>>This machine has a separate brake and clutch system.
In that case, you need to top up the brake system, and remove excess fluid from the clutch master cylinder. The rest of the method remains applicable.
Although it sounds an odd method, it's much more likely to work than bleeding the right way.
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Find out where the fluid is coming out, master or slave cylinder (or perhaps a leak at one of the feed hose unions). Replace seals or cylinder if necessary. Bleed using the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder by pumping the clutch pedal. With some systems you may have to bleed the master cylinder first.
You don't even have to put a tube on the nipple. If there's air in the system the fluid 'splatters' out of a (barely cracked) nipple. When the air has been expelled the fluid squirts smoothly and you can close the nipple. Don't get any fluid on the exterior paint of the car though.
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>>Bleed using the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder by pumping the clutch pedal.
It's the obvious technique, which sometimes works Lud, but, I've got into bother using that method more than once - hence my recommendation to bleed backwards.
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Is this an external to the gearbox slave cylinder or id the head of the slave buried in the gear bax as I am concerned that the leak is there and potentially contaminating your clutch. Regards Peter
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When I look under the bonnet, the clutch resevoir has a braided line down to what I assume is the actuator, an aluminium casting bloted to the bulkhead, projecting forwards like a finger. Another line, like a brake pipe, comes out of this, and heads off towards the area I suppose the clutch to be in. I can't see how to bleed the thing. I think the leak is likely to be where the actuator rod pushed by the clutch pedal enters the casting that's bolted to the bulkhead, from the inside. There is evidence of some fluid there.
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>>I can't see how to bleed the thing.
Follow the pipe from the clutch master cylinder (aluminium casting bloted to the bulkhead), and it should go to the gearbox or clutch bellhousing area via a length of flexy. There, you either find a slave cylinder outside the bellhousing with a bleed nipple, or, if the slave cyclinder is concentric with the gearbox input shaft, you'll just find a metal block with a bleed nipple on it.
If there's an external slave cylinder, it will be obvious if it's leaking. If it's a concentric type, you'll have to remove an inspection bung, and have a nosey into the bellhousing to see if it's leaking or not.
Obviously, repairing/replacing a concentric type if needed is a major job, requiring the engine and gearbox to be seperated. During such major work, it's usual to fit a complete clutch kit, as the price of the labour by far outstrips the price of the parts.
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