Hello all
After getting the "DIESEL ADDITIVE MINIMUM LEVEL" message on the multifunction display of my 53 plate 307SW 2.0 HDi, I bought a top-up kit from a Peugeot dealer. It consists of a 3 litre bottle of the EOLYS fluid, an empty 1 litre bottle, a tube and a tap.
Having read this and other forums I realise that after filling the tank I'll need to get the additive dosing ECU and the main ECU reset.
The problem is that the kit comes with no instructions and it's not obvious how to fill it. If anyone has managed to do this job I'd be grateful for any tips.
Many thanks,
Richard
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Sorry I can't help on this question. I was thinking of buying a 307 and I wondered if anyone could please tell me if diesel additive is needed on all models. I was thinking of the 2.0 HDi 90hp version and Iv'e not heard it mentioned on this. I know it's needed on the 110 and 136 as well as the 1.6.
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Richard
It's not a nice, or easy, process - get a copy of the full instructions. Don't forget you'll need an exchange FAP too if it's done over 50K.
Alan
Look in the VIN number for 9HZ [1.6] RHS and RHR [2.0.] Those are the FAP-equipped ones. The 90hp RHY doesn't have one.
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Thanks screwloose. Any idea where I might find a copy of the instructions?
Richard
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Richard
Outside of a dealers - no. You'll just have to try the owners forums and hope someone has "liberated" a copy - unless Haynes cover it?
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Are you right about the interval Screwloose? If he's got the 3 litre refill does that make the FAP interval 75kmiles or 120k kilometers?
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Yes; that's the "stated" interval. As a general rule; once the Eolys is gone, there's usually enough residue in the FAP to cause problems shortly afterwards, so it's best to thoroughly service the whole system at one go and prevent the rolling nightmare that these can become.
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Thanks for your help Screwloose, but more woes, I'm afraid.
I managed to get the EOLYS tank filled and took the car to the local Peugeot dealer to have the additive ECU reset.
They reset the particulate additive counters to zero and reported a permanent fault showing the fuel cap missing. I returned the car the following week for them to replace a faulty fuel cap sensor. Now they are telling me that the ECU is saying that the EOLYS tank is again empty and they can't clear the fault, a bit hard to believe if they managed to reset the counters last week. They're suggesting that the additive ECU may be broken. Is that likely?
Is resetting the additive counters the same thing as clearing the "additive tank empty" fault? If so it's hard to believe that they did it first time and can't do it again.
This little episode has already cost £260 (without the cost of the EOLYS) and I'm worried that they are just going to throw bits at the problem until its fixed.
Any advice (apart from throwing the car away) will be much appreciated.
Richard
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Richard
I don't call these a "rolling nightmare" for nothing. It can take hours to get even a new additive ECU set-up. [Try programming-in a new key! These 307s are universally hated by the techs; but loved by the service managers...]
A duff additive ECU is very possible [some change them automatically] but none of them will re-set with the cap sensor fault active - so how did they re-set it last time? The additive counter sets the "empty" code, which will then clear.
That £260 is nothing; £1000+ is far from rare to service a FAP system - and you haven't even tackled the FAP itself yet; the Eolys is only a small part of the job.
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Thanks again, Screwloose. I fear the nightmare is starting to roll. What started as a "two hour job" has spilled over into its third day. To avoid me being hoodwinked by the boys at Peugeot, would you help me with a couple of points?
1. When I say they "reset the additive counters" I'm quoting what appears on the invoice. Does their use of the the plural suggest there is more than one counter? If so, are they located in the main ECU, the additive ECU or both?
2. If the new fuel cap sensor cleared the fault, doesn't that suggest that the additive ECU is OK?
3. When I spoke to the service manager he started to bluster and threw in the possibility of the FAP differential pressure sensor being faulty. Wouldn't a duff pressure sensor give a different error message? Does the pressure sensor connect to the main ECU? If so I can't see how it could generate a "DIESEL ADDITIVE MINIMUM LEVEL" message.
Again, I'm worried that they're just going to fit new bits until it works, so any info you can give would help me persuade them not to take that route.
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jen
Only one "counter" - slang term anyway. It's in the additive ECU.
Depends on which fault; doesn't really prove owt.
Pressure sensors are usually wet/faulty and an automatic change. That's a re-gen sensor and is indeed connected to the engine ECU with it's own codes. Any additive codes are additive ECU based.
Generally; anything dosing-related is an additive matter, so cap sensors, tank injector, et al are it's business. Once the fuel leaves the tank; it passes into the engine ECU's purview and that controls the re-gens and the FAP status.
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Thanks a lot for that, Screwloose. I await Peugeot's response with trepidation!
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Here's the update.
I collected the car from the Peugeot garage on Friday. The "two hour" job took three days and I was expecting a huge bill. However I was surprised when it was "only" £285.16, of which £260.15 was labour, which I think equates to three hours.
From your previous posts, Screwloose, I'm guessing that setting the thing up after fitting the fuel cap sensor gave them some serious grief, which is why they took three days. I believe that the info I had from this forum put me in a position to argue effectively with the service manager, who talked about replacing the additive ECU, the differential pressure sensor etc.
Thanks again Screwloose for helping me to avoid a much bigger bill!
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jen
Glad to help - now sell it before the really big bills arrive!
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hi could you tell me is the EOLYS tank i have had a look near the back wheel and its not ther so any help with this would be rearly good
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A question for Screwloose. Can you clarify your earlier reply please in which you said that 90hp RHY engines do not have this system. Could you tell me if there is more than one type of 90hp engine some of which have this or are they all the user friendly RHY type.
Many thanks Alan.
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Alan
There are a plethora of HDi engines; only the engine code differentiates them. There are 1.6 90hp units too; so always check that VIN number to be sure.
The RHY is a slug; see if you can find an RHZ.
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Is the 90bhp RHY engine problematic, or just less fun to drive compared to the 110bhp RHZ?
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The RHY is pointless; it's just a de-tuned RHZ - nothing in it problems-wise.
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The RHY is pointless; it's just a de-tuned RHZ - nothing in it problems-wise.
Using that logic, most of the BMW's on the road are pointless! Aren't the 118d and 318d just detuned 120d and 320d?
I admit that the RHZ in my car was a lot livlier than the RHY even in a lighter car.
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SeeFive- no, the cars you mention still have a decent amount of power and are an entertaining drive. Sadly, the HDi 90 SL refers to is, just as he says- a slug. Slow, not that economical, dire handling.
IMHO, of course.
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Have just read this thread, as I came on to try and understand the message on my console.
Reading this I am definitely taking it for someone else to do!
One thing has worried me though - the comment lower down about selling before the really big bills arrive. Is this car truly a nightmare beyond 100K? (Mine's a 2002 52 110 HDI). It's too good a driver to get rid of, although I suppose a three year old one with the 136 bhp engine would be a better bet ...??
Who else makes such good value 7 seaters that stick to the road like this?
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