The wife's 306 1.9d is poorly, spewing oil and water out of the expansion bottle. My first thoughts were that the head and or gasket was pooped, or even the block cracked, but we had the oil cooler changed and it was fine for a week or so but is now back to spewing oil and water everywhere. It would seem that there is no one in York who wants to look at it. (The oil cooler was done by a friend who is terminally ill so I don't feel like mithering him with it again)
Now what I would like to know is he costs involved in the following:
Fitting another engine
Having the head taken off, pressure tested and refitting.
Many Thanks
Drew
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It certainly doesn't sound in the best of health! If the oil cooler has been changed, then my thoughts would turn to a failed head gasket- unless the new oil cooler is faulty or has been fitted incorrectly. I would get the oil cooler checked again before jumping to conclusions. Failing that, it could be the head gasket but on these engines, the usual way of things is for the head gasket to fail between a combustion chamber and the coolant passages, resulting in coolant being lost through pressurisation- rarely do they fail oil to coolant, unless it has completely gone then it's likely that both could be happening.
Get the oil cooler checked again first though.
Martin
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Thanks for that Martin, it is indeed food for thought.
Is it possible that the engine may need re bleeding, would an air lock cause similar problems????
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in my experience of diesels, many, if not most .heads crack at high miles. There is no cure, but a new head. Could be the gasket , need to take the head off to look. It will not be a simple cure. Is it worth it?, only you can say
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I am in Aussie and i just bought a 1.9 XU9DTE for $2600 with 70,000 km.
if I send the core back I get $400 deposit back freight included.
In Aust there are very few XTDt engines at wreckers.
I have chosen a D8A in favour of the DHY which seems to blow crankshafts.
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the problem is, headgasket failure is normally a secondary failure caused by the failing of another component leading to overheating so you will also need to have the first problem sourced and fixed.
id doubt very much it's an airlock, although you could try to bleed it as it's easy enough. put the heater on to full hot, get a 2 litre bottle, cut the bottom off, remove the rad cap, put the bottle neck into the rad neck, then fill the bottle up with a hose. then open the radiator bleed nipple (right side of rad, just twists anticlockwise, not all rads have them) until the water runs out with no bubbles close nipple, then the thermostat bleed nipple, it's in a rubber pipe next to the fuel filter (black container on the right), again until no bubbles in water. then lastly the heater bleed nipple, which is at the top near the black scuttle panel (black panel under wipers.) there'll be two rubber pipes, just bove is another screw out nipple, again bleed until no bubbles. you may need to fill up the bottle more than once.
id say your better off having your engine repaired rather than replaced as then it can be looked over whilst it's stripped and new valve stem seals fitted and the shims adjusted, as for cost book time is near 14 hours so plus parts your looking at around £900 based on £200 parts including fix original problem and £50 an hour labour. but as said earlier have a garage check the oil cooler first. unfortunately you won't find many garages wanting to do this job as it's a pain and time consuming for them.
chris
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actually ive just checked again and the time is 8.5 hours for just doing the headgsaket, but if i was having it done id want the head stripped and rebuilt with new seals etc.
id also look at having a new timing belt and waterpump fitted whilst there on as they have to be removed anyway so that'd be another £80 or so.
chris
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Engine is in and running and I used a fair few of the nuts and bolts off the old one.
Items not mentioned here that I had to do were machine the flywheel which had burned slightly and fit a new pressure plate and clutch plate.
Exhaust engine pipe gasket.
Rear heater hoses replaced.
Lower radiator hose replaced.
thermostat.
Cost on the road about $3000
Car cost $1500 so I have a run about for under $5000 AU which sell for $8000- to $14000.
QED.
Rebuilding the engine would have been a waste of time.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 03/06/2008 at 13:34
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The prices of your cars seem incredible, a 'mundane' car in the Uk is pretty well worthless far less than a repair after 7 years, after 10 it becomes a joke.
A 2003 Mondeo would cost £3K .
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The price of EU imports eflects their value/worth.
check www.tradingpost.com.au tos ee what vehciles change hands for.
I chose to buy this 306 XtDt because no one wanted it and it represented a challenge.
Its value or worth is debatable given our Diesel pump price has hit $1.80 per litre but I chose to take on the project as I enjoy a challenge and dont just hand cars over to a garage to repair.
By comparison to EU vehicles JAP Crap drops in price rapidly as does Korean.
The notion of a 306 XtDt which is a pretty rare model here attracted me due to its log legs and good fuel economy and the huge distances we drive here compared with the village hopping you guys do.
North from where I live the nearest service station is 140 km away and closest cheap gas to the North West is up near Adelaide at 400 km plus so a long legged rocket seemed like a good project.
Only time will tell if my brain matches my results.
The quotes I am getting for simple items like corner lights ($70 each) Fog Lights $160 per corner are ludicrous.
Could not even source a fuel stop solenoid here and am buying one in from UK.
The windscreen guy arrives tomorrow to fit a new screen so I am broke until next payday.
But at least I own a PUG and it cost me half the price of buying one off the shelf.
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