sounds very poor. Ours is a 53 plate and turns in around 50mpg.
What mileage and when was it last serviced?
I dont think the berlingo has a dmf (I hope not! It was one of the things I looked into and was told not)
the shudder could well be a maf sympton.
Edited by adverse camber on 19/06/2009 at 13:21
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adverse camber: The car has covered 70k from new, has full service history and has obviously been well cared for all its life.
It was last serviced about 3,700 miles ago in January.
I too hope this isn't afflicted with a DMF, as they would appear overall to be the work of Satan himself. ;-)
In my experience of VW MAFs failing, they tend to show their hand so to speak more by way of erratic running in terms of torque kicking in and out randomly etc, and this seems fine overall.
It would be great if this was down to a duff MAF though, as it's a five minute job to do :-D
Incidentally, the trip back with it last weekend from where I bought it back to home was over 500 miles which I did in one hit with one fuel stop... overall, the car seemed fine, it just disappointed me in terms of economy and torque on the steeper hills.
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Glowplug: Hi there. Having bought this after a long line of VW TDIs, I'm very familiar with MAF failures and what happens if you try to save money by buying an aftermarket replacement. ;-)
From what I've read up on these, the MAFs on PSA stuff tend to be more reliable than the Bosch ones that tend to be found on VWs.
The other day I cleaned the MAF and also changed the fuel filter, and this seemed to make a positive difference with regards to how willing the car is to rev above 3k.
I've also read in another HDI related thread on here about there being a filter that can block on the high pressure fuel pump, so I'm actively trying to seek out info on where exactly this is located, as a brief look at the pump earlier didn't show anything obviously filter like.
The car seems willing enough to rev, always starts and as I mentioned before, doesn't seem to smoke... it just seems poor in terms of economy, and the amount of torque up steeper hills in top gear, although to be fair, this may be down to me expecting more from it due being used to VAG TDIs.
EML light is fine and as described by you above.
I'll unplug the MAF when I nip out presently and see if there's any improvement...
Thanks for the suggestions so far. :-)
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I've just got back from a short trip with the MAF unplugged... and no difference unfortunately.
The 'shuddering' as it were occurs in fourth gear at around 30mph *sometimes*, if you lift off the throttle and then reapply it.
My main concern is the economy... a bit more grunt up hill is a secondary consideration, which I'll get sorted by way of a remap once I'm certain the car is running as it should be.
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Cambelt?
Has it been replaced?
Has it been replaced properly? Could it be incorrectly fitted - a tooth out pehaps?
Could it have broken a cambelt and you're experiencing the results?
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bathtub tom: Cambelt hasn't been replaced, no.
Starts and runs too well for it to be a jumped tooth.
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They do jump teeth and still run reasonable well. In fact they jump teeth quite often.
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Given how it starts and stops like every other HDI I've ever driven, I really don't think it's a jumped tooth on the cambelt.
Especially given how temperamental HDIs can be at the best of times, but we'll check it all the same in due course just to be sure.
Does anyone have any idea where the fuel filter on the high pressure pump is on these?
Apparently there is a small filter *after* the main fuel filter, which can become blocked and cause performance / economy to drop off.
Also, can anyone recommend a good 'VAG-COM' equivalent for PSA stuff, and can I used the OBD-II lead I have that I use with VAG-COM, to interrogate PSA vehicles, once I've installed a diagnostics program designed to work with these?
TIA.
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I changed the fuel filter last week, and this seemed to improve the way in which the engine revved above 3k.
Yesterday, I filled the car up and it appears to have averaged 40mpg on a weeks worth of mainly stop start short journeys around town and with me not being particularly soft with the throttle, so a definite improvement.
I also had the car scanned for fault codes yesterday and ones relating to the MAF and EGR came up.
One new MAF and a disabled EGR later, the car seems to have a bit more torque in the mid-range, and if you do bury your foot, it now revs far more keenly beyond 4k, so all being well I should now be seeing economy more in line with what I was hoping for from it.
One problem which has now arisen is that it appears being hooked up to a diagnostics machine has recalibrated the fuel gauge to think that just below 7/8s full (which is where the fuel level was at when the garage plugged the machine into it) equates to a full tank.
The gauge still works and today has dropped from 7/8s at a rate you'd expect it to have done, but is obviously now not reflecting a true picture of how much fuel is in the tank.
I'm therefore presuming this is one of the joys of owning a CAN-BUS car - is there anything I can say to the garage concerned to A: back up my theory something has happened when they plugged in the diagnostics machine (Snap-On Solus I believe), and B: tell them what needs to be done if they plug it back in again, to put it right?
My personal theory is that the diagnostics machine was talking to the ECU when they unhooked it and whilst it was maybe calibrating the fuel gauge, or that maybe they physically disconnected the machine from the car without first breaking the link electronically like you'd perhaps disconnect a USB stick from a PC via Windows virtually before physically removing it from the machine.
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Reference, the fuel gauge problem, before you go too far down the route of programming corruption, I suggest that when you next require fuel, you fill the tank fully. You may find that the system re-adjusts itself. (This is a hunch based on my observation of how the fuel gauge behaves on my Xsara Hdi)
regards,
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Ok, will try filling it up again, but I guess I didn't make it clear enough in my last post that I filled the car up just after the car was hooked up to the diagnostics machine, which is when the problem first became apparent and was then compounded when the gauge, as I said, then moved as it should do, just with it being just over an eighth of a tank lower than it should have been.
Dontcha just love modern cars... ;-)
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