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Having trouble with my 1997 1.3 Endura Fiesta stalling everytime I come to a stop. Engine runs ok when going and drives well apart from the stalling. Think its the idling speed but don't know how to adjust. Can anyone help?
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ken
Very, very, common fault on all the many fuelling variants of this engine. There is no manual adjustment and don't let anyone fiddle, as the idle speed is under ECU control.
The exact method that it uses depends on what make and type of injection equipment is fitted. Have a look at the silver data plate for the two letters against MOT or ENG and come back with them.
Does it idle normally when stationary?
Edited by Screwloose on 19/03/2008 at 17:22
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Hi!
I had a look at the silver data plate but couldn't find any MOT or ENG to look for any letters next to them. The only letters in sequence on the plate, apart from the vehicle information number are QV on the left hand column or JAS on the main.
It very rarely idles when stationary. When it does it slows down untill it nearly stalls then kicks in, then slows down then kicks in etc. Only real time is in the morning when first starting.
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ken
As that could be a J4S stamping; [although there's no "S" variant listed] this should be a multi-point injection one with four injectors.
On those, the idle speed is controlled by a solenoid valve right on the front of the curving inlet manifold. It's fitted with two bolts and has a circular disc on the front; remove it [and it's plug] clean it out with carb cleaner [petrol if you must] and lube it with WD40.
If that doesn't improve things; listen for any hissing leaks into the inlet manifold.
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The most likely culprit is the IACV and you should clean it well with WD-40 (soak it in it for 20 minutes shaking it and spraying it to that there is no black dirt inside in the end.
I had a similar problem and it was very tricky and they couldn't fix it in the garage. In my case it didn't stall every time but every 10 times.
- It wasn't the IACV (I cleaned it and replaced it with the new one)
- It wasn't the TPS
- It wasn't the clutch switch
- It wasn't the dirty throttle plate
But couple of days ago I fixed it - and it was a very primitive problem, no sensor and no electronics. Here's how it goes:
- The problem was that the engine was not getting enough air because the throttle (butterfly valve) was closing too much. There is a screw that acts as a limiter (see the picture) but you can't adjust it because it's bolted from the inside. But you can screw a nut on it so that it limits it one mm higher.
You can try the following way:
- start the engine - rev it a little and then disconnect the IACV
- if the engine stops when lowering the throttle to the end then you
can try this fix (of course, clean the IACV first because dirty IACVs
are the most common cause for stalling)
- After installing the nut the engine should not die with IACV disconnected
but it should struggle to keep running
Of course, you should LOWER THE TPS VOLTAGE after doing this so that it can recognize the idle and not over-rev (this can be very nasty). With 0.4V it works perfectly for me. You can adjust the TPS voltage by elongating it's mounting holes and turning it in the direction the throttle turns. Measure between minus (chassis) and the center TPS pin.
If the new nut-limit is too high it will take a little longer for the engine to adjust the idle speed, and if it's much too high it will be unable to adjust it and if will idle too high. The spot is also very difficult to reach but it's possible to install the nut without taking the throttle body off with the help of some tool to hold it while turning it with your finger from the right side. You should also put something on the throttle to keep it open while doing that. To fasten the nut you can use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap it tangentially. In my case the nut was just a little bit to big so I filed it a little in place.
Here's the image:
www.ffdi.hr/~hdagelic/endura-e.jpg
Edited by hrvoje dagelic on 28/04/2008 at 12:07
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...that was not a fix; it seemed that it was because it was really working. for some time
Couple of days ago the car failed the emission test miserably and after a long measurement I discovered that the lambda sensor was sporadically failing and while in the "bad phase" it gave the command to make the mixture richer ant it seems that it was so rich that it choked the engine at idle.
After I replaced the lambda sensor it passed the emission test with flying colors an it didn't stall once in the last 2 days (although I can't guarantee that it won't but I'm pretty convinced)
If you tried the IACV and other things here's how you can diagnose your lambda sensor:
- Get an voltmeter; some recommend against an analogue one and say that it can damage the sensor due to low resistance but I used it; just put it to the 10V range not lower. It worked for me but...hmmm...
- get some wire (the type that has little thin ones inside) remove the insulation, and make two thin wires.
- put the thin wires in the holes of the multiplug of the lambda sensor where the black wire (signal +) and the gray wire (signal -) connect. Bend them down so they wouldn't leave the holes when you connect the male plug and make sure they don't connect with each other!
- connect the voltmeter to the wires (+ black, - gray), start the car and watch what happens (if nothing happens for a long time; check the connections first).
- In a minute or so the voltage should go up to around 0.8V and as the engine heats up it should begin to swing between 0.2 and 0.8 volts around once or twice every two seconds. If it doesn't rev the engine little higher. When the voltage is low (0.2) this indicates a lean mixture; too much air; and when it's high this means that there is too little air and too much fuel. The swinging occurs because the ECU is regulating the ratio.
In my case the sensor was behaving fine and I did 6 measurements in 4 hours (because I was curious) and it showed faulty behaviour on the 6th one! The fault was that the sensor was staying at zero and even going into negative and at that time the engine had a tendency to stall when lowering throttle to idle (and smelled bad:). If you can, you can try to measure the sensor when the car is in it's "stalling phase".
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I have the same engine in my Ford Ikon (year 2000 model with fuel injection and 60ps), Ford Fiesta with a boot sold in India with same 1.3 Endura Engine. I am experiencing same problem with idling speed. I took out idle control valve, cleaned it, sprayed WD 40 and put it back on. Also I diconnected the battery for 30 min and connected back again to reset ECU. when I started the engine, idle was fine and the engine did not stall on slowing down. But after couple of days the engine started at high RPM when starting coldand after few seconds suddenly the RPM went down and the engine stalled while idling also the engine stalls again while slowing down on the move. I think cleaning the idle control valve did help but not for too long. Also I checked for any leakages in the air inlet duct and there were none. Surely something to do with Idle Control Valve. Now in India Ford does not make 1.3 endura engines for the last 8 years. Can I get some help on this?
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