Peugeot 306 td. Had a problem with the clutch, lost sensible use over night, couldn't engage 1st and reverse, usual suspects, so changed cable to no avail, thinking becouse the clutch arm is very loose, maybe bushes worn top and bottom inside housing? Clutch is now smelling! Wanting to drop box for a look and I'm told it'll come clean out the bottom without lowering subframe/removing wishbone n/s? Can that be done? It's gonna be a toss up, me or the garage! Many thanks
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quite an easy box to drop. i remove the wishbone as it gives you a little bit more arm room and it's only a couple of bolts. the o/s driveshaft can be a pain to remove the bearing seizes in but can be solved with a hammer and drift. whilst on do the driveshaft oil seals.. lining up the release fork can be a nuisance when refitting. the whole job can easily be done in a day.
chris
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That's encouraging, thankyou. The release fork issue will hopefully become more understandable when i gauge the insides. Cheers Chris
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Sounds as though the thrust bearing has broken up - I'm just doing one now on an XM - yours should be a lot easier!
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MOST IMPORTANT:
As you remove the box you HAVE to pull the dowell pin and spring off the clutch lever or the lever will foul the vgearbox and the thrust leaves will not allow the box to come off.
The shaft has to be able to turn through 90 dgrees ACW to releas as Chris showed me a month ago.
Firts time back on was on workshop floor this time in car degree of difficulty is high and gearbox is awkward and heavy so has to be jacked/lifted.
I dont think jack is enough to lift in by yourslef so I used an endless chain and changed the position of the pickup point twice using convenient large holes in back of box.
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Hi Chris: I just had same problem with my project.
A loud Rasping sound coming from left side of vehicle which goes away when you put foot on clutch.
As for the time 5 hours. Well I am doing something very wrong with my attempts as I am grounded trying to get it back in.
1/. I could not get the stud out top of gear box so it fouls the subframe going in.
2/. Did not know about wishbone.
3/. had problems taking out rhs drivers drive shaft from the carrier / suport bracket.
But got it out OK without any damage and using the neat dowell that came with the new clutch plate I aligned the disc and pressure plate with the rear hole in crankshaft.
5/. Was surpised to find that peugeot do not use a spiggot bearing.
First attempt at putting gearbox back in the forks jumped out and ended up between thust bearing and gearbox front bearing.
So carefully suspended tthe box from an endless chain picking it up offset like and that allowed me to lift it at an angle to get the diff housing past the wishbone.
Then as I had trouble getting the stud/dowell on back of box past the subframe I did a wiggle and twist and mad sure this time I had the forks into the thrust bearing accurately.
So now I am at the stage where the front spline is into the disc and as best I can feel I have the forks engaged in the thrust slots and a very slight back and forth motion left but I am a good 1/2 inch away from the bell housing dowells and cannot start the bolts.
Looking under he car I can see the flywheel/ring gear so I know its not aligged correctly.
I am using a jack and endless chain and the whole car is on my hoist and whats the song say "even with the doors off we were getting no-where and so" We had another cuppa tea.'
In this case I am sleeping over night and will try again tomorrow.
I may try taking off the wishbone however the gearbox is aligned and the spline is in, I guess at the back its the shaft foulig on the crankshaft hole, though I am surprised is not self aligning.
I will try my loor jack under the pan and remove the rear support mount though I will have to be careful not to drop the engine back to far as I might strain some of the hoses.
One big problem unlike rear well cars is that I cant turn the tailshaft with it in gear and confirm the spline is locked in place.
At this stage I can turn the flywheel/ring gear by screw driver and its not fouling so i am pretrty sure that the forks are correctky located in the carrier of the thrust bearing.
I just HOPE HOPE haaving read the Haynes book that its not my front gearbox bearing that was scratchy and noisy if it is and i have done all this for nothing I will be most disappointed.
I would say my level of expertise at gearboxes is high I have done Toyota and datsun in car and Suzuki but never as hard as this frog thing.
So allow a day 8 hours.
In the morning I will go out with a morning cuppa and in the light of day it will be like a knife through butter and the splien will go all the way in right??
Edited by stevegee on 05/07/2008 at 18:21
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On the road by 400pm started at 0800.
Trick in the end was to fasten the rear mount with flat washer and then slowly lift the centre of the gearbox until faces were parallel, then slowly lever box in with bar and get one bolt started.
rest was easy.
went and got hex headed long bolts which are far easier to do up than those dastardly hex headed things.
Clutch is lo softer than original and steerign is better as I did the lower ball joints.
I reckon 8 hours minimum to do the job and at least two jacks.
One to get the box up into place with pinion housing.
cant see how taking the wishbone off helps as that chassis protrusion fouls the box anyway.
Interested to know ho you adjust the clutch cable in the 1.9 XD9TE.
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Are'nt they self adjusting cables??
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steve sounds like you've had a right job of it, from reading your posts id guess you had the clutch out slightly, easily done even with the best aligning tools (unless you can use an old cut down shaft). my point for removing the wishbone is it allows you some more arm space to work in, not so much space to move the box in, i find the box is a reasonable weight once you get it up off the floor, if not an assistant above with a decent tow rope is all you'd need.
chris
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