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Probably do about 25k per year, not sure what an italian tune is?
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An "Italian tune(-up)" consist of some brisk starts from stationary, once the engine is fully up to temperature, in which you take the revs up to the red line on the rev counter a few times.
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Probably do about 25k per year, not sure what an italian tune is?
Rigoletto is quite a long one if you do a lot of miles
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I'd suggest a couple of consecutive fills with 'super' diesel a year won't do any harm, followed by an 'Italian tune'.
My 2008 Pug 1.6 diesel is running as well as ever, but only done 83K. Usually it gets regular fuel, but every fifth fill or so I feed it some V-power, which very soon makes it feel a bit smoother and quieter.
Oil and filter changes every 7-8K miles, not the suggested 12K . No other special treatment, certainly no Italian tune-ups !
Edited by Andrew-T on 18/11/2021 at 23:09
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Would that be oil and oil filter change only or fuel filter too?
I've read lots on this engine and appears to be very reliable as long as it's serviced on time etc, mine is from 2012, i assume the manufacturers must have made improvements compared to earlier engines?
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Assuming this is the PSA engine, I've been told the correct grade of oil is also critical for reliability. So if having it serviced, make sure they are not using 'generic' oil bought in bulk.
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We had one of these engines in a Focus for over 10 years. Always serviced with the correct spec oil which is not expensive and is easy to obtain. We did not have a single issue, in truth the only unexpected service item required was a serpentine belt (AKA fan belt) since the original was cracking. Cost £35 fitted at the local Ford dealer.
But since the correct oil is essential for these engines (incorrect will cause sludge which blocks the turbo feed pipe I believe) and you have no idea what had been put in the past 9 years I would leave this car well alone.
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My guess is you will have the 115ps 8v engine which is heavily revised compared to earlier examples.
Just service it properly on time with the right oil and it should be fine They can be fussy about fuel filters so recommend a change about every 30k and use the proper Bosch one.
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But since .... you have no idea what had been put in the past 9 years I would leave this car well alone.
Have we been told this ? I can't see it anywhere ? A reason can nearly always be found for NOT buying any car.
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But since .... you have no idea what had been put in the past 9 years I would leave this car well alone.
Have we been told this ? I can't see it anywhere ? A reason can nearly always be found for NOT buying any car.
The car is 9 years old and if the OP is lucky it might have fully tamped service book (which are easily forged of course).
The chances of the OP having copies of every service invoice showing exactly what oil has been used is pretty low but if the OP has that info perhaps he could confirm this and also check the oil used is exactly as per Mazda's spec.
Buying a 9 year old car is a bit of a lottery at best but buying a 9 year old diesel that uses an engine that is known to have issues when not maintained correctly is a huge risk if the OP does not have a full history.
That is why I said "leave it well alone". Probably a bit late now since the OP has already bought the car. Hope they are feeling lucky.
For the record I would not buy a 3 year old car that had no info or had been serviced with incorrect fluids. We bought our Fabia at just short of 2 years and it had only had one service at the Skoda dealer with an invoice showing the exact oil had been used for "fixed" servicing. I was happy with that and 2 services later the dealer has used that same oil.
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<< I would not buy a 3 year old car that had no info or had been serviced with incorrect fluids. That is why I said "leave it well alone". >>
Neither would I (probably). I was only querying the basis for your assumptions.
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Would that be oil and oil filter change only or fuel filter too? I've read lots on this engine and appears to be very reliable as long as it's serviced on time etc, mine is from 2012, i assume the manufacturers must have made improvements compared to earlier engines?
Nothing special about fuel filter change - every 36K, so the present one should do another 20K anyway .... My car is just before this model got a DPF so at least I don't have problems there.
I've always used 10-40 oil (one grade recommended by Pug), which may have cost 1mpg or so, but seems to do the engine no harm.
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I’ve not looked closely at the service book yet but I believe the car had full service history from
a Mazda dealer. One previous owner. It’s a 2012 1.6d sport Mazda 2, not sure whether that’s a 16v or
8v engine?
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I’ve not looked closely at the service book yet but I believe the car had full service history from a Mazda dealer. One previous owner. It’s a 2012 1.6d sport Mazda 2, not sure whether that’s a 16v or 8v engine?
Now that is certainly something you should have done (if you were able to) before buying.
One owner - good. Can't help you with the no. of valves, but there will certainly be a DPF.
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I’ve not looked closely at the service book yet but I believe the car had full service history from a Mazda dealer. One previous owner. It’s a 2012 1.6d sport Mazda 2, not sure whether that’s a 16v or 8v engine?
Now that is certainly something you should have done (if you were able to) before buying.
One owner - good. Can't help you with the no. of valves, but there will certainly be a DPF.
I agree that it only having one owner is a BIG plus - it means they've owned the car for a good amount of time, meaning if it was going wrong on the DPF side a lot, then they surely would've parted company with it by now. Not sure about whether it's a 8v or 16v, but its the same engine as in Fords and many PSAs. My neighbour has one in their Citroen.
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I'd suggest a couple of consecutive fills with 'super' diesel a year won't do any harm, followed by an 'Italian tune'.
My 2008 Pug 1.6 diesel is running as well as ever, but only done 83K. Usually it gets regular fuel, but every fifth fill or so I feed it some V-power, which very soon makes it feel a bit smoother and quieter.
Oil and filter changes every 7-8K miles, not the suggested 12K . No other special treatment, certainly no Italian tune-ups !
Overall annual mileage is less of an issue than the mileage per trip from a cold start. Short trips mean the car doesn't get warmed up and the DPF is likely to get clogged up more quickly that normal, plus no time for passive PDF regen, and if the owner (including previous ones) did the same and switch the engine off during an active regen (at the end of their journey, not realising what the engine is undertaking), then that will inevitably cause the DPF to fail and possibly oil dilution issues as well.
The OP may well do the type of driving that is sympathetic to keeping the DPF clean, but its likely they have no idea whwther previous owners did - it could even be that the last owner sold the car because of such issues.
It possibly previously doing a high mileage(TBC) may give some benefit, but it's no guarantee, especially if there's been more than one previous owner, and especially if the last one didn't own it for a long time - it could be an indication they knew it had problems and passed it on asap.
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So what should be done at the end of a journey? Leave the engine to run a bit?
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So what should be done at the end of a journey? Leave the engine to run a bit?
Don't set off immediately on start up, wait for 10 seconds or so, and when you set off, don't drive hard till it is properly warmed up.
At the end of a journey, if you have been driving hard, slow it down before you get home to let things cool gradually. I wouldn't bother letting it run for a bit after parking unless you have been driving hard up to that point.
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So what should be done at the end of a journey? Leave the engine to run a bit?
Don't set off immediately on start up, wait for 10 seconds or so, and when you set off, don't drive hard till it is properly warmed up.
At the end of a journey, if you have been driving hard, slow it down before you get home to let things cool gradually. I wouldn't bother letting it run for a bit after parking unless you have been driving hard up to that point.
That last bit is more for people with turbocharged engines in general to enable it to cool down after reasonable use, to stop the oil from degrading.
For the diesel's DPF, when pulling up to (the final) stop (i.e. when you'd normall switch the engine off), HJ and others have said to keep the car running, open the driver's door, and lean down to the underside of the car to feel/smell if there's significant heat/burning smell from underneath, that would indicate that the DPF is mid-active regen (using the fuel to ignite and burn off the particles in the DPF filter).
Normally the engine revs would rise a bit when this activates anyway, but if the OP isn't aware, the above is a decent method. Keep the engine on (or keep driving) until the revs drop to their normal for the use and the heat/smell under the car goes away. Then the engine can be safely switched off.
A shame that no car manufacturer (unlike with HGVs) could be bothered to install a simple 'Active DPF regen in progress' warning system (or even that plus a warning of X miles/minutes to the next active regen and a manual start active regen/time to finish system). I have a similar warning system on my electric shaver to say it's time to clean it and when the clean is finished. I'd suspect a DPF cleaning system would cost, what, £100 or so to install.
You think how many peed off owners would not have deserted makes of car because of that? Mazda themselves have (sadly) learned the hard way.
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So what should be done at the end of a journey? Leave the engine to run a bit?
At the end of a journey, if you have been driving hard, slow it down before you get home to let things cool gradually. I wouldn't bother letting it run for a bit after parking unless you have been driving hard up to that point.
I'm no boy racer, but having owned four Pug turbo-diesels over the last 24 years I have yet to suffer any turbo problems. I think those are due to extended oil changes rather than revving the engine hard. I have always adopted HJ's early advice to ignore the recommended oil-change intervals - which were devised mainly for the convenience of hire-car businesses - and reduce them by about a third. I also use 10-40 oil rather than thinner stuff, which should be better for a hot turbo ?
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So what should be done at the end of a journey? Leave the engine to run a bit?
At the end of a journey, if you have been driving hard, slow it down before you get home to let things cool gradually. I wouldn't bother letting it run for a bit after parking unless you have been driving hard up to that point.
Totally agree. Normal driving even on motorways will not get the car too hot. Letting the car idle with no air flowing over it might even allow it to heat up, that is normally when the fan comes on.
I'm no boy racer, but having owned four Pug turbo-diesels over the last 24 years I have yet to suffer any turbo problems.
Had 3 turbo diesels and now 2 turbo petrols over the past 27 years and not had a turbo issue.
I also use 10-40 oil rather than thinner stuff, which should be better for a hot turbo ?
Would never do that. Manufacturers know a thing or 2 about oils for their engines and will have carried out many 1000's (if not millions) of miles of testing before recommending which is most suitable for the climate they are being sold in. Whilst a thicker oil may be better in theory for a hot turbo its a 100% fact that most engine wear takes place after a cold start and that is when the thinner oil circulates faster to reduce wear.
A modern thin oil will protect an engine way better than a thick oil from the 70's or 80's.
My only issue with modern oils is the confusing number of specs on the market for each viscosity grade. Back in the day you bought a 20w50 of your preferred brand. Last time I bought some 5w30 for our Focus I think there were 5 on the shelf. Which one to get for a Ford was clear enough but its a minefield getting a top up bottle for a VAG product since there are many different specs.
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<< Would never do that. Manufacturers know a thing or 2 about oils for their engines and will have carried out many 1000's (if not millions) of miles of testing before recommending which is most suitable for the climate they are being sold in. >>
That may be why 10-40 semi-syn is one of the grades recommended in the car's handbook. It's also the one it has had all its life. I rest my case .... :-)
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<< Would never do that. Manufacturers know a thing or 2 about oils for their engines and will have carried out many 1000's (if not millions) of miles of testing before recommending which is most suitable for the climate they are being sold in. >>
That may be why 10-40 semi-syn is one of the grades recommended in the car's handbook. It's also the one it has had all its life. I rest my case .... :-)
Just looked at various websites and it seems that ALL Peugeots diesels from the mid 90's require 5w30 oil but earlier cars require 10w40. The change date seems to coincide with the introduction of Euro 4 and the more widespread use of DPF's which as we all know are far more picky with getting the correct oil.
Our 2008 1.6 TDCi Focus always had 5w30 but the 2002 1.8TDDI before it also used this exact same oil (its been standard on most Fords since the early 90's).
The OP's Mazda will be an engine fitted with a DPF and having checked in the Web Mazda specify 5w30 which meets the Mazda spec.
I have no idea how old your car is but it seems likely that its much older than the OP's 2012 if that is in your handbook thus your advice is not only misleading but could cause long term damage.
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<< Would never do that. Manufacturers know a thing or 2 about oils for their engines and will have carried out many 1000's (if not millions) of miles of testing before recommending which is most suitable for the climate they are being sold in. >>
That may be why 10-40 semi-syn is one of the grades recommended in the car's handbook. It's also the one it has had all its life. I rest my case .... :-)
Just looked at various websites and it seems that ALL Peugeots diesels from the mid 90's require 5w30 oil but earlier cars require 10w40. The change date seems to coincide with the introduction of Euro 4 and the more widespread use of DPF's which as we all know are far more picky with getting the correct oil.
Our 2008 1.6 TDCi Focus always had 5w30 but the 2002 1.8TDDI before it also used this exact same oil (its been standard on most Fords since the early 90's).
The OP's Mazda will be an engine fitted with a DPF and having checked in the Web Mazda specify 5w30 which meets the Mazda spec.
I have no idea how old your car is but it seems likely that its much older than the OP's 2012 if that is in your handbook thus your advice is not only misleading but could cause long term damage.
The viscosity requirement, eg 10W-40 or 5W-30, is independent of any specifications related to Euro level or DPFs, these are covered by the ACEA specification, eg C2 or C3.
It's the constant pressure to reduce CO2 by improving fuel consumption that has led manufacturers to build engines with tighter tolerance and require "thinner" oil - although of course this may coincide with a change of Euro level and fitment of DPF.
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<< I have no idea how old your car is but it seems likely that its much older than the OP's 2012 if that is in your handbook thus your advice is not only misleading but could cause long term damage. >>
You surprise me - I thought the regulars here knew all about my 207 by now :-) . Built January 2008, on the road in April. DPFs were fitted to the 110 model then, but not the 90 (which mine is). So to that extent your objections are correct, but I wasn't advising the OP to use 10/40, only pointing out that doing so was not necessarily disastrous. Frequency of oil changes is more significant IMHO.
Edited by Andrew-T on 21/11/2021 at 16:08
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<< Would never do that. Manufacturers know a thing or 2 about oils for their engines and will have carried out many 1000's (if not millions) of miles of testing before recommending which is most suitable for the climate they are being sold in. >>
That may be why 10-40 semi-syn is one of the grades recommended in the car's handbook. It's also the one it has had all its life. I rest my case .... :-)
Best to always go with what the manufacturer says your should use, noting that my Mazda handbook also gives oil grades for the car when used (for extended periods/permanently) in other areas of the world that may require a different grade, to account for the different ambient temperature range.
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As a follow up to this, the car i bought's turbo died whilst i was on my way to collect the car so the dealer took it off sale.
I'm now looking at a different Mazda 2 but also a VW Polo 1.2tdi of a similar age although this one is £1500 more expensive. What are people's thoughts on the 1.2tdi engine? Would i be better off going for that rather than the Mazda?
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What are people's thoughts on the 1.2tdi engine? Would i be better off going for that rather than the Mazda?
If you are buying a 9 year old car you would be better off going for a petrol, end of story. There will be a large choice of 1.2 Fiesta's out there, our neighbours grand daughter has just bought a 64 plate cracker. Low miles, one owner, looks like a 3 year old car should look. Probably cost less than the Polo you are considering.
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Earlier on on the thread the OP says he will be doing 25k per year. If this is the case, diesel should certainly be considered.
For the OP, if I was looking for a diesel supermini sized car in which to spend a lot of time on the road, I'd consider the Vauxhall Corsa with the 1.7 turbo diesel (not the 1.2/1.3). The engine is a reliable Isuzu lump as opposed to the Fiat engines used in most other Vauxhall diesels. As well as being reliable, it has plenty of muscle for a car the size of a Corsa packing 128bhp. Not that many around, but worth seeking out. Try and avoid something in a sporty SRI trim (which will probably have a harsher ride and more noise thanks to the wider tyres), go for an SE if you can. Not sure where in the country you are, but here are a couple of nice looking (5 door) examples on Autotrader,
202111129497326
202111129501627
Another thing I'd consider is going up to a Focus/Astra sized car for the extra comfort and refinement (at least in theory!). If you are spending that much time on the road, seat comfort, ride comfort, and refinement should be as high a priority as your budget allows. £4-5k could get you into an Astra as young as 2014 (up to 70k miles) with that same 1.7 diesel (though it may be in 110 bhp form, not offered in the Corsa). A diesel Focus would almost certainly have that same 1.6 used in the Mazda 2, so tread carefully!.
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I will be doing a lot of miles so the Fiesta would be out of the question.
Will check out the corsa and astra cars, any thought on the VW Polo tdi? You're clearly not a fan of the mazda 1.6 then....
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The Vw polo 1.2 tdi is a 3 cylinder engine . Not the most exciting car to drive . As others have said, a 10 year old car would be better off with a petrol motor. Your fuel costs may be slightly higher , but maintenance costs are lower.
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I will be doing a lot of miles so the Fiesta would be out of the question.
If a Mazda 2 can be used, there is no reason a Fiesta couldn't. In fact a Fiesta could well have a better ride and be more refined. Plus, the Fiesta is also available that same 1.6 diesel as the Mazda 2. That kind of mileage will magnify the economy difference of diesel over petrol, but at the end of the day it is still a balancing act of the lower mpg of the petrol over the higher service and repair costs of a diesel. So I wouldn't rule out a 1.25, it is a very reliable engine, and while not as efficient as the 1.6 diesel, is definitely not thirsty.
any thought on the VW Polo tdi?
Don't know much about the 1.2 TDI Polo as I've never had any reason to look into them. SLO used to have one though, can't remember for sure, but I think he found it fine. If you found a nice older one with the legendary 1.9 TDI, well that might be worth a look!. But for me, given the choice between the 1.2TDI Polo, 1.6D Mazda 2 or the Corsa 1.7 CDTI, I'd take the Corsa.
You're clearly not a fan of the mazda 1.6 then....
I looked into that PSA 1.6 engine when I have been looking at vans in the past. And while its nickname (diesel of doom) is maybe a little unfair, it does seem that the engine can suffer more than others through a more lax servicing regime (including the exact grade of oil). A service history will of course tell you when the car has been serviced (assuming it hasn't been falsified) but will it tell you what oil was used?. I have come across plenty of anecdotal evidence to say it is actually a very good engine provided it has been looked after properly.
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As a follow up to this, the car i bought's turbo died whilst i was on my way to collect the car so the dealer took it off sale.
I'm now looking at a different Mazda 2 but also a VW Polo 1.2tdi of a similar age although this one is £1500 more expensive. What are people's thoughts on the 1.2tdi engine? Would i be better off going for that rather than the Mazda?
A lucky near miss for you. These engines are notorious for lunching turbos and often the blades disintegrate and are ingested by the engine ruining the lot. It’s just a reminder of how costly a cheap older diesel can be.
Despite the mileage I’d still go for petrol as you don’t have the budget to lift yourself up onto a diesel that’ll be reliable long term. The Polo 1.2 TDi I ran for years was only three years old when we bought it, we ran it to 85,000 miles and 8yrs old but it was getting tired and DPF issues were brewing. It was constantly trying to regen and rust was well into one of the sills. I certainly wouldn’t pay the prices being asked for these now, they’re not as robust as the brand image suggests nor was it anything like as economical as it should’ve been, we averaged 55mpg which is really no better than a typical petrol supermini of similar size if driven in similar fashion.
A 1.25 Fiesta, Mazda 2 1.3/1.5 or Toyota Yaris 1.33 would all make robust and perfectly capable high mileage companions and all are fit for 150,000 miles or more with regular servicing. There’s far less to go wrong than with a diesel and fuel economy is really little different. Factor in that you’ll almost certainly have a major engine repair at some point with a modern diesel and it’s more cost effective to go petrol unless you are willing to spend much more money.
Edited by SLO76 on 28/11/2021 at 23:22
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It's a bit confusing as you say i'd almost certainly have a major engine repair? Yet others say diesels engines are far more longer lasting providing they are serviced on time etc
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It's a bit confusing as you say i'd almost certainly have a major engine repair? Yet others say diesels engines are far more longer lasting providing they are serviced on time etc
They used to be but more modern examples with complex fuelling and emission control systems are nowhere near as robust as older generation diesels. Petrol cars have also become more powerful and more economical also. To me cheap diesels are simply not economically viable, they’re not worth the risk.
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It's a bit confusing as you say i'd almost certainly have a major engine repair? Yet others say diesels engines are far more longer lasting providing they are serviced on time etc
They used to be but more modern examples with complex fuelling and emission control systems are nowhere near as robust as older generation diesels. Petrol cars have also become more powerful and more economical also. To me cheap diesels are simply not economically viable, they’re not worth the risk.
I suppose that even if someone could find a reliable one, i.e. a pre-DPF car, then they wouldn't be new enough to benefit from the lower VED and they likely would be either banned or incur big charges to enter LEZs which are being introduced in more and more bigger cities.
Some of those early 2000s 1L petrols like the Micra and especially the Yaris gave really good mpg (my Micra managed 52-53 average over my ownership, more than the official), with the latter being very hardy and long-lasting if well-cared for, which they often were over diesel equivalents, perhaps because of the type of person who owned them.
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