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I would think that anything longer than around 3 weeks standing is asking a little too much from the battery.
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It was quite a few weeks but surely a new battery wouldn't go flat on it's own?
(It may have gone flat in days, I've now started a controlled test!!)
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I've just been through this on my car,Gunson's Autotune meter showing a half amp drain on the interior lighting circuit,with the lights off.
The method I used was to first eliminate any obvious drains by pulling appropriate fuses ,i.e.alarm,radio,remote locking.Disconnect the battery positive and connect a voltmeter between it and the connection{except the starter cable).If there is a reading there is a drain,you can determine which circuit it is on by pulling fuses until it goes.
If you have no fault but the problem persists you could try a solar panel top up charger,plugs into the cig lighter.They work well in the summer,don't know about this time of year tho.
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If initial checks do not reveal the cause of the drian remember that a faulty diode pack or regulator in the alternator can draw current so check the current drain with the alternator disconnected. However beofre doing that ensure that the battery is actually being charged, go for a run say 2 or 3 miles come home and leave the engine running with no lights or fans running, now measure the voltage across the battery, it should be 14 to 14.25 volts and with lights and heater on and the engine at 2000rpm the voltage should be at least 13.75 volts or there abouts. Regards Peter
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how much current is drained whilst the immobiliser led is flashing on and off continuously , ive often left my car on the drive for weeks at a time and it fires up at the first attempt?, but on the other car if the interior light came on (by itself... faulty switch) all night it would be as flat as a pancake by morning
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Just to let you know about what I think is a good find. I bought a multimeter adaptor device from Maplin last week which eliminates the need to disconnect the battery and loose radio codes etc.
www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=217881
The MINI version is for the mini fuses.
The MAX version is for standard fuses (not maxi like it says on the packaging).
Just plugs into the fusebox. There are standalone meters as well but they only go to 10mA accuracy.
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If you remove the permanent feed fuse to the radio to insert the adaptor then the code is lost anyway. Beware. Regards Peter
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Checking Alarm Drain. Car and models vary and you have to let the system arm itself, sometimes 3 mins, before the current call to the minimum. The Flasking LED can be as low as 4 millamps during the on burst and some alarms only draw 10ma total. However Ultrasound, RF and volumetric are thirsty and 40 to 80 ma is common. Be aware that some cars draw ECU currents until they auto shut down and this shut down allows the alarm to fully arm. If they do not do this the battery voltage fluctuation can trigger the alarm. This may cause you to have the current meter on a higher range than you need to actually measure the quiescent current. To overcoem this you may have to bridge the meter with a short, let the car settle then remove the short to allow the meter to read the current drawn. Regards Peter
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