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The age of the cars the OP drives, I wouldn't be surprised if it's got an autovac ;>)
Another item for the 20 old car features I miss thread?
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The age of the cars the OP drives, I wouldn't be surprised if it's got an autovac ;>)
Another item for the 20 old car features I miss thread?
Looked it up. These days seems to be a car wash thing
autovacinc.com/automotive-car-care/
Dunno what it was in yore days, but AFAIK I've never had one, whatever it was.
I've heard of vacuum operated wipers, which would be handy in context, but its a while till the rainy season so probably not an issue.
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The age of the cars the OP drives, I wouldn't be surprised if it's got an autovac ;>)
Another item for the 20 old car features I miss thread?
Looked it up. These days seems to be a car wash thing
Here you go: www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/autovac.htm
The notion of a 'self draining float' baffled me.
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The age of the cars the OP drives, I wouldn't be surprised if it's got an autovac ;>)
Another item for the 20 old car features I miss thread?
Looked it up. These days seems to be a car wash thing
Here you go: www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/autovac.htm
The notion of a 'self draining float' baffled me.
Alright, its a vacuum-lift fuel pump thingy. I was trying to think of an example of a "non-mechanical fuel pump" and...er...was coming up empty, but perhaps that qualifies. As I suppose would simple gravity feed.
I have implemented simple gravity feed temporarily as diagnostic elimination of the fuel pump from running problems, which it did.
tw.forumosa.com/t/fuel-on-the-roof/182822
No reason to do it now.
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Depends on whether it is injection, and whether it has an electric fuel pump - if so, then considerably less than if it's carb fed with a mechanical fuel pump!
This does not appear to make sense, though perhaps I'm missing something.
The carb is essentially an engine driven fuel atomising device and uses no electrical energy apart from a fuel cut-off solenoid.
The mechanical fuel pump is similarly engine driven.
Perhaps you meant an electric fuel pump?
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What’s driving the water pump ?
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What’s driving the water pump ?
Very good question
I improvised a short drive belt for it from short pieces of cordage (polypropylene, but nylon would perhaps be better). Havn't tried it yet.
It IS a concern since if it unravels it could cause damage, hence the multiple short lengths. If it works at all I'll have to watch it carefully in use.
I suppose the main electrical load will be the cooling fan. It might be possible to rig a ducted hair dryer/scooter style ducted centrifugal fan running off the crankshaft pulley, but too much trouble for this (hopefully temporary) situation.
Maybe a water spray for the radiator would help.
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What’s driving the water pump ?
The string drive worked beyond expectations. Very difficult to wiggle into place due to restricted access, so only about 5 strings on when I ran out of fortitude.
I thought it would probably just slip, melt, and break, but it drove the water pump pulley apparently OK at a fast idle (about 2000 rpm)
Stupidly a loose end that I missed flapped oily grit into my unprotected eyes (should have thought of that) stopping operations.
Tempting to use thicker cordage when I try again, but I am afraid of strong synthetic cordage near rotating machinery.
I suppose that is part of the appeal of the "traditional" pair-of-tights solution. Weak and stretchy but a big surface area for friction at the pulleys.
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As above, string drive seemed to be working OK, but I didn't really trust it, and decided to try and supplement it with the "traditional" pair-of-tights of myth (?) and legend.
Couldn't get that to work. The old pair of tights I scrounged seemed too bulky, so I bought what turned out to be two pairs of short nylon stockings (are these called "pop socks" in English?). Tied these end to end (sheet bend with the loose ends minimised with half hitches) but they kept coming off and getting shredded.
Has anyone actually done that emergency fanbelt replacement trick successfully (In which case I was doing it wrong) or is it a myth?
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From a quick look, the Internyet seems inconsistent on the tights-belt improvisation.
Surprise!
For example.
Pro
www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzjYghiW7KQ
Shown working with a serpentine belt, though I dunno for how long.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCgLEVBFDBA
Claimed to work
Con
www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PjijjBous0
Comes off
www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1990-12-02-9004...l
Article says not with serpentine belt
parksidemotors.ca/replace-a-belt-with-pantyhose-fa.../
Article says its a myth for serpentines and maybe even for V-belts
I can see why it'd be more likely to come of with a serpentine belt, but of course I have a V-belt, which I expected would work.
Oh, the disillusion!
Options?
Cable Ties
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oRH1PX_QNU
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I can see why it'd be more likely to come of with a serpentine belt, but of course I have a V-belt, which I expected would work.
Probably more likely to come off a V belt, got to admit I have never seen anyone try, let alone succeed using a pair of tights even though people have said they got them out of trouble year's ago, IMO I doubt they work and better to keep a spare belt in the boot than try that.
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Probably more likely to come off a V belt,
Why so? I'd have thought the V would tend to locate it better, and that seems to be the general word on the wires.
String works, but I'm unsure of its durability and nervous of trying anything much stronger.
Spare belt doesn't work in the case of a failed/removed alternator (this case and one of the vids above) because its too long.
Might try bicycle inner tube later.
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<< Might try bicycle inner tube later. >>
I would be rather worried about what the valve might do ....
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<< Might try bicycle inner tube later. >>
I would be rather worried about what the valve might do ....
OK, a section of bicycle inner tube, strictly speaking.
Not including the valve.
It'll thus have to have a knot in it, (unless I glue it) which might cause it to ride out of the groove.
They sell rubber straps made out of truck tyre inner tube as bungees to secure loads on scooters, etc, which might also be a possibility, but its perhaps a bit thick.
Edited by edlithgow on 17/04/2022 at 13:50
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They sell rubber straps made out of truck tyre inner tube as bungees to secure loads on scooters, etc, which might also be a possibility, but its perhaps a bit thick.
Not as substantial as a belt, but unbelievably tough. Ever tried cutting one off a boat propeller?
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They sell rubber straps made out of truck tyre inner tube as bungees to secure loads on scooters, etc, which might also be a possibility, but its perhaps a bit thick.
Not as substantial as a belt, but unbelievably tough. Ever tried cutting one off a boat propeller?
Well, that'd be underwater, which must be inconvenient. Typhoon season is coming though, so I cant rule it out.
I have a schnorkel somewhere...
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Why so? I'd have thought the V would tend to locate it better, and that seems to be the general word on the wires.
Would need twisting to make a thin rope to stay in a V and have doubts it would stay?, but if others have said it works fair enough I have no idea and would use an emergency fan belt which you cut to length
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I have no idea and would use an emergency fan belt which you cut to length
Not seen that. Does one knot it?
Ill do a search later.,
Probably not available here but might be shippable/
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I have no idea and would use an emergency fan belt which you cut to length
Not seen that. Does one knot it?
Ill do a search later.,
Probably not available here but might be shippable/
Had one years ago, tubular rubber about 9mm O/D 5mm I/D, with a metal double-ended plug which you used to join the cut-to-length ends.
Possibly laboratory rubber tubing and a suitable piece of metal, a bolt with the head sawn off?
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<< Had one years ago, tubular rubber about 9mm O/D 5mm I/D, with a metal double-ended plug which you used to join the cut-to-length ends. Possibly laboratory rubber tubing and a suitable piece of metal, a bolt with the head sawn off? >>
Interesting idea, but what does the bolt do when going round a pulley ?
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<< Had one years ago, tubular rubber about 9mm O/D 5mm I/D, with a metal double-ended plug which you used to join the cut-to-length ends. Possibly laboratory rubber tubing and a suitable piece of metal, a bolt with the head sawn off? >>
Interesting idea, but what does the bolt do when going round a pulley ?
I never actually had to use the thing, it was sold as an emergency fanbelt, this was in the days when most engines peaked at 4750 rpm and seldom needed to run near that speed. The joining piece was quite short, about 30 mm, if i remember correctly.
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<< Had one years ago, tubular rubber about 9mm O/D 5mm I/D, with a metal double-ended plug which you used to join the cut-to-length ends. Possibly laboratory rubber tubing and a suitable piece of metal, a bolt with the head sawn off? >>
Interesting idea, but what does the bolt do when going round a pulley ?
I never actually had to use the thing, it was sold as an emergency fanbelt, this was in the days when most engines peaked at 4750 rpm and seldom needed to run near that speed. The joining piece was quite short, about 30 mm, if i remember correctly.
Yes, it wasn`t very long but then it was an emergency tube with the steel tube to go inside the rubber tube to join ends, as I recall the steel tube wore through the rubber within a couple of hours and back to square one...but it should have got you to a garage or car shop for a new belt, ie it did the job!
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emergency fan belt
You only need to google it to find different types.
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I have no idea and would use an emergency fan belt which you cut to length
Not seen that. Does one knot it?
Ill do a search later.,
Probably not available here but might be shippable/
Had one years ago, tubular rubber about 9mm O/D 5mm I/D, with a metal double-ended plug which you used to join the cut-to-length ends.
Possibly laboratory rubber tubing and a suitable piece of metal, a bolt with the head sawn off?
I'm thinking rubber tubing with cord or cable ties inside it,
Unfortunately the rubber wont be under tension itself, but it might protect the tensioner from wear and maybe limit its damage potential a bit if it busts.
(My engine mounts, which were failing in tension, have been held together with cable ties for 6 or 7 years now, with no sign of failure)
If I was looking to buy something the multi-link belts built up from link-and-tab pieces seem to be sold as permanent replacements.
www.amazon.com/vdp/02c88cf0d26f4354a8011f5b5451774...0
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I have no idea and would use an emergency fan belt which you cut to length
Not seen that. Does one knot it?
Ill do a search later.,
Probably not available here but might be shippable/
Had one years ago, tubular rubber about 9mm O/D 5mm I/D, with a metal double-ended plug which you used to join the cut-to-length ends.
Possibly laboratory rubber tubing and a suitable piece of metal, a bolt with the head sawn off?
I'm thinking rubber tubing with cord or cable ties inside it,
Unfortunately the rubber wont be under tension itself, but it might protect the tensioner from wear and maybe limit its damage potential a bit if it busts.
(My engine mounts, which were failing in tension, have been held together with cable ties for 6 or 7 years now, with no sign of failure)
If I was looking to buy something the multi-link belts built up from link-and-tab pieces seem to be sold as permanent replacements.
www.amazon.com/vdp/02c88cf0d26f4354a8011f5b5451774...0
I had forgotten about those machine belts, they were also used on machines like lathes in machine workshops where if a belt link broke you replaced the links instead of the whole belt.
they were used between the electric motor and the lathe gearbox and often broke a link because of the amount of hours use they had, but they were good and lasted years before a link needed replacement, but there was an art to get the tension right due to having to stretch the links further than they wanted to go... good belts though
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I had forgotten about those machine belts, they were also used on machines like lathes in machine workshops where if a belt link broke you replaced the links instead of the whole belt.
Must admit I'm a bit surprised that works well. I'd have thought when a link fails the rest of them would be about due, but I suppose that depends on the details of the failure mode and the range of variation. A statistics project.
Obvious inventory advantages, and there must be cases where it is much easier to refit a splittable belt, but I think they may only work with V-belts, which are probably fairly rare on modern cars.
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but I think they may only work with V-belts,
They work on any pulley without a problem as they are flexible and not all machines have the same pulleys from motor to gearbox or drive, even on flat pulleys they stay where they are put, there are different widths of belt too which helps in locating the belt in/on the pulley
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The bike inner tube section was too wide to locate easily and after a bit of fiddling I gave up on it.
Next I tried a piece of (Vinyl?) tubing, maybe 0.5 cms OD, from a scrap dialysis set, which I THINK I had used with petrol so it was a bit browned off and stiffened.
Ran a piece of braided nylon through it, put a loop in each end, and used a small cable-tie to pull the ends together. (I now think the cable tie was a mistake, and an all-cordage solution would likely have a longer lifespan )
Worked, based on a minute or two of fast idle, with revving to 4K rpm briefly, BUT the 5 drive-strings I put on earlier didn't co-exist very long, suggesting a sharp edge somewhere, perhaps in the cable-tie
Edited by edlithgow on 24/04/2022 at 08:27
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Survived a short run, but seems to have loosened somewhat, and was warm to the touch.
It wasn't very tight to start with, Access is awkward.
Seems to have potential though. Might try a mk2 later. Hopefully I can get it to fit better.
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Makes sense to me, but it's a bit double negative territory...
You will get more miles if the fuel pump is mechanical feeding a carb, as minimal electric use. If it's injection with an electric fuel pump, then you need to drive both off the battery, and it won't last nearly as long (mostly the fuel pump).
My diesel Xantia HDi with an electric fuel pump made it about 30 miles with no alternator, but then everything started to go off every time I braked. And it was freezing as the interior fan only ran when the alternator was charging....
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Makes sense to me, but it's a bit double negative territory...
You will get more miles if the fuel pump is mechanical feeding a carb, as minimal electric use. If it's injection with an electric fuel pump, then you need to drive both off the battery, and it won't last nearly as long (mostly the fuel pump).
My diesel Xantia HDi with an electric fuel pump made it about 30 miles with no alternator, but then everything started to go off every time I braked. And it was freezing as the interior fan only ran when the alternator was charging....
Makes sense to me too on re-reading. I'd read it the wrong way around. Apologies to the OP
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<< This does not appear to make sense, though perhaps I'm missing something. >>
Makes sense to me - if an electric pump (and other things) are draining the battery, the car's range will be less than if they aren't. ??
But why is the alternator screeching ? Can any part of it be lubricated, or is the noise from a tensioner pulley ?
Edited by Andrew-T on 06/04/2022 at 17:21
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. ??
But why is the alternator screeching ? Can any part of it be lubricated, or is the noise from a tensioner pulley ?
There's no tensioner pulley.
I took the alternator off a couple of weeks ago, removed the back cover, and used spray grease on it, to no apparent effect.
Next move will be more extensive dismantling to get at the bearings better, but I broke the last one (which was a different design) when I tried using a puller on it, so I'll have to be cautious.
Final most desperate move would be to attempt to replace the bearings. Its possible the bearings on the old one are the same, though I'm doubtful of getting them off intact.
Edited by edlithgow on 07/04/2022 at 03:47
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Ed, while I do admire your never say die attitude ( bit like the car actually) and your ability to make do and mend, I wonder why you don’t bite the bullet and buy something with more life left in it?
If you bought a newer, better car, with the free time available you could probably sort nuclear fusion or world hunger:)
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If you bought a newer, better car, with the free time available you could probably sort nuclear fusion or world hunger:)
Or simply a newer, better alternator ? :-)
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If you bought a newer, better car, with the free time available you could probably sort nuclear fusion or world hunger:)
Or simply a newer, better alternator ? :-)
This IS the newer, better alternator. (Well better anyway. Since its a used OEM its probably older)
It was, admittedly, apparently broken when I bought it, but its still better, since it was possible to take it apart without (so far) breaking it further, which wasn't true of the last one.
This is a Denso. I think the last one was Chinese.
Got the rectifier off. Looks like the previous spray greasing only soaked the brushes which will need a clean.
Edited by edlithgow on 09/04/2022 at 02:30
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Ed, while I do admire your never say die attitude ( bit like the car actually) and your ability to make do and mend, I wonder why you don’t bite the bullet and buy something with more life left in it?
If you bought a newer, better car, with the free time available you could probably sort nuclear fusion or world hunger:)
Usual reasons. Cheapskatism, obstinacy, sentiment.
Plus... new cars really suck. Didn't you hear?
An older, better car would be acceptable, but very hard to find here and likely to be very expensive anywhere else.
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If you bought a newer, better car, with the free time available you could probably sort nuclear fusion or world hunger:)
They sorted nuclear fusion (which also has the potential to solve world hunger PDQ) in 1952 at Enewatak Atoll,
So its been done.
Clever trick, but would you want it on your tomb stone?
Bodging this banger got me a very cheap and effective anti-corrosion treatment for steel.
Maybe I can have a steel tomb plate as a demo.
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Presumably you now know the range you can get from the battery on its own, be interesting to know how its held up under several discharging and recharge cycles? assuming its been used in that time.?
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Only a short trip so far. I don't intend to run it out of juice entirely if I can help it.
Unfortunately I had to leave it for a couple of days partially discharged (ran out of time with a train to catch) which probably won't do it much good.
We got Covid on campus last week, so we are in Atishoo, Atishoo We All Lock Down mode. Since they changed the online teaching system from Meet to Teams without any announcement or testing prior to this "emergency", (p***ups in breweries NOT) I'm not going to have much fiddling time for a while.
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Since the art department (which has a vice) has been closed, due to some virus or other, I havn't been able to get the alternator pulley off to get at the front bearing. The rear one looked ok. I put some grease on it and tried to work it in but its a sealed unit so doubt this did anything
Since the six-monthly inspection was due I put it back together and screeched to the inspection centre, stopping just before it to slacken it off.
It was very hot. While I dunno how hot alternators get in normal operation, I doubt this was normal and tends to support the bearing failure hypothesis.
Seemed to hit the "sweet spot", in that it stopped screeching during the inspection (and for the trip home) and the water pump pulley was still going around, but I forgot to check if it was still charging.
Could be I've been overtightening the belt, but, however caused, I'm pretty sure the bearing is damaged.
Edited by edlithgow on 14/05/2022 at 04:08
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There is a Daihatsu Sirion in a nearby scrappy which LOOKS (from web pictures) to have a very similar DENSO alternator, (no visible serial numbers on mine)
Is this likely to have "traditional" voltage control?
If its ECU controlled it won't be any use to me.
In any case it'll likely have a pulley for a ribbed belt so even if its a straight swap I'd still need to be able to remove the pulley.
Since I no longer have ready access to a vice I was thinking of getting an electric impact driver for pulley removal, preferably 12V, as discussed here:-
tw.forumosa.com/t/made-my-grand-dink-250-to-a-300/...5
There appear to be 2 model series, the more expensive one doing some preset torque levels.
www.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21305080186330
about a 1000NT, no torque
www.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21007146407013
about 1500NT with some torque presets, apparently. Looks like it might be 3, 5 and 250 ft-lbs. a fairly limited range, maybe not worth having.
That model is unlikely to be available in the UK, but perhaps there are better alternatives.
Any recommendations for this kind of thing?
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From a bit of Internyeting seems alternator pulleys are about 70 ft-lbs, so those presets (IF I'm interpreting them correctly) aren't very useful for that, but perhaps it isn't critical and those values are for things that typically are?
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