over 416 Honda engine oil & filter change plus spark plugs
oil 10/40 spark plugs Bosch super 4
mileage 100k and regular serviced
jul 07
feb 08 flat battery started with battery of another car, left to idle with bonnet open .
Rover driven for 5 mins starts to hesitate on way to petrol station.
Fuel added drive to vacum car* idle lumpy* cuts out wont start, battery goes flat trying to restart. Wait 20 mins car restarts first time but misfireing/ black smoke.
Check distributer cap has water & corrosion in it , clean wd40 etc .
Car runs well for one week ,then turns over not starting even with help of another car.
Cap and rotar changed for unipart GDC 492, turning over still not starting !!
HELP!
{brief summary of what you're asking added to header}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 21/02/2008 at 00:35
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The ignition module and coil are contained inside the distributor unit. Both are available as separate items. There are also three inductive pickups (some models only have two). One is an RPM sensor, one is a TDC sensor, and I forget the other one. They very rarely fail in any case, and even if they did, the RPM sensor is the only one that will prevent it from running. All are very simple to check out. Crank the engine. If the tacho needle wanders then the module and the pickup are working. You can check them out properly, and I'll explain how to do it if you wish, but this is a fairly reliable quick and easy test.
Check the coil for any signs of burning or tracking. This sounds more likely to be your problem, and might be worth renewing. It is secured by four screws. Cranking the engine with the tacho needle wandering will indicate that the coil is switching, but does not prove the coil is serviceable.
Ignition modules do fail quite commonly on these, but they to tend to either work or they don't, without any in-between.
Another common problem area is the fuel pump relay which is behind the centre console on the passenger side. Switch on the ignition and listen to the fuel pump priming for about 1.5 seconds. As long as it does every time then that's ok. If it does not, and the pump also doesn't run when you crank it, or it does sometimes but not others the very likely cause is the relay. You can re-solder the dry joints if you're careful. I've done it perfectly satisfactorily many times, but if in doubt replace it. Do not bridge the relay other than for testing only. It can be potentially dangerous to drive in this condition, as you will nave no emergency fuel pump cut-off in the event of an accident......
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Ignition modules do fail quite commonly on these but they to tend to either work or they don't without any in-between.
I was in my brother in law's 416 when his went, and I can confirm that. No misfire, no roughness or any other warning. One second it was driving perfectly, the next it was just like someone had turned the key to off. Dead as a dodo. Wouldn't even fire until the igniter module was replaced.
Cheers
DP
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If not the ignitor module then the main relay - check out the links here:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=39...0
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Below is a link to a site all about PGM-Fi main/pump relays. This bloke's obviously got far too much time on his hands, but every word in here matches my experience of these systems. Well worth a look if you've got a Rover with a Honda engine, or indeed a Honda.......
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
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Hello Railroad DP SaabFanatic
arrrggghhhhh!!!!
Just lost half hours worth of typing * makes note- cut n paste from saved text document*
Summary: No faults this morning five normal starts
Battery 12.4v in morning / 14.4v with engine running
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Sounds like classic PGM-FI Main Relay problems to me - sometimes the dry joint's making contact, sometimes it isn't. Resoldering guide here:
www.marklamond.co.uk/tech-honda/pgm-fi/main-relay/...m
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