The rear Brakes on the Bike aren't feeling very sharp.
Is it possible for brakes to partially sieze in such a way that braking is only slightly worse?
What should I use to clean the pistons? Is there anywhere else they bind?
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Parp, Parp!
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Frequently the calipers start to seize on their mounting bolts(particularly if they're single-sided calipers.ie. only one piston).Take the mounting bolts off,on which they're supposed to slide and clean/lightly grease.
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Frequently the calipers start to seize on their mounting bolts(particularly if they're single-sided calipers.ie. only one piston).Take the mounting bolts off,on which they're supposed to slide and clean/lightly grease.
Will do. I reckon that they must be ok though 'cos I changed the pads a year ago and I'm pretty free with the coppesslip!!!
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Parp, Parp!
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Had to do my Suzuki fronts at least once a year.
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Had to do my Suzuki fronts at least once a year.
Could well be the answer then!
Thanks.
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Parp, Parp!
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I don't know what it is with Yam back brakes but they never seem to work properly after a couple of years, even with new seals. I stopped using the brake on my FZR600 after a couple of years cos it used to bind. I had the bike ten years from new, and rebuilt the brake once, but no joy. Buy an AP Lockheed rear caliper :-)
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Well I took both front and back appart in situ.
Couldn't get to the pistons but did clean the mounting pins and give them a good old going over with coppaslip. There's large dents in the rear pin. Literally metal missing.
None the less everything seemed free and yet the back still intermittantly *seems* to work much better. And if the back's *really* as sharp as it occasionally feels the front must be v. poor.
Another factor to take into account is that I only use my little finger and the one next to it on the front brake so I can always cover the brake even when I'm on the gas. Grabbing a handfull with 4 fingers nearly had me off the front.
Which makes me wonder how much of this is imagination and getting used to the Divvy's feeble braking.
What's wrong with a drum rear FFS.
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Parp, Parp!
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If the pin is damaged then change it! Or preferably the pair!
The brake operation relies on the pads moving freely on the pin and the brake will either be irregular on application or will stick partially on and wear the pads out.
On my bike the front brake pins need cleaning every two or three months during the winter
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If the pin is damaged then change it! Or preferably the pair!
Will do.
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Parp, Parp!
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>> If the pin is damaged then change it! Or preferably >> the pair!
Postage was more than the pins!
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Parp, Parp!
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The problems on the pins(Suzuki)was probably the seals(O rings) at the ends.
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Unless the pistons themselves are siezed that's not the problem.
Either it's in my head or it's the only other thing I can think of.
The discs front and back are shiney like glass. I don't really want to buy new discs.
Can sand paper or some such be used to scuff them up a bit? What should be used?
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Parp, Parp!
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A spot of fine emery,Ford in the past sold "glazebuster" pads which were a std. pad with a thin layer of emery on the face.You fitted them and after a couple of applications,the emery was gone and so was the glaze.
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A spot of fine emery,Ford in the past sold "glazebuster" pads which were a std. pad with a thin layer of emery on the face.You fitted them and after a couple of applications,the emery was gone and so was the glaze.
Any technique paticularly?
Rub round in circles or straight line inside out?
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Parp, Parp!
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"After a couple of applications,the
emery was gone and so was the glaze.
Any technique particularly?
Rub round in circles or straight line inside out?"
Toad - You *are* joking, aren't you? What shape are your wheels/discs? Too much braking on the M25 turned them square ....!?
Jack
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The charitable conclusion is that he has mis-read the posts.
The uncharitable one is that Broadmoor is one patient short. ;-).
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A google search on "glazed discs brake pads" turns up lots of useful pages on brake problems including motorbikes with glazed discs and how to remedy it and prevent it re-occuring
I.
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I was told not to use copaslip on the pins of sliding calipers nor on the pistons because the rubber seals didn't like it. (Think I read something about in in riDe a year or so ago. I've use 'silicone' grease - a white, very high melting point grease in these areas (bit on the pricey side).
I found on the Yam that easing the pistons out a bit, giving them a wipe with a touch of brake fluid and then pushing them back in made a world of a difference to the action. A set of seals would cost lots more than a caliper of a low milage scrapper.
Martin
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Martin 123. Thanks mate. Too late though - coppa-slipped 'em already.
Prolly not the end of the word 'cos diRe is almost always innaccurate.
Gave them a good rub with a *very* fine grade emery last night. Took the shine off a *bit* but untested on the road as yet. Might see what other sites say and try a harsher grade.
Pistons is the next thing I'll look at. To be honest I'm wondering if this lack of braking quality is all in my head.
BW & UJ. No idea what that's all about.
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Parp, Parp!
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"BW & UJ. No idea what that's all about"
Toad - That's all right then, because that's *exactly* what we were trying to tell you!
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I took off the caliper last night.
With the pads out it's possible to *fully* depress the lever without the pistons popping out. Surely this can't be right.
With the lever fully depressed the pads move maybe 5 millimeters out the when it's released they spring back maybe 4.
That can't be right can it?
It would be possilbe to 'pump' the pistons through the full range of their movement. (I didn't I don't want to do a full rebuild)
What's the problem? Air in the system or siezed pistons? I've trid to clean them with brake fluid.
I can't shift the pads back into the cylinders but this may be because the bleed nipples should be open for that operation. (Sunday night - no clear plastic pipe ;-) )
Will bleed tonight and see what happens.
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Parp, Parp!
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This is a bit like talking to myself but:
Tried to clean the pistons. They are in no way smooth. One has a rusty patch. I freed them to the point there they moved easily with a large pair of pliers but still can't move them with my hand.
Am now bleeding the brakes. There was lot's of air in them before but no obvious sign of leakage. It strikes me that the rusty patch on the rear caliper *must* leak.
Am still hoping for the best. May well need to get new pistons and an overhaul kit.
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Parp, Parp!
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