8v Estate disc front, drum rear, 89000miles, handbrake 4 clicks to fully on.
I've had this problem for a while now, the brakes work but you have to push the pedal a long way down before anything happens! Stamping on the pedal in an emergency it stops as it should & inline but if you're just wanting to slow up a bit your foot goes down, down, down, down.... ahh, she's slowing now...
It sails through the MOT, though the testers always remark on the travel.
Last service, carried out by an independent garage, they replaced pads,shoes and flushed/bled the fluid (twice!) but the long travel remained.
I've found that before starting the engine (handbrake on) if I press the pedal down slowly until I can't push it any further, then slowly release it & repeat this 3 or 4 times, when I start the engine & drive off the brakes work the instant I touch the pedal with plenty of "feel" to them. This lasts about 60miles (2 days commute) towards the end of which the pedal travel gradually gets longer until it's back to where it started.
Also with the engine off & handbrake released if I quickly push the pedal down I hear a "clunk" noise which seems to be coming from somewhere between the rear wheels or certainly from the rear of the car.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
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It sounds as though you have some air in the system, the first thing to do would be bleed the brakes. Other possibilities are the master cylinder or the rear auto adjusters not working but if your hand brake only comes up the normal ammount that would seem to rule them out. Is there any difference between the pedal travel depending whether the handbrake is on or off?
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Worn master cylinder and seals;the seals work when you tread hard on the brakes but otherwise only operate when you get down to a less worn area of the cylinder.
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i have to agree with jc2.master cyl seals.
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hi rst,
With the engine off if you pump the brake pedal do you get a hard pedal? If you hold the pedal and start the engine the pedal should slowly sink. If you can get a hard pedal with the engine off - it shouldn't need bleeding. If it sinks when the engine starts - sounds like the servo is OK.
Did the garage that bleed it open the load-compensation-valve to the back before they bled it?
A few check's come to mind:
1) Have you got a tank full of brake fluid? (to the MAX mark?)
2) I'd check the adjusters on the drum brakes at the rear - you might find they're at the limit - hence the long travel - not sure why it gets better as you say though.
3) Check the brake drum wear - similar to above
4) Check for the flexible brake pipes (in the wheel arches) - check no bulging etc
I've changed the master cylinder on mine - still the same problem as yours - but putting new drums on soon as the drum brake adjustment is near/at its limit.
Let us know how you get on
James
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I've had a similar expereince with my Avensis 1.8 petrol (2007) when I bought it from maiin dealer last year with just 5k on the clock. I'm assuming it's air in the system and will find out when I get Mr T to service it next month. In the meantime, I've managed to live with the spongy brake pedal by squeezing the pedal twice in quick succession when the firmness comes back on the second push. SWMBO won't drive it though as it scares the wits out of her in traffic.
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Thanks for all your suggestions.
Peter.n. There's no difference in travel between handbrake on or off.
Jcz. Have since posting on here read other reports of worn master cylinder seals & also that there are no seal repair kits so I guess that means a whole new part.
Javalin. Yes all works as it should re the hard pedal/sinking pedal engine start.
No idea whether they opened LCV, will ask them. Is it something they should know about? they are an independent not a VW specialist.
1) Yes. fluid level constant. ie: no leaks
2) & 3) Will get them to do this. If at the limit is it just a matter of re-setting them or does it mean new drums? I've already had new shoes fitted.
4) as above
Think I may opt for new master cylinder, seems good place to start.
It's been like this since I bought it 3yrs ago with 50,000miles on it (one owner, used as second car) in every other respect it's like a brand new car!
Thanks once again for all your help.
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hiya
re the LCV - yes they should as its standard feature on drum brake cars.
>Think I may opt for new master cylinder, seems good place to start.
I think you're wasting money there.
>or does it mean new drums
i'll let you know how mine goes if you want? I've got new drum's on order - should be able to do this weekend, or early next week. If your adjusters are at/near the limit i'd expect this to solve it.
Let me know how you get on thou.
James
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Update - new drums didn't completely cure the longish-pedeal problems for me at least. Adjusters were not at the end of the travel. Brakes seem more responsive though.
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Hi,
Thanks for letting me know. Car is going in for main service/cam belt change in three weeks time at a different garage, couldn't book it into my usual one on the day I wanted, mentioned the problem & what I (you!) think it might be & they're going to check it out.
Will report back then.
Thanks for all your help.
rst.
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