Another 6k has gone by and another oil change due on my 1.9TD Xsara. Last time had local garage do it for 20 quid, but think they used cheapy oil.
Is it worth spending 20 quid on the fully synthetic oil like Mobil 1 and so on? They promise improved fuel economy and quieter running.
Worth spending the extra or just going for Halfords cheapest diesel oil?
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If you're changing at 10,000m. use semi-synthetic-if you change at over 10,000m. use fully-synthetic-if less,then multigrade.
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I'm fed up with this Mobil 1 coming up. Mobil 1 is a 0W/30 and whilst it is a great oil in the right modern application it is not suited to all engines, oil pumps and hyrualic cam followers. Mobil ESP 10w/30 is the latest contibution to join the fray but in my opinion wasted on an older tech engine on a 6K oil and filter change. Pick up some Castol Magnatec Deisel and run with that. Regards Peter
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Sorry a type ESP 5W/30 Regards Peter
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Hi David, Try www.morrisoils.co.uk (5w 40)(f/s) £22:50
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Do you mean morrislubricants.co.uk?
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In answer to the thread's header, no. For the vehicle and the regimen concerned, semi-synth is ideal.
I can't agree with the use of Castrol Magnatec in any engine these days. It's an overpriced, overmarketed mineral oil and you can buy a good semi-synth which will meet ACEA B4 for the same, or less money. I use Fuchs oil to spec. B4, available locally at about £11 per 5l. On a national basis, GSF sell Total semi-synth for less money than Magnatec.
As always, check that the viscosity you use matches the engine maker's recommendation for the operating conditions you apply. Always read the book.
659.
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Castrol GTD Magnatec 10W-40 offers total engine protection. Like the other Castrol
diesel lubricants it disperses soot particles, preventing large soot deposits from forming
and damaging your engine.
However, every time you start your car it takes a while for your engine to get effective
protection from an ordinary oil, because the oil cannot protect properly until it
reaches a critical temperature - as a result independent tests show up to 75% of
engine wear occurs in the first ten minutes. In a diesel engine this is even more critical
as diesel engines take longer to warm up than petrol ones.
Castrol GTD Magnatec is different as it gets to work straight away by
virtue of a unique synthetic ester that clings to engine surfaces like a magnet - this
"Unique Molecular Attraction" provides up to 4 times more protection than a conventional
oil during the critical start and warm up period.
So we all have different opinions. This GTD is a semi Synth £12 for 5 litres and a free ltr top up bottle puts in the marker with the right viscosity.
Regards Peter
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A worthwhile read is on the " All you wanted to know about oil" by Ed Hackett. members.aol.com/c1j1miller/oil.html He makes the point : "Any of the ester based synthetics (AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Syntec), will give you the benefits that Castrol is making a big deal of in their advertising. The ability to cling to metal walls is due to the polar nature of the ester base stock, not something unique to Castrol's formulation."
Regards John
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659FBE
Am i reading this correctly.
You can get 5L fuchs oil for £11.
Ifso is it widely available because thats a megga price and i could do with some of that!!
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SCATS Countrystore, Godalming Surrey. Sold mainly to farmers (which is why I go there) together with other specialist Fuchs oils.
659.
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Whilst there is a 0w/30 Mobil 1, thats just one viscosity they do. See www.mobil.com/UK-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobi...p for the range. However, the point is to use whatever is adequate for the task: fully synth may be just a waste of cash, and oil, especially if changed at 6000 miles.
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I always think Castrol Magnatec is expensive for what is is. Halford's fully synthetic is half price at £15 for 5 litres at Xmas and July. Can't beat it. Top spec.
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Good price, what viscosity do they do and who really makes it. Regards Peter
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who really makes it.
Halfords "own brand" oil is made by Comma, a division of Exxon. (IIRC)
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Peter,
What are your reasons for not using a 0W oil?
Magnatec advertising is intersting as although esters have a number of useful properties it probably requires about a 20% ester base oil to use esters in this way. Castrol also have a unique ester available that is less polar and although all true synthetics use esters or GV, polar abilities are not advertised.
Zinc anti wear additives are pressure/temperature activated and are common to nearly all oils, so what is Magnatec claiming is so special.
In the US 5W20 oils are becomming recommended and one reason why they can produce good results is that they are thinner at start up
than 10W30, rather than claiming any special start up abilities.
What type of Synthetic is Halfords/Comma?
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Hi Mgbv8. Great car know and re-built several in my day. Do not get me wrong, I have raced and won many an event with Mobil 1 and had great perfomance but my Holby engine, dry sump and scavange pump system was designed for this grade of oil, a 1997 diesel engine is not. www.torquecars.co.uk/Tuning/engine-oil.php . Regards Peter
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I find this comment baffling: "Holby engine, dry sump and scavange pump system was designed for this grade of oil, a 1997 diesel engine is not"
Mobil 1 seems to be connected in your mind with racing, but the oils are used and intended for more workaday engines including those such as VW TDI's which were designed well before 1997. VW505.00 approval for 0w/40 Mobil1 as well as the turbo-diesel and truck diesel (Delvac) grades of oils, shows it use in these applications is perfectly OK. Whether you choose to use it depends on other factors, like price and mfrs specifications, but beearing in mind the higher outputs of diesel at mid-range revs and the turbo, a very good oil is required.
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Use the cheapest one that meets the manufacturers spec. Synethic may help with the turbo, but for such short changes may not be economic.
Personally I would always stick with the franchised garage for regular servicing, their costs are not usually that steep.
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Peter,
I am interested in your views why a 0W will cause a problem with oil pumps and Hyd lifters, also now on PTFE and I assume ZX1!
Minerals use viscosity improvers for a multigrade
www.eaa49.av.org/techart/str_oil.htm
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Engines are designed to perform with a specific viscosity of oil versus temperature. It control flow rates, pump efficiency, temperature exchange ( Metal to Oil )hydualic lifter depression under load and numerous other functions. Why would anyone want to take a proven design and change the viscosity of the oil to way outside the design criteria. Regards Peter
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Most important with the 1.9 td is to change the oil as regularly as possible as the indirect injection system heavily contaminates the oil with soot particles which are abrasive.
For long engine life it's better to change the oil every 5k miles and use a semi synthetic than at 10k and use a fully synthetic which aren't really suitable and are anyway too costly to change at regular intervals.
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12k miles a year:
* fuel cost about £1750
* average annual cost of tyres, pads, disks, MOT, VED, insurance £700?
* servicing cost £300?
* one change of fully synth oil £40 (1.45% of other costs)?
* two changes £80 (2.9%)?
* three changes £120 (4.36%)?
That's my perspective on cost, and money spent on fresh oil is money well spent.
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Synthetic ester based engine oils are the best at the moment, now the question is, Silkolene currently produce ester based oils in there Pro S range, however, Motul have produced a double ester based oil in there 300v range. Which is the better ?
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Peter,
Yhe same system has to operate at cold start up and perhaps more extreme hot oil temps, the viscosity varies and the system has to deal with this. I'm looking for a specific downside of using a 0W30 compared to 10W30.
Nick,
Silkolene is a diester, Motul Complex and Redline POE and high ZDDP and moly. Difficult to say which is best but as a quick comparison the HTHS (test can vary) should be as follows compared to M1
Redline
5w40 4.6
10W40 4.7
15W50 5.8
Motul 300V
5W40 4.51
15W50 5.33
Silkolene PRO S 5w-40 = 4.07
Silkolene PRO S 10w-50 = 5.11
Silkolene PRO R 15w-50 = 5.23
M1
0W40 3.6
15W50 5.11
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OK mgbv8 what do you pour into your engine. Do you have the original V8 and you've run it on 0W30 for 30 years or what. Try physicsweb.org/articles/world/15/2/7 if physics is your thing but Xsara TD don't like 0 anything. Regards Peter
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Peter
Interesting choice as Ian Taylor is keen on promoting thin oils (5W20).
MG= 20W50! from my era, but was discussing old oil recommendations with someone involved with the introduction of the original mini downunder, and I gather the recommendation for MGB in the early years was a 20W20. Perhaps we are going full circle!
However as Ian Taylor is a bit heavy going perhaps
63.240.161.99/motoroil/
By the way the Author is using 5W20 in a Maybach, Ferrari and Lambo
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To add my comments regarding MGB's in Australia. I would suggest that anyone who ran a 20w20 oil there got as far as the nearest corner before the oil pressure disappeared! I tried multigrade oil once and got 60 miles before the pressure was so low I got it changed. The pressure came back and stayed that way.
All locally assembled MGB's had oil coolers and were notorious for wearing cranks and bearings as the oil pressure took some time to come up from cold and most punters just started and drove off before getting oil pressure up. (new / reground crank required at 40,000 miles) I remember that I used BP Corse 30 in winter or Corse 50 in summer! (non multigrade) in my MGB when it was raced and changed the oil back to straight grade BP30 before it was used on the road again each time. Lots of work, but I never had oil pressure or wear problems.
By the way what are the comments on the use of Selenia racing 10w60 in 2.0 JTS Alfa Romeo's? The manufacturer only recommends it but it seems ridiculously expensive for road use in the UK. Perhaps in a mediterranean climate its different with much higher oil temperatures.
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