A few weeks ago I managed to let the old Morris overheat and boil dry. After it cooled down and I topped up the water she was running fine but then after going a couple of miles she emptied out all the water through the radiator overflow, I believe. I was advised that this was a classic case of a blown cylinder head gasket.
I got a gasket kit and changed all the top end gaskets and for a week or so everything seemed to be fine but, I checked the oil yesterday and it seemed a bit high, considering the various oil leaks she has, then I checked the radiator and there was no water visible. I took off the oil filler cap and it had white sludge on it. With the engine running there was a slight water leak from the corner of the cylinder head at the gasket, just under the tie-rod. It had leaked there when I boiled the engine and before I changed the gasket.
Do I have a cracked cylinder head or have I blown another gasket?
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 15/05/2009 at 00:44
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Have you checked the operation of the thermostat?
It may be worth giving the head a light skim to make sure it's perfectly flat before trying again. Before starting it, use a cooling system pressure tester to make sure the system is leak tight.
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Water is definately getting into the oil system and the most likely cause is via the cylinder head gasket. What material was the cylinder head gastic replacement made of ?
I agree with NC, check if the head and engine block are perfectly flat, measured from several angles, if either surface if not perfectly flat then it needs skimming.
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I will check out the gasket material when I get home from work, if I can find any info on the packing it came in.
I am wondering if I used the correct torque settings on the cylinder head bolts. I remember struggling through my manuals to find a specific reference to the torque settings but I believe I used 45 ft/lbs.
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In the past,tho' not on this engine,I've had to have the block skimmed as well.
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Head skim and pressure check. Did you refill the engine when it had cooled right down. ? where did you get 45 fl/lbs from, I'm thinking 60/70, Morris Minor Club can help you out there. www.morrisminoroc.co.uk
Regards Peter
Edited by Peter D on 15/05/2009 at 09:29
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Did you retorque after running the engine up to temperature?
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The more I think about it 70 was for the head nuts on a austin cambridge. the A series may be as low as 45 ft/lbs and re-torqued after 100 miles. Regards Peter
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I have taken the head off and I cannot see any visible problems with the gasket. The gasket appears to be metal covered, copper coloured but I'm not sure what it is made of.
I will be getting the head skimmed this week and maybe put it back together again next weekend. Ther is no problem getting gaskets for the old Moggy but is there any specific type of cylinder head gasket I should get?
I would also appreciate any suggestions for replacing and flushing the white sludgy oil before I start the car again.
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In the old days they would take off the rocker cover and wash the white stuff off with petrol and then let it dry. Brush the petrol on to the white stuff (all over actually) and then wipe off, that way you don't need to use as much petrol unless you have a large tray available then use it to flush ensuring the environment is safe. If you do use petrol ensure you don't breath in the vapour. Pour the used petrol into a can and ensure it is safely disposed.
The alternative and safer method is to use a mixture of hot water and washing up liquid and scrub and then let it dry thoroughly before replacing. Then after fitting the cover (note - a new rocker gasket may be needed to prevent oil leakage) you can remove the sump cover and clean the inside of the sump but you'll then need to fit a new sump gasket although they are easy to make and obtain so that's not a worry. Next empty the oil filter and fit a new oil filter, you can put some fresh oil into the oil filter before fitting as it aids oil circulation when the engine is next started. Finally fill up with new oil.
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