<< Could put it out of true, i.e. tilt the disk/increase the run out, >>
If that happened, braking would be a jarring experience ......
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<< Could put it out of true, i.e. tilt the disk/increase the run out, >>
If that happened, braking would be a jarring experience ......
You'd think so.
OTOH one of mine has a noticeable wobble yet it seems to brake OK.
I suspect I have a failing bearing. Maybe the clamping action of braking firms it up.
Edited by edlithgow on 24/04/2021 at 16:41
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I suspect I have a failing bearing. Maybe the clamping action of braking firms it up.
Its being centred instead of being free to wobble.
I wonder if OP used the chassis no to get the new disc?.
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If its the back of the disc rubbing on the bracket then rust on the hub is not the problem is it? Removing any rust would make it rub MORE.
Could put it out of true, i.e. tilt the disk/increase the run out, so one point in the circumference is further out, and the opposing point is further in. You seem to be assuming the rust will be uniformly distributed.
Rust on the disc or caliper could also be contributing factors
Or its nothing to do with rust, of course. Many things aren't.
I wonder if the caliper had spacers between caliper and hub which have not been put back on ? Just a thought
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A Mk4 Golf is going to be an old car now. During its life its almost certainly had a number of components replaced and if any have been off "similar" Golfs and not from a 130TDi of the correct year it cold result in clearance issues.
Parts change during a models lifetime, is the OP 100% certain he has the correct ones.
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A Mk4 Golf is going to be an old car now. During its life its almost certainly had a number of components replaced and if any have been off "similar" Golfs and not from a 130TDi of the correct year it cold result in clearance issues.
Parts change during a models lifetime, is the OP 100% certain he has the correct ones.
I would hope that VW ensures that part changes are checked for interchangeability.
When I worked for a maker of engine components any design change proposed was run through reviews to ensure all versions of a specific part number were interchangeable with earlier ones: if not, a new part number would be created and service data amended to show the serial number from which the change took effect.
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Thanks for the messages. I was fairly certain I had the right part using the registration plate but as you say this does assume that over the last 17ish years the callipers haven’t been replaced with something subtly different. However from a visual comparison they also looked the same.
The spacer thought is a good point, there wasn’t one that I noticed. It could have rusted to the inside of the brake disc but I think I would have noticed.
However, the use of a spacer would be a better solution than pushing the calliper back as this would avoid shortening the amount of calliper bracket bolt holding the bracket together. It doesn’t need to move forward a lot though. Are these spacers standard items or is it a matter of using something else to do the job? Depending on the size presumably I may also have to change the wheel nuts as they may have to be slightly longer?
Thanks
Matt
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For your (and others) own safety I'd ask a local independent garage or VW specialist to have a look. Something sounds very wrong.
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Thanks for the messages. I was fairly certain I had the right part using the registration plate but as you say this does assume that over the last 17ish years the callipers haven’t been replaced with something subtly different. However from a visual comparison they also looked the same. The spacer thought is a good point, there wasn’t one that I noticed. It could have rusted to the inside of the brake disc but I think I would have noticed. However, the use of a spacer would be a better solution than pushing the calliper back as this would avoid shortening the amount of calliper bracket bolt holding the bracket together. It doesn’t need to move forward a lot though. Are these spacers standard items or is it a matter of using something else to do the job? Depending on the size presumably I may also have to change the wheel nuts as they may have to be slightly longer? Thanks Matt
Unwise to make DIY modifications to your braking system. Get new parts that fit properly.
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Are these spacers standard items or is it a matter of using something else to do the job?
Some callipers had spacers between calliper mount and hub, I was suggesting its possible they were missed out when assembling the calliper, I was NOT suggesting you get some!
As has been said, it`s safer to find out why you have the problem and fix it rather than try to bodge it and not know if its correct for the car
even if it means getting complete front callipers and discs, main dealer will be able to sort it even if it means finding the correct part numbers and buying elsewhere...
again Chassis number should get you the correct parts, only time I have ever found problems with that, is on a changeover where the maker has upgraded/changed a part and they were not always catalogued as has been said earlier.
but can be cross matched between models, which can be a pain as its time consuming but does give correct parts!
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Chassis number should get you the correct parts, only time I have ever found problems with that, is on a changeover where the maker has upgraded/changed a part and they were not always catalogued as has been said earlier.
This would seem to imply you've never had a Renault 5 (and by extension, any other Renault, or maybe any other French car?), which would be surprising.
Main dealer, given chassis number, could not tell me which of several different brake assemblies, or even which make,(Bendix, Girling, or something else I've forgotten) were likely to have been fitted.
Could have been a ploy to get my car in the workshop (in which case it failed) but I've heard it from other reliable sources.
Its a FRENCH thing, apparently..
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This would seem to imply you've never had a Renault 5 (and by extension, any other Renault, or maybe any other French car?), which would be surprising.
Not sure why it`s surprising, and no, never had any of those due to so many problems with them apart from the fact I didn`t like any of them.
Vauxhall were as bad but seemed to get better as the years went on!
it was the odd motoring shops that seemed to have problems matching parts, but the shops are none existent now, good place to discuss motors though..
In some cases it was easier to take the part in with you to get the right part, but sometimes even that didn`t work
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In some cases it was easier to take the part in with you to get the right part, but sometimes even that didn`t work
Many many years ago in Switzerland, a local garage came in to us asking for a starter motor for a mini. They had the old unit with them., and as it was an exchange item, I matched it to the new one, Identical part number, so ok.
Few months later, came back with teeth all worn out... Sent off for warranty, Claim denied as the
owner had fitted an engine from a scrappy, and fitted their own starter motor, except that the engine fitted was an old one and didn't match.
If someone comes in with the wrong part then it can be fun!
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Hi
Thanks for the thoughts. I’ve taken another look and I have realised that one side has a nut on the bolt holding the calliper to the bracket and the other side does not. It is the extra length that this nut is adding that is resulting in the nut just rubbing against the disc. Everything else (from a dimension perspective) appears to be exactly the same so my next step is to remove the bolts and work out why one side would require a nut and the other wouldn’t.
Could it be that the threads in the calliper or bracket have been stripped and they resorted to a nut and bolt? Guess I’ll find out when I take them both apart again.
Thanks
Matt
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You might have to helicoil it (or equivalent) or maybe it would be easier and more satisfactory just to replace the caliper.
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Presumably the worn disc being replaced didn't rub because it was from a different car? Perhaps with a bit of derusting with a hammer, screwdriver and carborundum wheel it can be re-used?
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Hi Thanks for the thoughts. I’ve taken another look and I have realised that one side has a nut on the bolt holding the calliper to the bracket and the other side does not. It is the extra length that this nut is adding that is resulting in the nut just rubbing against the disc. Everything else (from a dimension perspective) appears to be exactly the same so my next step is to remove the bolts and work out why one side would require a nut and the other wouldn’t. Could it be that the threads in the calliper or bracket have been stripped and they resorted to a nut and bolt? Guess I’ll find out when I take them both apart again. Thanks Matt
It might mean getting a new hub assy if the thread is stripped ?
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This would seem to imply you've never had a Renault 5 (and by extension, any other Renault, or maybe any other French car?), which would be surprising.
Not sure why it`s surprising, and no, never had any of those due to so many problems with them apart from the fact I didn`t like any of them.
Because, from the evident breadth of your experience, I assumed you'd been a general mechanic and would have worked on them, if not "had", as in owned, one. My mistake
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This would seem to imply you've never had a Renault 5 (and by extension, any other Renault, or maybe any other French car?), which would be surprising.
Not sure why it`s surprising, and no, never had any of those due to so many problems with them apart from the fact I didn`t like any of them.
Because, from the evident breadth of your experience, I assumed you'd been a general mechanic and would have worked on them, if not "had", as in owned, one. My mistake
I was a general mechanic, but never liked or worked on Renault or Fiat Citroen, I used to find when someone asked me to look at one that it was always when I had a lot of work to do, so didn`t have the time to look at them, and advised them to see another mechanic who did have time, just the way it turned out really. rather than didn`t want to
I think I spent more time working on Fords than any other car as they used to go wrong more often
I wonder if OP sorted out his calliper, be interesting to know what happened?
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I have finally been able to revisit and take the calliper apart, the issue is definitely the bolt for the calliper mounting bracket, the threads in the ‘knuckle’ (not sure if this is the right term) were stripped and the treads on the bolt themselves are a bit ropey. Nothing I can do about the stripped threads without replacing the knuckle which I don’t fancy so my plan is to replaced the bolt (as there are still some threads remaining) and then use a nut as has been done previously, just a smaller one so it doesn’t rub on the disc. However, I am struggling to work out the dimensions of the bolt to be able to buy a replacement. I would appreciate any thoughts on how to go about replacing.
Thanks
Matt
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Its called a hub carrier, I said Hub sorry, not in favour of just using a bolt and nut as they are less safe
not sure of the hub carrier price?, but personally would rather recommend changing the carrier than replacing a bolt and nut, I suspect the old one was overtightened but that doesn`t help you
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I have finally been able to revisit and take the calliper apart, the issue is definitely the bolt for the calliper mounting bracket, the threads in the ‘knuckle’ (not sure if this is the right term) were stripped and the treads on the bolt themselves are a bit ropey. Nothing I can do about the stripped threads without replacing the knuckle which I don’t fancy so my plan is to replaced the bolt (as there are still some threads remaining) and then use a nut as has been done previously, just a smaller one so it doesn’t rub on the disc. However, I am struggling to work out the dimensions of the bolt to be able to buy a replacement. I would appreciate any thoughts on how to go about replacing. Thanks Matt
Personally I think it would be better to get hold of a secondhand hub assembly and fit that. You're dealing with one of the most safety-critical components on the car.
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DP, sorry
Edited by edlithgow on 24/05/2021 at 01:45
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Could you tap it?
Or have it tapped, or helicoiled, but that might cost more than replacement.
Edited by edlithgow on 24/05/2021 at 02:06
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I have finally been able to revisit and take the calliper apart, the issue is definitely the bolt for the calliper mounting bracket, the threads in the ‘knuckle’ (not sure if this is the right term) were stripped and the treads on the bolt themselves are a bit ropey. Nothing I can do about the stripped threads without replacing the knuckle which I don’t fancy so my plan is to replaced the bolt (as there are still some threads remaining) and then use a nut as has been done previously, just a smaller one so it doesn’t rub on the disc. However, I am struggling to work out the dimensions of the bolt to be able to buy a replacement. I would appreciate any thoughts on how to go about replacing. Thanks Matt
Personally I think it would be better to get hold of a secondhand hub assembly and fit that. You're dealing with one of the most safety-critical components on the car.
New ones if the car is correct (no Date given) carriers around £40 plus fitting- possibly second hand about £40 complete, I would have thought, without fitting from scrap yard (just a thought) would be better than risking a rethread or bolt nut combi, as mentioned above
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