You're going to have to do a lot of work to get those in place. It'd be far easier to get a replacement led bulb. You would still have to put a resistor in parallel with your strip LEDs to get the resistance down to that of a bulb for your indicator relay to work properly.

Fairly resigned to a bit of fiddling.

IIRC the original bulb holders on the wing indicators have already disintegrated. One of them has an old scrap LED strip in it like the one linked to, (found on the University dump) though its rather dim and orange.

The other has a few incandescent Christmas tree lights in it, seasonal or what? Both of them behind bicycle reflector housings, the original fitting having been sun-rotted. IIRC these were both working, after their fashion, when I left Taiwan.

The main indicators still have original fittings and bulbs.

The problem is I've lost 1/3 circuits, so I'm proposing running lights in series off the surviving circuits. I don't THINK this will be possible with 12V lights since the voltage drop will be too great. MIGHT be possible with LED's

Edited by edlithgow on 30/12/2022 at 09:50

Fixing the lights seemed to go OK, though not quite finished.

4 out of 6 turn signals were out. 2 of them lacked a + supply (the wiring loom is pretty knackered) so I took power from neighboring lights by the crude expedient of trapping a thin wire in the plug.

One of them the bulb holder was corroded and no longer provided an earth, but there was a second earth wire to a tab on the bulb holder. I connected this tab to a wire wrapped round the bulb base, because that's the way the other one was, and it worked, but I dunno what the tab and second earth are really for, not having seen it before AFAIK. I doubt its meant to be a redundant system.

For the bike-reflector wing repeater, the bulb holder had disintegrated. I used a connector strip to arrange 4 small LED's (I think 3.3V 5ma) in series with a 200 ohm resistor, which worked on the bench but not on the car, presumably because the forward voltage wasn't achieved (though I suppose it might have been with the engine running). Removing one of the LED's got it working. When flashing, multimeter showed max of approx 2 mA with a 400 ohm resistor, approx 4 mA with a 200 ohm resistor, unalarming but probably less than the real max load.

LED substitution didn't seem to affect the flash rate

About knocking off time it stopped working. Battery voltage was only 11.86V, which is probably why. There's about a 3 Amp KOEO draw, and I have reason to suspect short(s) in the wiring loom, but that's another problem

Its currently a "hybrid" sort of lashup, with a mixture of the original incandescent bulbs, one 12V LED that I tried as a replacement to a badly silvered incandescent, because they didnt have any incandescents in the shop, and my home-made connector strip of LED's in one wing light. The other wing light, which is working so was left alone, has either a scrap section of 12V LED strip in it, or some old Christmas Tree incandescents, can't remember which.

Rather surprising its working at all, but I guess the flasher unit can't be very fussy. Hopefully it'll hold through inspection,

Edited by edlithgow on 02/02/2023 at 14:04

Current hypothesis/guess (after a cup of tea) is that an earth path on the RHS (perhaps that for the last (LED) light fitted) is shorted to the LHS live side. Disconnecting that light might then stop it doing it, as might giving it an alternative earth path.

So those are next moves in the floundering around

R sidelight lamp seemed to be shorting via its earth. Taking both + and earth from the lower front light via trapped wires seems to fix it, which is nice (though it creates a risk of another short within the connector plug, so it might be better to go for a new earth screw in the body nearby.)

I don't know what other issues might arise from this (or other) shorts. Could be the tip of the iceberg.

Edited by edlithgow on 03/02/2023 at 10:33

The hazard switch now works (didn't before I left). Activating this in the running light position gives a non flashing, but rather dim, running light on both sides.

That;s almost enough, but the inspection people may not agree.