Hey guys and girls, (is there a lassie here with an i10?),
Now we all have our beautiful i10's how will you clean the thing? !
Pressure water jet?
Bucket and detergent?
Garage car wash(!!) ?
Waterless system?
Diamondbright it?
What?
Albert.
Edited by Pugugly on 20/09/2008 at 11:25
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As a soon to be i10 owner I would:
Hose her down to remove the dust and get the rest of the dirt soaking
Fill two buckets, one with a quality wash product (Megs Gold if you want to spend, Halfords advanced wash if you want to save a bit)
Load up the wash mit from the suds bucket and wash her with sweeping movements, using the clean water to rinse the mit then reload from the suds and repeat until car is washed
Hose down again
Dry with a nice soft fluffy microfibre cloth
Add a coat of polish then wax
Or something like that. I'm no expert but some pointers I have learnt:
Never use the same thing to wash the body as you use on the wheels - keep them apart
Never use a sponge as no matter how much you rinse a car there will always be dirt and the relative hard surface of a sponge picks up said dirt and then you are in effect sanding the car - how many motors do you see with swirls these days?
Give her a good waxing now and again - keeps the paintwork in good condition.
For a more professional view on car washing just stick "car detailing" into an internet search engine and see what you come up with!
How are you enjoying the i10?
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On new paint
Yes: wax. No: polish.
Yes: sponge (check it's free of grit or other debris) or chamois. No: brush.
Edited by AlanGowdy on 20/09/2008 at 11:05
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How long before polish on new paint?
(Nice morning for washing the car!)
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How long before polish on new paint? (Nice morning for washing the car!)
I would have thought that the paint would be old enough when the owner receives it? I'm there must be at least a couple of weeks between the car being sprayed and the owner receiving it?
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Had it a week. Only done 200 miles.
Boot much too small. Also when the rear seats are folded down to increase its size, the rear of the rear seats are cloth so they will get a real pasting when folded to form the floor of the extended boot. My old Fiesta (bless her litle cotton socks!), had steel backs so could withstand everything.
But other than that, I am well satisfied with my little 'Indian takeaway!"
Amazing value for money as it was same price that my Fiesta was 10 years ago!
That only had one air bag and manual locking. No A/C and not even central locking, etc etc etc.
But my new i10 Comfort is getting slightly dusty now....so may part exchange it for new clean one! ;-)
Are those garage valeting boys any good I wonder that seem to be spreading?
Also thinking of fitting an 'invisible' rear parking sensor...the Parking Dynamics PD1.
Anyone tried it, I wonder?
Albert.
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Look on the Detailing World website for all things car wash related. Those boys are dedicated. One thing they do recommend is the two bucket method - suds in one bucket, and another of clean water in which to rinse the wash mit before applying more suds. You get rid of any grit, which prevents you from scratching the paint.
We have had our i10 for two weeks now. OH is still very happy with it. I was going to post a mini review but haven't had a chance to drive it yet. Impressions so far are that it is excellent value for money, quite spacious, comfy. Dislikes so far are that the ride is quite bumpy (though our local roads are pretty bad), and the interior is very plasticky. Not had occasion to use the boot, but I agree it is tiny.
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It's an i10 - they're tiny. Can't you just pop it in the kitchen sink? :-)
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Polishes often contain abrasives to restore the shine to slightly dull older paint. Undesirable on new paint, where the priority is to protect.
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I'd wash it, clay it, then put on Autoglym Super Resin Polish, topped off with AG Extra Gloss Protection. That little combo would give you smooth, sparkling paint that should stay that way for at least 6 months to a year.
I'm doing my gran's car this week in the same manner and am quite looking forward to it.
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I got mine treated with Diamondbrite (ducks head, waits for abuse).
The routine for mine is a good hose down with plenty of clean water, a bucket of suds using the proper Diamondbrite shampoo. I just bought a wash mitt so I can now ditch the sponge. By the sounds of it, a second mitt may be in order for the wheels.
I'll try the two bucket technique for all future washes (it's only been washed twice so far). Once a month, it will get an extra rinse off with Diamondbrite Conserver. Hopefully that will keep it looking good.
By the way, are the silicone drying blades worth a try? It's only a tiny car, but still a pain to leather down every time.
TJ
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Call me cynical but apart from a good washing as described above isn't the reality that a mechanical defect is likely to put the car off the road long before the metalmouse works its magic? I know Hyundais have a 5 year warranty and that mechanically - like most cars - it will live on for some time after that but then something will go bang (or sssss) and the cost of that will be uneconomic to repair and a perfectly good looking car will be confined to the recycling yard. An example? What about an ABS pump? 7 year old shiny i10 - £1000. Failed ABS pump - £??. Keep it clean but its no DB9, lets have a sense of proportion here!
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Myself, I wouldn't use a water blade. I would worry that any dirt left behind is caught up on the blade and the paintwork is scratched.
You can get some nice microfibre towels which just soak up the water - they are large enough to just lay on the bodywork and the water is sucked up.
To some all this talk or washing cars may seem anal, but sometimes just changing the equipment you use or a slightly different method is all it takes to keep the paintwork looking nicer for longer. It may be a £7k car, but to some it will be their only form of motoring so why shouldn't they want to take a bit of care and attention in looking after it?
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I couldn't get on with a cheapo water blade I bought from Halfords
Edited by ifithelps on 22/09/2008 at 17:46
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You can get some nice microfibre towels which just soak up the water -
>>
Who sells them?
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By the way are the silicone drying blades worth a try?
I've been using one for 3 yrs now and not yet seen any scratches made by it. The one I have is called a hydroblade. Bought for something like a fiver from the local market.
shinyautos.com/shop/images/hydroblade.jpg
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I never fail to be impressed at the amount of effort some people go to to clean their car. I'm far too lazy for all that so it's off to the local car wash once a monthish, or whenever my hand gets dirty opening the door. Admittedly I clean the windows and lights when filling up so the car washing is a purely cosmetic thing.
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> beautiful i10's
huh? with glasses that rose tinted i wouldnt bother cleaning it - you wont see the dirt
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tinyurl.com/3nlyyw
recommended drying towel.
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Aldi are doing microfibre towels at the moment, so I've bought a couple (£3.99). Mentioned on the DW forum as being OK.
The blade has been consigned to clearing water off the windows in a morning.
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You can get microfibre towels in Poundland (3 for £1) - in fact, most of the cheapy shops do them.
I agree, cheap modern cars will become 'uneconomic to repair' long before they are scrapped due to rust. Things seem to have moved on quite a bit and you don't seem to see as many rusty cars these days. We are looking at our i10 as (hopefully) giving us 5+ or so years of trouble-free motoring and then being worth very little.
I saw a bit of Top Gear the other day. They had an i10 going round cones on a track. James May referred to it as a Hyundai 'i-e-o' which I thought was quite funny. Clarkson corrected him.
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So yet more work now....How do you clean rose tinted glasses? :-)
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See this two bucket method that is always raved about - I just don't get it!
The idea is you wash a bit of car, then rinse your mitt in the bucket of clean water and then put into your soapy water to wash the next bit. Supposedly by doing this then no grit is passed into the soapy bucket from your mitt as it goes into the clean water?
So after you have done the next panel, and you rinse it in the "clean" bucket, which is actually dirty from the last panel, and now has all the grit from the last panel in it as well?
So why not use the one bucket method? The two bucket method does not mean the grit etc is leaving the "process", it just means your splitting the process between two buckets surely?
Or am I being fick?
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The idea is that the grit will sink to the bottom of the "dirty" bucket, keeping the suds bucket relatively clean. The "dirty" bucket should ideally have a grit guard in it, which is a piece of plastic that you draw the wash mit over, pulling the grit off which then sinks below the grit guard and keeps it out of harms way.
Plenty of gadgets to spend your money on!
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Why not use a hose fed brush? Constant clean water all the time!
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