Hi folks,
My 6 wouldn't start this morning - it nearly fired up the first time and went rapdily downhill after <6 attempts. I now get virtually no response at all, except for some of the dials sweeping.
When a similar thing happened to my Focus it turned out to be a duff battery - I've just checked the battery in the 6 and it's reading 11.89V - shouldn't that be enough ?
The central locking seems to be working so that hasn't got sluggish yet. The dials illuminate, but it's not possible to get the stereo on.
I've not used it for a week - any ideas ?
Cheers.
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I've just checked the battery and it's reading 11.89V -
Is that the voltage at rest, or while cranking the engine over?
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That's the voltage at rest Dave - the engine isn't turning over now.
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I've just found this thread which may be relevent :
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=58290
The OEM battery in my Focus lasted for about 8 years and twice the mileage, so I'm surprised that this one may be showing signs of failing already.
The Mazda 6 manual talks about topping up the battery cells with distilled water, however there are no obvious max or min marks so I don't know what level is acceptable and I'm reluctant to start diluting the contents if it's not required. Seems a bit old-fashioned - even my 1989 Vauxhall Cavalier had a sealed battery !
I've put the battery on to charge now, so we'll see if that helps.
Any thoughts or comments still appreciated.
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That battery is flat charge it up to 12.7 + and try it now then check charging system and have the battery fully checked.
My 06 astra lasted 18 months on a genuine vx battery with 18k on clock just goes to show there is duff ones.!
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there are no obvious max or min marks so I don't know what level is acceptable
The rule of thumb I always worked to was to ensure the tops of the plates were submerged. If they were, all was well, if they weren't, top up until they were. I don't recall ever having a battery with MIN MAX indicators.
My 8 year old, 144,000 mile Volvo S60 is still on its original battery.
Edited by DP on 18/05/2009 at 11:29
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OK - I charged it up to 12.5V and it started first time without a problem. It seems that extra half a volt makes all the difference !
It's now reading between 14.1 - 14.2V when the engine is running - I'll keep an eye on the voltage inbetween runs to see if it's dropping off quickly and will get the battery checked if so.
The car will get used daily from now on, but it does make me concerned about leaving it for longer periods in the future (holidays for example).
Thanks for all your comments and advice.
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Pop into a car accessories shop or Halfords and they will do a 10 second check that will the state of the battery and it's capacity and cranking current capability. Regards Peter
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Mikej,
I had the same problem with my '6. The battery often struggled to start the car and the dials would sweep all the way across. I did nothing about until it wouldn't start and discovered the battery wasn't a sealed one and the electrolyte level was below 'low'. topped it up, charged it, all ok for a month then it gave up the ghost one cold March morning. Car was 3.5 yrs old then.
Bought a new Varta sealed one from motor factors (£50) and no strange starting issues at all now; starts better than ever.
I too wondered why Mazda use some non-sealed battery.
So my advice is that it's a warning sign; ditch the OEM one and get an aftermarket sealed one.
Battery is a 'strange' size and clamp is on top, so you can't just get the largest battery which would fit in the tray; the height has to be right else it won't be held in properly.
hope that helps ?
cheers,
Stu
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6 year old battery in my Passat died on Sunday, a bit sluggish to start in the afternoon and flat as a pancake by evening. Charged it up overnight and it struggled to start the car an hour later.
New battery yesterday and started fine this morning. Sometimes they just go, I daresay a plate inside breaks or something and generates an enormous internal resistance.
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It used to be that that the 'paste' on the plates broke off, either due to vibration or overheating. It then gathered at the bottom of the battery as a sort of muddy silt which then shorted the plates out and caused the death of the battery. Technology has probably come on a bit since then but that used to be the explanation.
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Thanks for the additional comments.
I never did anything else to the battery other than charge it that one time and it's been fine since, so it looks like simply leaving it for two weeks was enough to let the voltage drop off just enough so that it wouldn't start.
I have taken to disconnecting my iPod whenever I leave the car now as a precaution, as I think it gets trickle-charged via the AudioLink unit for some time after the car is turned off.
I do have some distilled water on stand-by just in case, however I think I'll probably swap it for a sealed battery if it gives me any more problems in the future.
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