Ebay item 250403152504 you will see one....
they have a habit of rusting away on the part with the hills and valleys. the problem only really occurs on RHD, because it runs close to the exhaust manifold, so gets hot, then cooled with water in wet conditions. (LHD its on the other side!)
buying an old BMW - DP
The 8 valve 318i is not a patch on the 6 cyl BMW engines


I was given an L plate E36 320i as a company car for a while. Good to drive, but it had a serious drink problem. Couldn't get any more than 28 mpg out of it driving it like a nanny, with 24 mpg being much more realistic average. Rubbish for a 150 bhp 2 litre engine. I would imagine the 318i is much more affordable.

The BMW six is an amazing engine, but I think it makes more sense in the bigger capacities where you seem to get a chunk more power without too much in the way of an economy penalty.
buying an old BMW - oldnotbold
£1500 is crazy money for a 14 year old car - even with FSH. Resist the temptation.
buying an old BMW - madf
Watch for rust: especially the metal panel adjoining the rear bumper: in the centre under the boot lock.

It's a crawl underneath job.

£1750 for a 14 year old car is ridiculous unless it is IMMACULATE with FBMWSH and needs NOTHING to be done.

(and by immaculate I mean as new)
buying an old BMW - Gromit {P}
I run a 01 318 auto saloon (registered April, so 115bhp and 4 speed GM auto; 80000 miles) , my father-in-law used to run a '98 318 manual, and my father runs a 03 1.6 Octavia estate (50000 miles) so I know something of both cars.

My main question is: why would you change a newer car, which is a known quantity, for an older one that you don't know as well?

From driving 'our' BMWs and Skoda, both feel well screwed together, and neither show their age when cleaned well inside and out. If maintained by a capable independent, neither should cost much more than the other to run (VAG parts - from Skoda parts departments in Ireland, at least - aren't as cheap as you might expect).

The Skoda is the more practical car for load space; neither are great for rear passenger room (check for front passenger leg room if you intend fitting a child seat). The 318s ride is much more comfortable than the Skoda, which feels harsh over bumps, has very firm seats, and is prone to wind noise. That said, the Skoda handles poorly surfaced roads better - the BMW suspension tends to bottom out on potholes, ridges or rasied kerbs. The 318 isn't a ball of fire, but its quick enough for sensible dual carriageway and motorway work, and quite relaxing to drive in auto form. At 26-29mpg it does like a drink - the 1.6 Octavia averages mid-30s.

I would expect either to last well to high mileage if cared for, but my money would be on the Skoda to tolerate a life of hard work better.

Are you going to be disappointed moving to a 318 from an Octavia? Probably not, unless you regularly carry large loads. Are you going to be impressed? Probably not, unless you spend most of your time coasting along the motorway at a steady 70mph.
buying an old BMW - DuncanSuperb
Grommit i think you've confirmed what i already knew and your description of the Octavia is spot on - there is really no logical reason to change. what's the saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it"? The problem is that cars and blokes is a different story... we like to try something different. At least a wandering eye doesn't result in a slap from SWMBO if it's another car you're looking at.


buying an old BMW - gordonbennet
I feel for the seller of this fine car, it's a bit of a shock when you realise just how little such a nice car is worth...i hope he hasn't already replaced it, as he may well be better keeping it, i would, it seems a shame to let such a nice car (and will be much nicer to drive than the vast majority of FWD euroboxes) go for peanuts.

It'll probably go on for another 10 years with reasonable maintenance and almost zero depreciation.

The above estimates of the cars worth are amusing, taking no account whatsoever of it being extremely low mileage and probably superb condition, they have assumed the value to be the same as chavved up 6 dodgy ownered blacked out windowed rubbish.
Wouldn't want to be the one to offer the current owner under a grand for it...light the blue touch paper and stand clear.

It's downfall is that it's a 4 pot, when much of the pleasure of this type of proper car is in the smooth effortless power of a 6 cyl when coupled through an easy auto, if it was a coupe 6 cyl auto it would be very desirable but fairly heavy on juice.
buying an old BMW - Cheeky
Re. the MPG query, the little 1.8 is seriously impressive I have found. I brimmed the tank with a majority of motorway and town driving and have done almost 300 miles. I still have 1/3 tank left. And that's an auto too.
My other car is a 3.0 X type, so perhaps I'm just enjoying the contrast....!!
buying an old BMW - Blue {P}
I had an E36 that started life as a 316i and became a 318i shortly before I parted ways with it and I have to say that it was a fine car.

Handled impeccably, looked smart even as it aged, was well screwed together and was just a generally nice car to own.

Interestingly, I got 27mpg from the 316i and 30mpg from the 318i which felt noticeably quicker and was generally more rewarding to drive.

Duncan - by asking a value question on here you will always be presented with a lower value than the market would suggest, I would think the seller is being realistic for such a low mileage car, it should be nearly as new just like mine was when I got rid of it at nearly double the mileage!

If you're bored of the Octavia (which lets face it, is the only logical reason to do this, no other argument stands scrutiny) and want something different then I suggest you buy it!


buying an old BMW - Mapmaker
1. Autotrader prices are a starting point for negotiation. Yet your neighbour is after a price yet higher. Just bide your time a while, and he'll accept £1,000 for it in the end. And if he doesn't, there will be a better, cheaper one out there.

2. Can you afford to throw the money away? remember, this is a complicated car, and spares will be expensive. Lots of things could write it off - following which, it will be worth £25 scrap.

3. No 14 year old car, unless museum condition, is worth over £1,000 (unless it is a Fiesta or similar small car?!)


4. Given the above, go for it. You should get £500 for your current motor. But make sure you are buying 12 months' MOT.

5. Low mileage, high mileage, whatever. When did you last hear of a car dying as a result of engine failure?