My car drives for about 20 miles then the ABS & alarm set lights come on & all the dash indicators stop working but it will still drive perfectly but once I stop the engine it will not start for about 2 hrs & even then I have to hit the top of the dash board before everything comes on. I took it to a Chysler dealer but got the impression that since I was not buying a new one they couldnt be bothered, they put it on the diagnostic machine tested it & said there was nothing wrong with it & charged me £55.50p+VAT.
so I headed home & guess what happened after 20 miles? yes you have guessed it.
I got back & complained to them but all they said was bring it back & leave it with us.
which isn't very handy as I live 100 miles from a Chrsyler dealer, plus how much more are they going to fleece out of me. Having read one of your reports by BIGBUS it sounded similar so I took of the heater switch arround the radio & checked it I noticed that it had been re-wired and that all conections seemed sound so I don't think it's that.
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Think you have answered your own question hitting the top of the dash. If you remove both A trims down each side of the windscreen you can then pull up the panel that runs along the bottom of the windscreen. With that up you can get to the plug on the back of the dash. you should find if you wiggle that plug you will get the fault to come and go. If so you will probably need the circuit board out from the back of the dash and re-solder the joints where the plug goes on or have it replaced, if replaced you will need the dealer to code it and set it up.
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Thank you for such a quick reply Merlin Tec I will try what you suggest as soon as I can, which will probably this weekend weather permitting, I shall get back to you with the result of this A.S.A.P
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Hi Merlin Tec I did as you said & everything came on. I took the car for a run & when it happened I tried wiggling the plug but nothing happened so I drove home & stopped the engine turned the ignition back on & tried again & noticed if I pulled the dash plug to the left everything came back on so do I follow the instructions you gave to BIGBUS and remove the circuit board. thanks
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Hi Merlin Tec I followed your instructions & got the dash cluster out in no time, unfortunately at my age I wouldn't be able to see a crack in a plate glass window never mind a circuit board so I gave it to a neighour of mine who's a computer expert.
After I had explained the problem he said he would check it out as he gets the same problem from customers with laptop computers, so I'm waiting for the result.
While I'm writing to you no doubt you will be able to help me with another problem, I've been searching the net for Number Plate light holders & glass covers for the same vehicle but to no avail, could you tell me where I can buy these from as mine are falling apart.
The numbers on the holders are PA66+19GF & 549.01.101.61 & ZKW.Thanks again
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I can only recommend the dealer sorry.
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Hi Merlin Tec I got my dash board cluster back from my neighbour who said he couldn't find anything wrong with except it needed a clean which he did for me, I then plugged back in the cluster, re-connected the battery & switched on & nothing works on the dash board, the ABS & alarm set , cold start & handbrake lights all come but nothing on the dash. I tried starting the car which it did but the immobiliser cut in & stopped it. I tried wiggling the plug but nothing,any ideas?
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will it start with the dash unplugged?
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No the heater coil light goes out the ABS & Alarm set start flashing & it bleeps like mad.
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Hi Merlin Tec I've been wondering this trouble started after a got a shunt on the motorway & also driving on rough roads could it be a dodgy earth, & so would it do any harm if I ran a temporary earth from the back of the dashboard plug (which I assume is the black wire on the top row on the nearside) to the battery. Tonight my neighbour said he would check out the wiring but the problem is it will be dark & he could miss something.
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just unplug the heater panel as well and retry. I get a wire digram up and have a look.
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I unplugged the heater console & connected up the dash cluster but to no avail the dash panel still didn't work, just the top panel all those were lit but of course the engine would not go as the immobiliser is still on until the dash works
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funny it was off and on before the dash was cleaned and now nothing. does the miles display light up? still sounds like the cluster at fault.
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No it used to come on the first turn of the switch and then the dials on the ignition but nothing at all now. what I'll do is have another talk with my neighbour & then get back to you. thanks.
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Hi Merlin Tec I've not seen the computer boy yet but I went on the net & could get a replacement dash including circuit board I phoned the guy & he checked out the serial numbers & they match if I bought & put it in, would the car go or would I have to get the car uplifted back to chrysler to get it re-coded. It would be a pain in the neck if I had to do this as I live so far away from a dealer & it would cost a fortune. When I spoke to the guy on the phone I told him what you had said about re-coding, he said he has sold a few of these dash panels & it's the first time he's heard that. But I would rather check with you first. Thanks
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if it's new you do have to calibrate it. used sorry I don't know, I also don't know if the speedo would be correct or the mileometer. depends if you are just changing the board or the complete unit. Sorry not much help on second hand unit's as I have only every fitted new.
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Well if comes to the worst I'll try it, but I spoke to the computer boy this afternoon and showed him what you thought(I printed off a copy of our conversation) so he's taken the cluster away & will have another look at it, hopefully I'll get it back tomorrow, I'll let you know how I get on.
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Hi Merlin Tec I got the cluster back from the computer boy & he said he couldn't find any fault with it ,so I've bought that other cluster but it will not arrive until at least monday. but I was wondering if the cluster has a seperate fuse to the top panel & if so which one would it be? I ask this question because when I bought the car I didn't get a driver's manual, in fact I got no paperwork at all, when I asked the dealer about this he reckoned they had been stolen from the car.
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they suffer with melted connectors on the back of the instrument cluster and the heater controls, this inturn will corrupt the bus message, which could be causing your fault, check the connections on the back of the cluster and see if any melting has taken place.
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1
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-
2
M1 20PK
FUSED B(+)
3
-
-
4
-
-
5
-
-
6
E2 20OR
PANEL LAMPS FEED
7
Z2 20BK/LG
GROUND
8
-
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9
D2 20WT/BK
CCD BUS (-)
10
D1 20VT/BR
CCD BUS (+)
11
F11 20RD/WT
FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (ST-RUN-OFF)
12
-
-
13
Z1 20BK
GROUND
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Hi Merli Tec I got the cluster back about an hour ago plugged it in & nothing, so I connected up the lights & all the dash lights lit up & even the dimmer switch worked so I take it there's nothing wrong with the power supply to the circuit board. The computer boy said he might have disturbed the brown wire that goes from the back of the plug & connects to the dash itself is this a possibility?
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where do you live I am going from exeter to milton kynes for training on wedneday if I am passing I can pop in. I have a new circuit board under my bench I can bring with me.
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hi Merlin Tec that would have been very friendly of you unfortunately I live in the west coast of scotland & that would be some detour. I will keep struggling on as I used to be a car mechanic before the days of computers & I will not give up, which means I'll try every avenue before I'll admit defeat. I'd hoped that other cluster would have arrived today but I've been told not until tomorrow. by the way good luck with your training course.
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Hi Merlin Tec that other cluster arrived at 10 am today at 11 am "EUREKA" the car fired into life, if it wasn't for you I'd have probably stripped half the car looking for the problem, I took the car for a run & everything worked perfectly. I owe you good buddy if your ever in my neck of the woods there's a few pints waiting for you plus a bottle of malt. I'll keep looking at your page so I'll know if your up here plus if I get another problems I know who to ask. Thank you.
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Well done thank you, I am so happy for you. Thank you for the update.
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Hi Merlin Tec I don't know if it's a funny coincidence but you said you came from exeter & my car orginally came from a dealer down there F.L.S I don't know if you know them. but my real reason for contacting you is, you said the dash & heater are prone to overheating, I remember I took my car to glasgow & parked it around 8am I came back around noon & it had turn into a scorcher, I had to open all the doors it was like an oven & the top cover above the dash was really hot I couldn't put my hand on it, it was when I returned to the car about 3pm & tried to start it that I noticed the trouble with the dash. I was wondering if you think this could be the cause, so why if you agree with my theory & since you know the vehicle don't you invent or develop a heat reflector above the dash but below the top panel & patent it. you could make a few quid out of this & then flog it back to chrysler. Good luck
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Hi Melin Tec I have another problem you maybe able to help me with, I've had it since I bought the car. If I accerlerate quickly over 2000 revs & then take my foot off the pedal the engine cuts out, at first I thought it was dirty fuel filters so I renewed them but same thing kept happening I took it to chrysler but they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It's annoying & only happens now & again. the trouble is you can't bump start it, you have to switch off the the ignition & restart it with the key which isn't very handy if you have a queue of traffic behind, any ideas as I'm starting doubt my sanity?
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Sorry that's a hard one to find.
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a thought has just struck me, I worked for a firm about 12 yrs ago & we bought 2 leyland 3ton vans from auction 1 day 1 of them started giving trouble like I've got, we traced it to the injection fuel pump it was the piston that cuts off the fuel it was losing magnetic contact. we removed it from the pump & the van went perfectly unfortunately we could stop the engine unless we stalled it which didn't do the clutch any good, we bought 2 reconditioned pumps & replaced 1 in the van that was giving trouble, it went ok after that of course the other 1 did the same about 3 months later so we just replaced the pump & that cured it. so I was wondering has this problem ever happened to a voyager & since I don't know the fuel system set up, is the fuel cut off switch incorporated in the injection pump or is it a separate seleniod, plus can I buy a recondioned pump if it is in the pump?
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yes almost the same system. But yours should be fly by wire so no throttle cable so you can try the same thing. As yours is fly by wire the solenoid is only an emergency shut off as it uses the electronics on the pump to back the pump all the way off to stop the engine. This was not capable on the older ones as you have a throttle stop for idle.
I would also check the valve in the return union on the pump as if that stick you get low pressure in the pump.
Could also be the timing solenoid on the pump. So hard to tell.
Going to a Bosch service centre for info on the pump as it's a Bosch pump and you might have one closer then Chrysler dealer.
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Hi Merlin Tec this is great news I will try what you have recommended unfortunately I have to go up north for a training course mainly because I'm the Instructor & I won't be back for about 2 weeks but I'll let you know how I get on
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Hi Merlin I was wondering could you give me the bosch type and serial No as I can see the the pump but I've no idea where to find the ID plate, & I don't want to strip the car again until I get a replacement you know one out & one in, it's less hassle.
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sorry buddy can't help best I could get you is a chrysler part number.
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OK that will have to do thanks
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can I have the last 9 of your vin number so i check check.
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sorry merlin I not sure what your looking for. as I don't no what a vin no is
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Hi merlin ignore my last post I must be getting tired, its7XU132227 sorry about that.
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lol not worries we all have them days. Part number I have is 05003717AA hope this helps you and is the fault. Not a cheap guess.
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Hi Merlin Thanks much appreciated I get on to it ASAP will contact you later
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Hi very new to this forum only had my voyager 1997 3 days and already got problems hopefully ill be able to sort them out. after searching for manuals i came across this ,its a download link for the pdf manual covering all voyagers for 1997-2001. good news is its free. sorry ive butted in to this post but hope that all members will be able to download it. dont pay for a manual please. lots of sites wanting £20.00+ or $25.00 for something thats free. heres the link to the download page
www.mediafire.com/?zi6drtqhhbk
now ive downloaded it and its a full manual showing everything as well as fault codes.
i do hope that all of you benefit from my surfing for the info, by the looks of it we all may need it. regards to you all . stuart.
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Hi merlin, although i have the manual just to save me some time does anyone know why on starting my car the wiper buttons (4 of them) on centre consol) just flash fast and dont stop?? thanks
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Hi
Yes the heater needs calibration. normally only after a battery fault (flat or disconnected) You need to press and hold the top and bottom buttons on the left of the heater panel with direction set to panel. The lights should then flash alternately and if no faults should then end with just the top button flashing. Press the top button will then exit and all should be fine.
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Thanks for the info merlin and yes the lights only stopped flashing on the left hand side ie all washer light have now gone out but the air circ light and air con still flash constant , ran the test again but same again... any ideas, thanks in advance stu.
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Hi
You now need to do a cool down test (hope your air con works) heater on hot blower on then press and hold the bottom left corner button and far right button. all should start flashing again till it passes test.
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Hi merlin, please ignore my last post although i d/loaded the manual it took me 2 days to finally find the procedure for testing the air con and air circ, found the test procedure and have finally repaired the fault , kindest regards stu.
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Hi Merlin I'm just back from up north my car drove great no problems as such, so with that fuel pump costing £400 I'll just leave it the now or wait & see if her indoors or santa will buy me one. I wonder if you could tell if my car has gear oil or final drive oil you see I'm getting a growl off the final drive, but without the manual I can't tell, the engine is definately not losing oil in fact I check it weekly & it does'nt need any, could it be the wheel bearings? Thanks
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HI gasketq, download the manual for voyager at this link copy and paste hope you find what your looking for , its free, inclusive 2.4 to 3.8 incl diesel, best of look.
www.mediafire.com/?zi6drtqhhbk
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Hi stbos thanks for the info. I downloaded the manual unfortunately I started printing it off only to realise there was nearly 2000 pages so needless to say I stopped but I still haven't found a sort of diagnosing page which might have said why I was getting a noise off the drive shafts. Still I put on a new front bearing on the right side and it didn't seem as bad but these things aren't cheap it cost me £250 to get it done apparently you have to buy the whole hub. I will just have to replace the other one at a later date.
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hi gasketq, when you download the manual first save it to your hard drive then open the manual up in PDF as i have done plenty of trouble shooting and remedies , hope this helps. stu.
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Hi to all and a happy new year. Thanks stbos I did down load to my hard drive after I realised what was happening, My voyager seems to be behaving itself and just as well as it's due the dreaded M.O.T. soon, hope you got all your problem's sorted.
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