Ive had a bad idle problem since I got this car 8 months ago and Im still no closer to solving the problem. Ive done#
Coil Pack x2
Spark Plugs x 2
Temp Sensor (Needed doing anyway)
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
HT Leads x 2
Taken Voltage from Battery seems ok
Taken to Ford for a scan no codes they just updated my ECU software??
Cleaned the idle control valve
The problem is this when I stop at lights/junctions the engine vibrates, sometimes the whole car. It gets worse at night when lights are on etc and you can tell due to, flickering lights inside and out, when you have the rear heated window on, even the heater blowers slow down due to lack of power when idle. The whole car shakes. I have now borrowed a live data scanner from my friend but I need help reading the data and seeing if the readings are ok. Can anybody help this car is driving me mad now. Link to data screen shot i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss206/gaz1250/Scan.jpg
{Volume in header lowered}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 05/02/2009 at 21:10
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the only thing that i can see is that the base idle is very low when loaded, i would expect to see somewhere around 850rpm the dealer should be able to raise the idle speed via their diagnostic machine, ask to talk to the tech that will be doing the job explain to them what the fault is even sit in the car and demonstrate the "fault" assuming they can raise the base idle speed then you can almost chose the right speed just enough to dial the vibrtion out rather than guessing at a number of rpm's. Rgards TB
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Surprised there is no battery and/or charge voltage figure in the readouts unless I missed it?
Fault could even be a weak alternator!
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i agree the alternator could be dragging the rpm down perhaps the op can post batt voltage running with and without load,and also the battery size (55,60 ,65 ah) and wether the battery has been changed recently
Edited by topbloke on 05/02/2009 at 20:52
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... and whether the battery's cadmium or not.
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I see that the idle control valve has been cleaned.I would suggest thst a new one be fitted.hth
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I will post the battery volt etc soon.
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Ok the battery underload, the readings is 13.5 to 14.8 it moves up and down When idle its 14.8 to 15.0.
But also now we are talking about the battery etc I do know that when the car has been sat for say 2 days the dash sometimes goes crazy for a few minutes when first started until the car has been run for a while. Could this be related? I thought it was linked to the Focus Dash watchdog thing that has been reported on many times and not the battery. see here www.rac.co.uk/web/forum/showthread.php?t=1926&high...h
Thanks for everyone help so far...
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Just a thought - but have you cleaned/checked the ground connections to the chassis, Engine & ECU?
James
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Looking at the voltage figures I think thats where the problem lies.
Needs proper alternator/battery/charging system check.
Guessing its going to need battery and alternator though!
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Sorry to bring this post back from the dead but two months later and Im still no closer to solving the problem. Ive now fitted a new TPS and cleaned the Idle Valve again next job is to buy a new idle valve I think. Im pretty sure the alt and the battery are not at fault.
But Id just like to ask when the car is "coasting" (just let off the accelerator and let the car slow its self) the revs are dragged down at a steady but not correct speed until it hits roughly 1000rpm revs and then the engine springs to life like it supposed to and then when it passes the 1000rpm point it drags again until it hits 750/800rpm (and then the idle problem kicks in). As if there is something restricting the revs at every rpm apart from around the 1000rpm mark. (THIS IS HARD TO EXPLAIN IN A MESSAGE) Is this normal and what could be causing this Im sure the idle problem and this stickie/holdingback rev thing is linked in some way?
Also the car idles a lot better when the fan is on, but if any other electrical load is on it idles worse? Any thougts please?
Ive tried so many garages including dealers and I get fobbed off with try this and that and o it needs a service when I have already done it it drives me crazy.
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Any body please?
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The Oxygen sensor data between sensors one and two doesn't add up
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Some basic details needed :
What battery is fitted, acid or calcium ?
What exhaust gas readings are you getting ?
Are they within range/normal ?
What fuel are you using ?
Edited by MikeTorque on 15/04/2009 at 23:39
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SQWhat fuel are you using ?
Normal unleaded from Shell etc
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 16/04/2009 at 20:28
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Some basic details needed :
What battery is fitted, acid or calcium ? Acid i think
What exhaust gas readings are you getting ? Not tested since last MOT
Are they within range/normal ?
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The Oxygen sensor data between sensors one and two doesn't add up
Please explain further. What should the reading be please?
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The battery should be a calcium type, that's the most likely cause of the dash dials going crazy, ensure a calcium type is fitted.
What fuel brand do you use ? (BP, Shell, mixtures of brands etc.)
You could pop the car into an MOT service garage to have the exhaust gases checked, it doesn't have to have an MOT, just need to check/get the exhaust readings analysed.
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What fuel brand do you use ? (BP Shell mixtures of brands etc.)
a mixture yes
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 18/04/2009 at 19:10
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dials going crazy ensure a calcium type is fitted. What fuel brand do you use ? (BP Shell mixtures of brands etc.) You could pop the car into an MOT service garage to have the exhaust gases checked it doesn't have to have an MOT just need to check/get the exhaust readings analysed.
Car has just been MOT'ed and passed the exhaust tests>> The battery should be a calcium type that's the most likely cause of the dash
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Hey,
When you take your foot off and leave the car in gear - you're in "negative torque" mode where the car is turning the engine. The ECU stops the injectors to save fuel. When the rev's drop to ~1000 or so then the ECU will pickup the injectors to keep the engine from dying. I believe the ECU also opens the ICV as well.
Its how it works in my Fiesta so I assume the Focus does similar.
James
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snipquote!!!!
Thanks so your saying my prob around 1000rpm is normal?
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 18/04/2009 at 03:42
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Two things here, ensure you have a calcium battery fitted, all sorts of weird things can occur with an acid battery.
Ensure you use a single brand of fuel and stick with it, mixing different brands of fuels will mix the additives of each brand as well as resulting in dilution of the additives, which can result of unpredictable engine problems. Empty your current tank as much as possible then put in around 10 litres of something like BP Ultimate (or some similar) and then run the car until the tank is almost empty, then fill the tank up with the same brand.
Let us know what happens after confirming the above 2 changes.
The 1000 rpm etc. upon deceleration is when the fuel will start to enrich into the engine and part of a normal anti-stalling mechanism of any car.
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You could try cleaning the MAF sensor. and check all the pipework and manifold on the inlet side after the MAF for leaks.
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My car does not seem to have a MAF?? Petrol and battery changed still no difference
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Hi Sorry to bring this up again. Does anybody know what the O2 sensor readings should be please?
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Hi was just wondering if you managed to get to the bottom of your focus problems?
Your probs sound identical to mine.
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