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Bought car last December and one of the attractions was that the previous owner had had a lot of the things fixed that were wrong with my previous one,including 7 new spheres(it's hydractive) I've always thought it was riding a bit hard.I've changed the LHM,and cleaned the filters.The accumulator sphere didn't look as new as the others so I changed that which has improved things but it still don't feel right.It does sink a bit when left sometimes.I gave it a bounce today (engine running) the rear felt O.K but the front feels a lot stiffer than my old one(non hydractive)did.After standing idle for a while the front is more or less solid and the rear is stiffer than when running(I think).It's a lovely car otherwise and I'd really like to get it running 100%.Any of you citroen experts out there got any advice please?
Edited by Pugugly on 26/04/2008 at 15:34
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The centre spheres are the ones mainly responsible for a soft ride. Check the condition by bouncing each corner, you will only have a couple of inches movement on the front in hard mode but you should have probably twice that in normal and about 3 inches and six inches on the rear. Try bouncing it after the car has been stationary for a couple of minutes and then again with the ingnition on, it should be noticibly softer. If it isn't either the centre spheres need replacing or the suspension computer is not doing its job. If one end gets softer it will almost certainly be the centre sphere at the other end.
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Just been out to the car and had a poke about.Its got 4 spheres at the back so now I am confused! They all look new so I'm pretty certain that all the spheres are OK.(less than a thousand miles since replacement) One could be faulty though I guess.I did a lot of bouncing and I would say the back is like a marshmallow and the front is like a tennis ball by comparison.The front seems to soften up a bit the more its bounced but nothing like as much as it should untill I heard a click ,height corrector I assume,and then it's almost solid but then loosens up again.I also noticed that the height corrector isn't making the regular noise I believe it should.I understand should click about every 30 seconds and the only time I heard it was once or twice when bouncing the front end.My arms ache now from all that bouncing.Hydractive on or off dosn't seem to make any difference at all.Hope it's not the computer because that sounds expensive.
HELP.
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I used to have a 95 XM with hydractive suspension, so gathered some info just in case. I would think that the Xantia system was similar. There is a diode located in each centre spheere electrovalve that has a habit of going short circuit. It cant be got at to repair, but you can modify the suspension ECU to re-locate it there. Also the power transistors in the suspension ECU goes short & overheats. These can also be replaced. See this link & check out if your unit is the same kernelpanic.dk/xmhaecu/. More information on Yahoo XM-L group. It is the pressure regulator that should click every 20/30 seconds, the height correctors shouldn't make any noise, they are just mechanical flow valves. The centre sport/normal spheers should only click when switched between normal & sport. Hope this helps.
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Thanks for that dieselnut.Now I'm really worried.I can do a lot of practical things but electrics completely baffle me.Would the fact that the pressure regulator is not clicking have any bearing on things?Are you anywhere near london,I take it you're a Professional.
Edited by isisalar on 26/04/2008 at 12:33
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I belive the pressure regulator not clicking much is a good sign. Means the system pressure is not being lost due to a low pressure resovoir sphere or leakage past a seal. I should imagine there are a few good independant Citroen specialists around London, I am in Cheshire but not car mechanic. You just have to be a jack of all trades these days to keep costs down. Check with some of the specilaist web sites like Yahoo Groups or Citroen Owners Club. I'm sure someone would know of a knowlegable independant expert in your area.
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If you can feel the firmness of the suspension change when the electo valves drop out, you dont have an electrical problem. You should be able to hear a whine of about 1khz coming from them when they are in operation. As was mentioned, there are diodes built into valve bodies which you cant replace but you can fit thhem in the ECU, I have just done mine which went o/c. To put things into perspective though, I have been running XM's for about 13 years and this is the fist time I have had diode trouble.
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Thanks for the replies.
Peter N Do you mean that I should be able to hear a whine from the center spheres area when the hydractive button is illuminated ie on..
I couldn't detect any difference in the firmness on or off.
Does the lack of clicking from the pressure regulator mean its not working?
This is all getting a bit technical for me.
Can anyone recommend a good independent specialist north lLondon /Herts.I have used some guys known as Citroen mobile based in Northampton, I think ,who come down here sometimes but they phone no.I had is not working.
Just a thought.If I swapped over the two center spheres and it reversed the problem would that indicate a faulty sphere?
Is it worth trying a system flush?
Edited by isisalar on 26/04/2008 at 18:53
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No, you won't notice any difference with the switch setting unless you are driving, as on the Mk2 version, 'sport mode' only increases the sensitivity to movement so it goes hard earlier. If its the same system as the XM, you should hear the solonoids 'clonk' followed by a continious whine when you open a door, it will then switch off again a minute or two after you shut the door, with another clonk. If the car has been standing for a few minutes but the suspension is still up, open a door, you should hear the solonoids clonk and the suspension should then be in soft mode. If you bounce it continually after closing the door you should feel it go hard after a minute or so, at the closing 'clonk' You need to be in a fairly quiet environment to hear the 'whine'.
You can try swapping the spheres although they are not identical, they are normally quite difficult to undo, but if only replaced fairly recently they shouldn't be to bad. I had the front centre one fail after less that a year, but this is unusual.
Edited by Peter.N. on 26/04/2008 at 20:35
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