Hi All,
Just bought an MX3 (1.8i V6 version, 1996 at 77k). It needs a service soon, so I'm gonna start with the oil and work my way along.
Now I know about the HLAs, and how they can get clogged up. I've also heard some people recommend doing an Engine Flush during the oil change to clear them of any debris etc. I've also found sites with things like Wynns Engine Flush. Now although this seems like a good idea, I'm aware that there are potential problems.
A) You could free up crap which then doesn't clear and ends up in the HLAs, just making things worse.
B) Engine Flush is presumably full of Detergents or some sort. Surely if I stick this stuff in, it's still gonna be in the engine even after I've drained the oil and replaced it. Is this gonna cause a problem with breaking down the new engine oil and not providing sufficient protection.
Comments?
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I'm no technical expert, but I'd give it fresh oil, drive it on the hard side for a thousand miles, then replace the oil, and stick to a tight oil-change interval thenceforth.
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What does the owner's manual or service schedule say? When my car reaches that mileage it won't get an engine flush ~ it'll get a service as per the service schedule just as it does at any other mileage.
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L\'escargot.
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When I got my first 626 - V6 2.5 the HLA's were rattling on start up so I changed the oil every 1k miles for first 3k (medium priced oil) then every 3k after that (American Mazda site recommends every 3k) - worked wonders and engine became quiet - got job down to 20 min - a large cat litter tray is handy for sump and small one for oil filter which fortunately was on front of engine - buy a sump washer every time and my filters were same as Ford Probe V6. - I have just change oil on my Xedos which I also do at 3k intervals.
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Hydraulic Tappets, I think.
Number_Cruncher
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HLA is explained in the link given above: hydraulic lift adjusters.
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I'm no technical expert but I'd give it fresh oil drive it on the hard side for a thousand miles then replace the oil and stick to a tight oil-change interval thenceforth.
I second this view, I say never use engine flush if you can help it.
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I have used Wynns Oil Engine Flush with no ill effects. I use it once on aquiring a new secondhand car. After that just synthetic oil every 6,000 miles.
I think because you add it to the old oil, it is a bit more gentle than conventional oil flushes, and cleans OK but without blocking small oilways. Perhaps the lubicating qualities of the old oil carry the muck away safely without ramming the gunge into a block that constricts small oil pathways.
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Thankyou all for your comments.
Am tempted to run some flush through for 10 minutes or so before dumping the old oil and replacing - Although I'd prefer to replace with fresh oil every 1k for the 1st 3, to get rid of crap, given I have to drive a 200 mile round trip to a relative's house to have easy access to the bottom of the car...I'd probably end up not doing it!
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I would say dont use engine flush (of any sort) unless you have a specific problem to sort out or are dismantling the engine.
Nearly always causes more problems than it cures !
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Buy 5 litres of your chosen oil, two oil filters, and 5 litres of the cheapest oil you can find that meets the grade required for the engine. Drop the oil out, change the filter, and top up with the cheap stuff.
Take the car on a long hard run, drop the oil immediately, change the filter again and refill with the good stuff.
From then on, just stick to the schedules and use the best oil you can afford.
Cheers
DP
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I like that idea. I'm also dead against flushing oil, especially on an old engine with hydraulic tappets - it's just asking for trouble with blockages here. DP's proposal costs about the same or less than the use of flushing oil, unless your engine requires a particularly exotic oil.
659.
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OK sounds good. Think I'll try to get National to change the oil + filter run it in for a bit then change it properly myself jap fit and good oil!
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My experience of neglected cars with engines with dirty oil and oil deposits..(Fiesta, old Rovers etc) is
change oil and filter
change again after 2,000 miles
ditto after 3,000 miles
then evry 5,000 miles.
Seems to work: Mark3 Fiesta had gunge on top of cylinder head and in rocker box cover... after the above routine almost all gone: helped by longer (15 miles) journeys.
For flushing oil to work on a badly clogged engine you would have to run the engine for a long time (hours) and possibly damage the bearings...imo
madf
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